A Treasure of Jewelry at the Hong Kong Fair

Lacecap hydrangeas made of 18k white gold, diamond pavé  and the Japanese lacquer techniques, Makie and Urushi by Maillet D’Or.

I can get caught up on attendance and geopolitical issues and how it affects the September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair, but the event is first and foremost a jewelry show. As always there was plenty to behold, much more than this humble journalist can see in a few days.

Camellia flower brooches in 18k white and green gold, with diamonds, tsavorites and urushi Japanese lacquer by Maillet D’Or.

There were nearly 3,700 exhibitors this year, far more than any other jewelry trade fair in the world, providing everything one could ever possibly see in one place at one time in the world of jewelry. It includes pieces ranging from inexpensive mass produced products to exquisite examples of high jewelry art and materials ranging from silver and amber to the finest gems and diamonds.

Japanese coral ring by Maillet D’Or

I’ve included a brief listing of what I was able to discover at this year’s fair.

A variety of ring mounts by Gold Source Jewellery.

My biggest find is a Japanese family firm that specializes in handmade high and bespoke jewelry, Atelier Maillet D’Or, exhibiting under the brand, Okurado, produces nature inspired designs made of 18k yellow and white gold covered in diamond pavé. In some cases the colors of metals are mixed.

"Fortune" stackable rings in a variety of colors and designs by Gold Source Jewellery under its 5 Star Jewelry brand.

One of their unique attributes is the use of Japanese lacquer techniques. They also use enamel and Japanese coral in elaborate ways, such as camellia flower designs made of carved white coral and urushi lacquer.

Contemporary design for this white gold and diamond Ascension ring by Inspired Jewellery. 

The Japanese royal family and Prince Albert of Monaco are among those who admire and wear their works. Company president Hitoshi Okura said it was the first time the family firm was exhibiting at the show. They chose to be part of a group of jewelry designers in a booth provided by Frank & Label, a company that represents fine jewelry designers in China.

Colorful pave rings by Rodney Rayner.

At the other end of the spectrum there’s Gold Source Jewellery, which specializes in creating ring mountings, primarily for bridal jewelry as well as lines of colorful, affordable finished fashion jewelry pieces under the 5 Star Jewelry brand. The company produces thousands of pieces each month that are exported all over the world.

A variety of one-of-a-kind jewelry designs from L'Dezen Jewellery.

Then there’s a New Zealand firm named Inspired Jewelry that specializes in contemporary jewelry designs made primarily of white gold and platinum with diamonds. Invisible mounts and metals with unusual bends and curves are the basis of their architecture-inspired designs.

The company also has a second business providing design and marketing services to diamond manufactures who want to produce accessible finished jewelry pieces.

Also in the Frank & Label booth was UK designer Rodney Rayner, who specializes in bold and colorful jewelry created with a variety of precious materials. He says he sells his pieces just about everywhere in the world except, inexplicitly, in his home country.

Finally, there’s someone whom I’ve written about before, Payal Shah, owner of L'Dezen Jewellery, who is making quite a name for herself with her unusual shaped pieces finished with slice and rose cut diamonds mounted in 18k gold in various colors. The brand produces what seems like a near endless variety of one-of-kind designs. Her jewelry is becoming available at more retailers and appearing on celebrities, most recently on actress Sofia Vergara.

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