Eye Catching Jewelry from the 2012 AGTA Spectrum Awards

A carved jade fish accented with fire opals by Manya & Roumen. It tied for first place among editors who attended the Spectrum Awards editor's event.

There’s been a lot of talk about the winners of the AGTA Spectrum Awards, which were named Oct. 24. And all of it is well deserved. However, there were hundreds of other creative, innovative and otherwise beautiful pieces on display during the media review of the entries on the same day. Here are just a few that caught my eye:

Dagger Brooch with diaspore (17.63 ctw.) accented with rubies (0.58 ctw.) and diamonds (1.73 ctw.) set in 18k yellow gold.

An 18k yellow gold and black rhodium “Sleeping Raven” ring featuring round blue sapphires (4.227 ctw.).

“Guardian of the Deep” pendant made with 19k white gold showcasing an octopus with a silver keshi pearl on round rainbow drusy quartz accented with 1-ct. spinel and multicolored diamonds.

An 18k black and white gold “Medusa” bracelet featuring tsavorite Gamets (3.98 ctw.) accented with black diamonds (4.43 ctw.) and white diamonds (1.10 ctw.) by Yehouda Saketkhou of Yael Designs.

Lotus bracelet with diaspore (30.48 ctw.), pink sapphires (5.62 ctw.) and diamonds (6.94 ctw.) set in yellow gold by Erica Courtney.

Top: 18k green gold ring with 13-ct. green tourmaline accented with diamonds by Lori Auster. Bottom: 18k yellow gold bracelet with watermelon tourmalines (97.01 ctw.) accented with diamonds (2.98 ctw.) by Puja Bordia.

A 14k yellow gold pendant with a 126-ct. citrine accented with more citrines and and faceted Mexican fire opals by Jeanne Cassanova.

Art Deco and 18k yellow gold necklace featuring two triangular cabochon jade pieces (4.08 ctw.), nine pear-shaped rubies, custom-cut onyx, round tsavorite garnets and round diamonds (1.38 ctw.) by Ricardo basta.

An 18k white gold “Pacifier” ring with a 15.5 mm Tahitian cultured pearl accented with tsavorite garnets (2.50 ctw.) and a 0.16 pear-cut diamond.

An 18k white gold brooch featuring an 80-ct. carved aquamarine accented with diamonds (1.17 ctw.) by Naomi Sarna.

A 22k yellow gold and oxidized silver brooch featuring freshwater pearls, drusy quartz and diamonds (0.06 ctw.) by Jill Hurant.

Sterling silver and 18k yellow gold bangle with multicolored gemstones (8.30 ctw.) by Samuel Behnam.

A 14k yellow and rose gold ring with a 12.75-ct. round rubelite tourmaline accented with tsavorite garnets by Karen Sam.

2012 AGTA Spectrum Award Winners

Best of Show winner from Todd Reed. Photography by Sandro Art & Photography

The American Gem Trade Association unveiled its 2012 Spectrum Award winners Monday in Manhattan. Scores of jewelry and fashion journalists had the opportunity to view not only the winners, but the hundreds of entries to what is considered by many to be the most respected and prestigious creative award for the jewelry design industry.

Launched in 1984 by the American Gem Trade Association, the awards honor, recognize and promote designers whose work uses natural colored gemstones and cultured pearls in finished fine jewelry design. All of the jewelry designers in the competition used colored gemstones and cultured pearls in their work.

What follows is list of the winners along with photographs when available. The AGTA was able to get some professional quality photographs taken and some of the other photographs were taken by me (a few poorly done, I apologize in advance) at the event.

BEST OF CATEGORY WINNERS:

Best of Show

Todd Reed, Todd Reed, Inc.

Palladium and 22K yellow gold locket featuring blue Moonstones, grey Diamonds (24.51 ctw.), blue sapphires (17.34 ctw.) and white diamonds (5.10 ctw.) opening to reveal a 76.03 ct. Moldavite Buddha (top photo).

Photography by Sandro Art & Photography

Best Use of Color

Deirdre Featherstone, Featherstone Design

Platinum earrings featuring removable Opal enhancers (15.64 ctw.) accented with blue zircons (3.27 ctw.), tanzanites (3.53 ctw.), paraiba tourmalines (.40 ctw.) and diamonds (5.79 ctw.).

Best Use of Platinum and Color

Michael Endlich, Pave Fine Jewelry

Platinum ring featuring a 19.05 ct. cushion-cut aquamarine with pave-set diamonds (0.41 ctw.).

Best Use of Palladium and Color

Dennis de Jonghe - Dennis de Jonghe

Palladium pendant featuring a 16.39 ct. aquamarine accented with a 2.09 ct. Moonstone, diamonds (.26 ctw.) and pearls.

