Italian Gold Jewelry the Focus of Arezzo Tradeshow

Nemesi

The city of Arezzo is a gold jewelry manufacturing center that symbolizes Italian design and craftsmanship. It’s where jewelry for the masses meets with the artistry and craftsmanship that are the hallmarks of Italian jewelry design.

Unoaerre

It is in this Tucson region where the Gold/Italy jewelry trade fair was held, October 25-27. With its focus on Italian jewelry design and craftsmanship from 220 companies in the region, the show attracted jewelry industry professionals throughout Italy and from 50 countries around the world. 

Eurocatene

Fashion was a big focus of this year’s show with runway events matching jewelry to apparel ranging from street clothes to elaborate gowns. It’s not going to be a one-year theme as the officials of the local gold jewelry industry sees its future as a partner with fashion companies. 

Artur Gold

“Made in Italy jewelry is the result of excellent manufacturing skill and a historical goldsmith tradition. We have an extraordinary product which must be taken advantage of. Only those who innovate can hope to change the world,” said Andrea Boldi, president of Arezzo Fiere e Congressi, which owns Gold/Italy and Oroarezzo. “Arezzo is the home of jewelry, and in our territory, we have always been linked to another top quality and world famous excellence, fashion.”

Fratelli Chini

He added, “We are working towards having buyers from the fashion world directly at the show because, nowadays, in an increasingly dynamic and global world, we must be able to create further business links. For this show, we have managed to achieve an important result. We will have 240 top international buyers who are estimated to create over 1.5 billion dollars in Made in Italy sales.”

Fratelli Bovo

This year’s show provided a good representation of the region’s artistry, with new creative designs, more traditional solid-gold fare, mixed jewelry pieces incorporating precious and semiprecious stones, and silver jewelry.

Gruppo Eclat

One of the things these artisans do well is create designs using finely woven gold mesh, in threads that in some cases are half the thickness of a human hair, shaped and molded into elaborate necklaces, earrings, brooches, and bracelets. The same type of variety and detail is present in gold-beaded pieces. Big, bold pieces, something Italians are noted for, were also evident as well color in many of the designs.

Mulino d'Oro

Two companies, Fratelli Bovo and Fratelli Chini, provided different examples of the mesh technique, with the first shaping the fine gold threads in a corkscrew pattern for a necklace, earrings and ring set; while the latter uses crisscross patterns that extend out into a series of semicircles for a bracelet. 

New Line

Unoaerre created a fine-beaded bracelet in a woven pattern that looked like ribbon. Another bracelet by Gruppo Eclat mixed yellow gold with a brown colored gold finished for a two-color thick bracelet in a tight woven pattern. 

Prestige

A few years ago, jewelry manufacturer, Nemesi, turned to 3D printing to create its jewels and now 90 percent of its pieces are made with this technology, which has freed the company creatively, said Paolo Cerofolini. “We can do anything,” he said. “The only limit is the market.” 

Aqua

He adds that the company has been in “full production” for the past five years and business continues to pick up as the price of gold has declined. 

Nemesi’s offerings included a two-stone ring made with threads of gold in random-like patterns and topped with a Japanese cultured pearl and a round faceted citrine. 

The Graziella Group provides jewelry in gold and silver in classic, modern and fashion designs for women of all ages. Its products extend to accessories, such as leather handbags and a quartz watch line. They sell to retailers and directly to consumers. Its major markets are in the Middle East, Dubai, Russia and China. 

Serena Cutini, a sales representative with the company, said it was not affected by the global downturn.

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Found: Long Lost Gems From Plane Crash on Mont Blanc

A French mountain climber scaling Mont Blanc came upon gems worth approximately $333,000, according to reports in The Guardian and other publications.

The precious stones almost certainly belonged to someone on one of two Air India flights that crashed into the famous mountain in 1950 and 1996, according to the reports. A total of 165 people were killed in those two crashes.

The gems, around 100, were found neatly packed in bags that were marked, “Made in India,” according to The Guardian report. The mountain climber immediately turned the stones over to local French authorities.

At 15,781 feet, Mont Blanc, which borders France and Italy, is the highest mountain in the Alps and the European Union. The summit is ascended by an average 20,000 mountaineer-tourists each year. 

A special thank you to independent jewelry designer, Etienne Perret, for altering me to this story.

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New Italian Jewelry Designs from VicenzaOro

The subtle differences of the two tones of gold color and the texture of the precious metal are the hallmarks of Anna Maria Cammilli. The simplicity of this nature-inspired motif is used throughout the collection in complicated ways. Diamond accents enhance the design.

