Early 20th Century Art Jewelry at Forbes Galleries

Morning Glory Brooch/Pendant, Marcus & Co., American c. 1900, Plique a jour, gold. Photo coutesy of Siegelson Inc.

Art jewelry, which differs from the mainstream jewelry of the late Victorian/early 20th century period, had diverse influences and styles in each country, yet there is also a thread that links them together. An exhibition to open at The Forbes Galleries, New York, on October 29 will show examples of the various movements side by side. The exhibition will run till March 17, 2012.

International Art Jewelry: 1895-1925 will include almost 200 pieces of jewelry and related decorative arts objects by 75 artists that illustrate the connection between the jewelry movements to each other and to the corresponding decorative arts during this period.

The exhibition will include work from Great Britain, United States, France, Belgium, Germany, Austria, Italy and the Scandinavian countries.

The exhibition will explain why there was a global interest in creating art jewelry at this time and point out the differences and similarities between the influences and the styles of jewelry executed in various countries.

“This exhibition will focus on the broader subject of the relationship of a number of early 20th century art jewelry movements rather than zero in on work in one particular style or country,” said Bonnie Kirschstein, Forbes Galleries managing director.

The guest curator is Elyse Zorn Karlin, co-director of the Association for the Study of Jewelry & Related Arts and the publisher/executive editor of Adornment Magazine. She is a noted lecturer and author whose publications include Jewelry and Metalwork in the Arts & Crafts Tradition and Imperishable Beauty Art Nouveau Jewelry (co-authored with Yvonne Markowitz, Rita J. Kaplan and Susan B. Kaplan). Her most recent curatorial project was Jewelers of the Hudson Valley at The Forbes Galleries, April 9-June 25.