Best Use of Pearls

Anil Maloo, Baggins, Inc.

18K white gold and black rhodium plated earrings encrusted with light cognac diamonds (8.16 ctw.) and 13.3mm cultured South Seas pearls.

Fashion Forward

Belle Brooke Barer, Belle Brooke Designs, Inc.

Oxidized sterling necklace featuring an approximately 30 ct. blue chalcedony cabochon accented with diamonds (.55 ctw.).

Category Winners

Bridal Wear Category

Photography by Robert Weldon

First Place

Maria Canale, Richard Krementz Gemstones - Platinum "Lace" ring featuring a 4.10 ct. blue sapphire accented with diamonds (.77 ctw.).

Second Place

Erica Courtney, Erica Courtney – 18k yellow gold earrings featuring diaspore (2.99 ctw.), demantoid Garnets (2.71 ctw.) and Diamonds (2.81 ctw.).

Third Place

Craig Slavens, AuRTWORK Jewelry - Platinum and 18k yellow gold pendant featuring a 3.92 ct. rose-cut black diamond accented with black and white diamond melee (.52 ctw.) on an 18k white gold chain set with black and white Diamonds (0.71 ctw.).

Bridal Wear - Platinum Honors

James Currens, J.W. Currens, Inc. - Platinum ring featuring a 16.80 ct. sugarloaf ruby accented with diamonds (4.54 ctw.).

Bridal Wear - Entry Platinum Innovation

Mark Schneider, Mark Schneider Design - Platinum ring featuring a 1.81 ct. round blue sapphire accented with white diamonds (.14 ctw.).

Bridal Wear - Palladium Prestige Award

Mirjam Butz-Brown, Adorn Gallery - Palladium and 14k yellow gold earrings featuring quartz and mother-of-pearl accented with diamonds (.16 ctw.) with detachable mirror-cut amethyst drops (21.50 ctw.).

Bridal Wear - Manufacturing Honors

Mark Schneider, Mark Schneider Design - Platinum earrings featuring 12mm black Tahitian Pearls and 8mm cultured freshwater pearls accented with white diamonds (0.99 ctw.) and black Diamonds (.53 ctw.).

Bridal Wear - Honorable Mention
Leonard McCue, L.A.M. Goldsmiths - Platinum "Hearts and Arrows" ring featuring a 19-ct. pear-shaped moonstone accented with diamonds (2.37 ctw.).

Bridal Wear - Honorable Mention

Yehouda Saketkhou, Yael Designs - 18K white gold "Baroness" earrings featuring trillion-cut tanzanites (10.15 ctw.) accented with diamonds (5.29 ctw.).

Business/Day Wear Category

First Place

Belle Brooke Barer, Belle Brooke Designs, Inc. - Oxidized sterling necklace featuring an approximately 30 ct. blue chalcedony cabochon accented with Diamonds (.55 ctw.).

Second Place

Michele Mercaldo, Michele Mercaldo Contemporary Jewelry - Palladium ring featuring a 2.64 ct. pink sapphire accented with diamonds (.17 ctw.).

Third Place

Heather Moore, Heather B. Moore, Inc. – 14k yellow gold "I Love You More than the Moon, the Stars and theSun" necklace featuring a 54.70 ct. rubellite tourmaline cabochon accented with Diamonds (3.50 ctw.).

Business/Day Wear - Platinum Honors

Leon Mege, Leon Mege, Inc. - Platinum ring featuring a 16.76 ct. paraiba tourmaline cabochon accented with antique cushion-cut diamonds and diamond melee (3.10 ctw.).

Business/Day Wear - Entry Platinum Innovation

Susan Drake, Spectrum Art & Jewelry - Platinum and yellow gold ring featuring a 1.08 ct. emerald-cut red spinel accented with diamonds (.18 ctw.).

Business/Day Wear - Palladium Prestige Award

Dawn Muscio, D. Muscio Designs - Palladium and 14K rose gold "Isis" ring featuring a 19.98 ct. buff-top chrysocolla accented with peridots (.36 ctw.) and diamonds (.11 ctw.).

Business/Day Wear - Manufacturing Honors

Norman Turgeon, Turgeon-Raine Jewellers – 18k rose gold earrings featuring "passion-flower"-cut amethysts (6.92 ctw.) accented with chrome tourmalines (.34 ctw.) and diamonds (.40 ctw.).

Business/Day Wear - Honorable Mention

Pamela Froman - Pamela Froman Fine Jewelry – 18k yellow and pink gold "Crushed Frame" ring featuring a 14.11 ct. opal accented with diamond pave (.32 ctw.).