The recently concluded VicenzaOro Fall jewelry tradeshow may have marked a turning point for the Italian jewelry industry, which has been suffering due to the global recession, the spike in gold prices and high labor costs.

The butterfly from Damiani uses yellow gold accented by brown and white diamonds, and amethysts. Each butterfly is made with a variety of material combinations and can be worn as a pendant, brooch or set onto a ring.

At this year’s show, held September 7 -11, approximately, 1,200 Italian and foreign brands from 30 countries presented a breadth of jewelry products to more than 18,000 buyers (10,879 from Italy and 7,160 from 111 other countries).

18k yellow gold cuff with diamond pavé accent by Chimento.

Show officials were particularly excited about the “return” of some Italian retailers, seeing it as “an encouraging sign considering the much-desired end of the most critical phase of the recession.”

A silver star-shaped ring with a white pearl by Mayumi.

The show numbers coincide with data from the Italian government reporting second quarter growth for Italian jewelry exports, after two years of decline. Growth was recorded in terms of value (6%) and quantity (2.6%) over the same period of the previous year. Exports to the US, the world’s largest jewelry market, increased 12 percent in value in the second quarter.

From Fope’s Flex’it collection, patented ‘roll on’ mesh chain bracelets are crafted in 18k gold and fully flexible, without clasps. The Niue line is designed with a refined version of the classic gold mesh, enriched with black or white diamonds, multiple rondels and limited edition pink sapphire or gold cognac diamond balls.

“Among the industry players there is an atmosphere of moderate confidence,” show officials said.

Rose gold bracelet in a flowing design partially covered with white diamond pave by I Gregori Milano.

VicenzaOro, held four times a year, serves as a showcase of beautiful objects that combine artistry, international fashion trends and technical knowhow. Italian fine jewelry in terms of design and craftsmanship is unparalleled in the world of jewelry making. On this level, the show did not disappoint.

Inspired by the Boboli Gardens this collection of handmade jewellery by Nouvelle Bague uses in gold and diamonds, combined with colored enamel.

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Rings from Porrati with white pearls and rose gold; with pink sapphires set on rose gold; a rose gold ring; and a thin rose gold band set with pink sapphires.

 

I added a piece from Brazilian designer Carla Amorim who was inspired by the formation of sand dunes for these rose gold earrings.

A French Company Acquires Another Prestigious Italian Jewelry Brand

Tilda Swinton, a spokesperson for Pomellato.

Less than two years after French conglomerate LVMH acquired luxury Italian jewelry brand Bulgari; its French competitor, holding company Kering, finalized its acquisition of Italian jewelry brand Pomellato.

The agreement for Kering to purchase a majority stake in Pomellato was announced in April. On Thursday, Kering, formerly known as PPR, announced in a brief statement that the agreement received clearance from the antitrust authorities and has been finalized.

Pomellato was one of the few truly prestigious independent Italian jewelry brands left to acquire. The brand was founded by Pino Rabolini in Milan in 1967, pioneering the concept of ready-to-wear jewelry. The idea was that jewelry is not just a status symbol but an accessory to be worn and replaced at any time of the day. The current CEO, Andrea Morante, will remain in this position with the company.

Pomellato ranks among the top five European jewelers by sales, with 2012 revenues of €146 million ($190 million). It has a distinct style, an international following and an aura of exclusivity. The brand is known for its colorful rounded cabochon gems and its tactile forms. For example, pavé patterns are created with gemstones of various sizes and irregular forms. In recent years, the company was also known for its advertising partnership with actress Tilda Swinton, who appeared in company photographs and videos.

In 1995, Pomellato launched a second brand, Dodo, an accessible line of 18k gold charms in the shapes of animals. The name, after an extinct bird, was chosen as a way to exemplify the need to protect nature. The brand supports the Italian World Wildlife Fund, working to prevent the extinction of other animal species.

Pomellato’s distribution network includes 86 mono-brand stores (45 Pomellato, 41 Dodo) as well as approximately 600 independent points of sale around the world. More importantly for Pomellato and Kering is that there is plenty of room for growth. Pomellato has expressed an interest to extend its international distribution. Kering, with its immense size as an international player in the apparel and accessories markets, can fuel that growth.

Kering is present in more than 120 countries and generated revenues of €9.7 billion ($12.4 billion) in 2012. With the acquisition Pomellato finalized, the company now has a majority stake in 19 brands that include international luxury fashion brands Gucci, Bottega Veneta and Saint Laurent; French luxury jewelry brand, Boucheron; Chinese luxury jewelry brand, Qeelin; luxury Swiss watch brands, Girard-Perregaux and Jewn-Richard; and sports brand, Puma.

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U.S. Sees First Increase in Gold Jewelry Demand in 7 Years

Gold jewelry making a comeback.

Gold jewelry demand in the U.S. for the first quarter of 2013 grew by more than 5% year-over-year to reach a value of $986 million. This is the first increase in demand since the third quarter of 2005, the World Gold Council said Thursday.

The lower-end of the U.S. jewelry market rebounded considerably, the WGC in its quarterly Gold Demand Trends report, adding that it’s “a further positive sign of recovery in the U.S. economy, coinciding with a correction in the gold price over the course of the quarter.”

Meanwhile, the amount of gold used for the fabrication of jewelry worldwide increased by 12% year-over-year to 551 metric tons for the first quarter of 2013, worth a record value of $28.9 billion, according to the report.

The dramatic decline in the value of gold has led to an increase in demand, the WGC said in the report. However, that demand is largely limited to India and China, who continue to distance themselves from the rest of the world in their passion for gold jewelry. The two countries combined now account for 62% of gold jewelry demand, according to the report. The U.S. for the first time in more seven years saw a year-over-year increase in gold jewelry demand.

Other highlights of the report include:

* Gold jewelry demand surged by 19% in China to a record level, led by Chinese New Year gifting in January and a rebound in consumer sentiment, WGC said. This is despite new in leadership in China calling for less conspicuous consumption. Demand saw the largest increase in 24k gold jewelry, although demand for 18k gold jewelry also increased.

* In India, year-over-year demand grew by 15% and came just short of beating the fourth quarter 2012 record. However, that gain was compared a very soft first quarter of 2012.

* Meanwhile, gold jewelry demand in Italy and the U.K. fell dramatically, 12% and 7%, respectively, as difficult economic continues continue to lead consumers to purchase lower-karat gold and silver jewelry.

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Double-Digit Decline in U.S. Gold Jewelry Demand

The high price of gold continues to have a detrimental impact on the worldwide jewelry market as demand in this sector for the precious metal fell by 6 percent, year-over-year, in the first quarter of 2012, the World Gold Council said Thursday. The value of jewelry demand, meanwhile, grew by 14 percent to $28.3 billion.

Gold jewelry demand was weaker in all but six countries and clearly reflects the year-over-year 22 percent increase in the average gold price of gold to 1,690.57, according to the WGC Gold Demand Trend report for the first quarter of 2012.

In the U.S., demand fell 10 percent to 17.6 tons. In addition to the high price of the precious metal, the report blames high gas prices and cautious consumers. In value terms, gold increased by 10 percent to $958.2 million.

In Italy, demand slid 14 percent to 3.5 tons “as the negative economic environment took its toll,” according to the report. In the U.K., demand dropped 4 percent to 3 tons.

India, the world’s largest consumer of gold and gold jewelry, was largely responsible for the worldwide decline, according to the report. An unexpected substantial increase in the import tax on gold and the introduction of an excise duty on gold jewelry resulted in a three-week countrywide strike among jewelers until the government agreed to end the excise duty. A weaker rupee also added to the decline.

Meanwhile, China dominated the jewelry market as demand increased 8 percent to 156.6 tons in the first quarter. China accounted for 30 percent of all demand for the period, making it the largest gold jewelry market for the third consecutive quarter.

Demand in Russia was also robust with a 28 percent increase in the first quarter to 20.4 tons, attributed partly to stock building among the trade. However, the repot notes that “historically low inflation, GDP growth, improving consumer confidence and real wage gold,” contributed greatly to the gains. “Gold remains the most popular metal of choice among Russian jewelry consumers.”

Overall, global gold demand in the first quarter fell by 5 percent to 1,097.6 tons, the WGC reports. “This decrease was largely to be expected given the introduction of import taxes in India and high gold prices,” the report states. “Demand for the quarter was underpinned by increased demand in China, continued central bank purchasing and inflows into exchange-traded funds.”

Gold demand value for the period increased 16 percent to $59.7 billion. Gold demand includes its use in jewelry, technology, investment and official sector institutions (such as world banks).

“China and India have seen continuing economic growth and whilst China’s economy is expected to slow, it will nonetheless surpass the rates of growth in the West,” said Marcus Grubb, managing director, Investment at the World Gold Council. “As we previously forecast it is likely China will become the largest source of demand for gold in 2012.”

China Leads World in Luxury Attitude and Spending

Affluent consumers in the U.S. and much of the world are pulling back on their spending and attitude toward luxury. However, in China, affluent consumers are choosing luxury in every aspect of the lives, according to a seven-country survey of households earning at least $150,000.