Business/Day Wear - Honorable Mention

Sylva Yepremian, Sylva & Cie. - 18K yellow gold necklace featuring a cross pendant of trapiche emeralds (54.65 ctw.) accented with diamonds (2.5 ctw.).

Classical Category:

Photography by Sandro Art & Photography

First Place

James Currens, J.W. Currens, Inc. - Platinum ring featuring a 14.25 ct. unheated ruby cabochon accented with diamonds (7.97 ctw.).

Second Place

Ashok Sancheti, Pioneer Gems - Platinum earrings featuring emerald cabochon drops (18.45 ctw.) accented with emeralds (18.21 ctw.) and diamonds (4.81 ctw.).

Third Place

Jeffrey Bilgore, Jeffrey Bilgore, LLC - Platinum pendant featuring an 11.80 ct. pear-shaped morganite accented with fancy-colored and white Diamonds (7.09 ctw.).

Classical - Platinum Honors

Erica Courtney, Erica Courtney - Platinum ring featuring an 11.19 ct. imperial pink topaz accented with diamonds.

Classical - Entry Platinum Innovation

Steph Farber, LeRoy Jewelers - Platinum "Waterfall" pendant featuring a 16.9 ct. carved rutilated quartz and three rainbow moonstones accented with diamonds (.25 ctw.).

Classical - Palladium Prestige Award

Dennis de Jonghe, Dennis de Jonghe - Palladium ring featuring a 16.5mm white South Seas pearl accented with round diamonds (.71 ctw.).

Classical - Manufacturing Honors

Ricardo Basta, E. Eichberg, Inc. – 18k yellow gold and platinum tri-color eternity set bands featuring rubies (0.34 ctw.), tsavorite garnets (0.28 ctw.) and sapphires (0.21 ctw.).

Classical - Honorable Mention

Frank Caballero, Frank Caballero – 18k white and yellow gold ring featuring a 9.11 ct. round madeira citrine accented with white round diamonds (.62 ctw.).

Classical - Honorable Mention
Christo Kiffer, Sissy's Log Cabin - Platinum art-deco ring featuring a 4.84 ct. oval black opal cabochon accented with Emeralds (1.0 ctw.), blue sapphire melee (.88 ctw.) and diamonds (.93 ctw.).


Evening Wear Category

Photography by Sandro Art & Photography

First Place

Ion Ionescu, Ionescu Design, Inc. - Palladium and black rhodium "Pillow for Dreaming" ring featuring a 36 ct. carved labradorite accented with paraiba tourmalines (1.50 ctw.).

Second Place

Adam Neeley, Adam Neeley Fine Art Jewelry – 14k black rhodium-plated white gold ring featuring an 11.54 ct. peridot accented with blue sapphires (12.01 ctw.).

Third Place

Robert Pelliccia, J.R. Dunn Jewelers – 18k white gold dangle earrings featuring natural blue jade accented with sapphires (6.76 ctw.) and diamonds (1.18 ctw.).

Evening Wear - Platinum Honors

Evelyn Clothier, Evelyn Clothier Jewelry - Platinum butterfly brooch featuring brown diamond slices (104.42 ctw.) accented with a 5.06 ct. brown diamond and white diamonds (3.04 ctw.).

Evening Wear - Palladium Prestige Award

Naomi Sarna, Naomi Sarna Designs - Palladium ring featuring a 35.0 ct. carved topaz accented with diamonds (.63 ctw.).

Evening Wear - Manufacturing Honors

Yehouda Saketkhou, Yael Designs – 18k white gold "Lave" ring featuring a 5.49 ct. Mexican fire opal accented with diamonds (0.90 ctw.).

Evening Wear - Honorable Mention

Colette Steckel, Colette Jewelry – 18k blackened yellow gold pendant featuring a 6.03 ct. blue checkerboard moonstone accented with diamonds (3.59 ctw.).

Evening Wear - Honorable Mention

Michael Hezar, Michael John IMAGE - 18K white gold bracelet featuring aquamarines (37.0 ctw.) and diamonds (9.75 ctw.).

Evening Wear - Honorable Mention

Lawrence Gordon, Aspire Designs, Ltd. - 18K white gold ring featuring a 17.62 ct. moonstone cabochon accented with blue sapphires (2.28 ctw.) and diamonds (1.59 ctw.).

Men's Wear Category

Photography by Sandro Art & Photography

First Place

Mark Schneider, Mark Schneider Design - Platinum engraved ring featuring channel-set ruby melee (0.59 ctw.) and yellow Diamonds (0.115 ctw.).

Second Place

Ryan Roberts, Ryan Roberts, Ltd. – 18k yellow gold and platinum ring featuring a 6.42 ct. indicolite tourmaline and a 0.59 ct. tsavorite garnet accented with diamonds (.19 ctw.).