About 57 percent of wealthy Chinese shoppers say that the economic environment has prompted them to spend more on luxury in the past year, and 50 percent plan to boost spending in the next 12 months, according to the survey by the Luxury Institute, a New York-based consulting firm. Restraint is more evident in the U.S., where 10 percent of the wealthy stepped up luxury spending in the past year and 6 percent plan to spend more in the next 12 months. U.S. consumers are twice as likely as those in China (32% vs. 16%) to have trimmed luxury spending last year.

Meanwhile, in Europe the currency crisis did not stop 14 percent of wealthy shoppers in France and 17 percent of those in Italy from boosting luxury spending this year, according to the survey, which represents the top 10 percent in household income. However, 38 percent of high-income shoppers in both countries plan to cut back in the coming year.

In Japan, the March earthquake and tsunami dampened enthusiasm for luxury shopping, with 7 percent of wealthy Japanese consumers reporting higher levels of spending and 34 percent cutting back.

The most widespread retrenchment comes in the U.K., where 38 percent of wealthy shoppers have pared back luxury spending, and 41 percent plan reductions in coming months. Germany shows more stability compared to other rich nations: Only 17 percent of wealthy German consumers say that they are spending less on luxury now and 29 percent plan to trim luxuries in the coming year.

Across all seven markets, luxury travel is the category in which most wealthy consumers anticipate stepping up spending, with China far and away showing the strongest appetite, according to the survey.

In China, 58 percent of the wealthy plan to spend more on leisure travel, followed by 28 percent in Italy and 22 percent in Germany who say the same. A total of 16 percent of wealthy consumers in the U.K., and 18 percent in the U.S., Japan, France and Italy, plan to spend more on travel.

Spending plans across the board in each of the 26 luxury categories were substantially higher in China than in Europe and the U.S., with some of the biggest disparities showing in apparel, watches, jewelry and gifts where Chinese consumers were six to seven times more likely to boost spending, according to the survey. Also strong in China are luxury auto sales, with 43 percent of the wealthy planning to spend more on cars, compared to 11 percent in the U.S., U.K. and Japan.

Attitudes towards luxury are far more positive in China than they are in other rich nations, with 78 percent of those surveyed saying that luxury goods and services are more important in today's economy. The reverse is true in the U.S. where 80 percent of wealthy shoppers say that luxury has become less important.

More than 75 percent of Chinese say that luxury expenditures are prudent purchases, while 78 percent of wealthy consumers in the U.S., U.K., and Germany find them to be an extravagance. Similarly, 78 percent of China's wealthy shoppers say that luxury goods and services are an important part of their lifestyle in today's economy, compared to 25 percent in U.S. and Germany and 20 percent in France who agree that luxury remains central in their lives.

Wealthy Chinese consumers are also highly inclined to place a premium on exclusivity and quality, and discounting turns them off. More than half of wealthy Chinese and 49 percent of Japanese say that brands that discount their merchandise are not truly luxury brands. In the U.S. and Germany, one-third of wealthy consumers share the same dim view of discounting, as do 40 percent of wealthy shoppers in the U.K, Italy and France. Despite the dour attitude towards discounting, 56 percent of wealthy Chinese say that discounting has increased their overall spending on luxury and 50 percent plan to spend more on discounted luxury items in the coming months.

Gitanjali Buys 90% Stake in Italian Firm

Gitanjali Gems Ltd., an Indian diamond and jewelry manufacturer, retailer and distributor, said it now owns a majority stake of Italian firm Giantti Italia S.R.L., according to media reports.

The company acquired 90 percent stake in Milan-based company from its Dubai-located wholly owned subsidiary, Gitanjali Ventures DMCC, the company reportedly said in a filing with the Bombay Stock Exchange. Financial details of the acquisition were not disclosed.

The Italian firm has become a direct subsidiary of Gitanjali, according to the report. Gitanjali Gems has also incorporated a wholly-owned subsidiary, Gitanjali Resources, in Belgium with a view to explore and expand its businesses in Europe.

Gitanjali Gems provides rough diamond sourcing (cutting, polishing and distribution), jewelry manufacturing; jewelry branding and jewelry retailing in India and abroad.

Diamond Jewelry Designs by Charade

Italian diamond jewelry designer Charade introduced new creations during the JCK Las Vegas jewelry trade show that highlight their skill in working with colored diamonds.

The Valenza-based company introduced black diamond pave rings that sparkle, white gold diamond rings that take on the look of a glittering spider web (top photo) and brooches and rings with various shades of green, yellow and white diamonds (above and below).