Third Place

Llyn Strelau, Jewels by Design – 19k white gold "Green Arrow" cufflinks featuring bezel-set black onyx and Gibeon meteorite carvings centered by tsavorite garnets (.90 ctw.) and accented with black Diamonds (0.15 ctw.).

Men's Wear - Platinum Honors

Mark Schneider, Mark Schneider Design - Platinum ring featuring a 15 ct. shield-cut rubellite tourmaline accented with white diamonds (0.90 ctw.) and yellow diamonds (0.22 ctw.).

Men's Wear - Palladium Prestige Award

Evelyn Huang, evelynH. Jewelry, Inc. - Palladium "Zultan" ring featuring a 12.54 ct. color-change diaspore accented with radiant-cut diamonds (.43 ctw.).

Men's Wear - Manufacturing Honors

Ashleigh Branstetter, Ashleigh Branstetter - Sterling silver cufflinks featuring 10mm grey Tahitian pearls and round blue sapphires (1.34 ctw.).

Men's Wear - Honorable Mention

Link Wachler, Link Wachler Designs - Silver and 14k rose gold "Eye to Eye" ring featuring the fish versus the worm. The ring has a 4.5mm Pearl and is accented with sapphires (.38 ctw.), rubies (.22 ctw.) and emeralds (.07 ctw.).

Men's Wear - Honorable Mention

Matt Conable, William Henry - Pocketknife with wave damascus blade. Frame is carved 22K yellow gold over sterling silver inlaid with fossil walrus Ivory accented with rubies on the button lock and thumb stud.

Galatea’s Queen Bead Carved Pearl Designs

Queen Bead Queen Bracelet

Chi Huynh is both a jeweler and an artist. His canvas and his muse are pearls. Already beautiful in their own right, he takes each individual pearl and carves designs in them or he pairs them with precious metals and gemstones in unusual ways to create individual works of art. The results are quite striking, as detailed and refined as any artist or craftsman who works with more traditional materials.

Queen Bead Levitation Hope Necklace

Huynh’s company, Galatea: Jewelry by Artist, has introduced a new collection that capitalizes on the popularity of jewelry with interchangeable beads. Called the Queen Bead Collection, it offers a way to create dramatic cultured pearl necklaces, bracelets and earrings one pearl at a time. Huynh says it’s for women looking to express her own personal style. The collection includes 39 carved pearl designs. Available in black South Sea as well as white and peach freshwater pearls, the “beads” in the collection can be rearranged at will. Measuring 10-12 mm. with sterling silver cores, Queen Beads are designed to be collected. Suggested retail prices begin at $112.50 for a single South Sea Queen Bead and $45 for a freshwater Queen Bead.

Queen Bead Integrity Bracelet

The new line includes sterling silver bracelets and necklaces featuring the company's sterling silver magnetic Galatea Attraction clasps with an internal closure. Earrings are also available.

Lois Berger’s Pearl Walk

Strands of Nucleated Chinese Pearls at the Sea Hunt booth

Pearls are not just beautiful, they are complex. There are many ways of growing pearls these days and a seemingly endless number of ways to label them and quantify their beauty and value. All of this was made even clearer to me during the recent AGTA GemFair Tucson when I participated in Lois Berger’s annual “Pearl Walk.”

Lois Berger (right) speaks with Gina Latendresse of American Pearl Company

Berger is an international authority on pearls. She is senior gemology appraiser of Fuller & Associates, and pearl reporter for The Guide, Gemworld International's influential pricing guide in the gem industry.

A baroque beauty from King's Ransom.

In addition to her position in the industry, Berger holds another title that is far more valuable: Sweetheart. At more than 80 years of age, she trudges through the Tucson Convention Center with a large bag on wheels (Who knows what’s in it?) and a big smile on her face. She takes her job seriously as she is at the show from opening till closing working non-stop. Afterward she organizes large dinners and other events for her friends and associates—if she doesn’t have any business events to attend. Although busy, she always has time and advice for others and instantly befriends strangers as she did with me.

A creative way of using Chinese pearls in jewelry from A & Z Pearls.

Berger leads what has become known as the Pearl Walk, where she takes pearl experts and enthusiasts in the jewelry industry to a handful of pearl exhibitors where they present new products, interesting finds and provide a personal account of the industry. This year we visited five pearl wholesale suppliers: American Pearl Company, King’s Ransom, A & Z Pearls, Imperial Deltah and Sea Hunt Pearls.

At top blister pearls and below fossilized pearls from Kansas.

Providing information for consumers to make good, informed choices when buying jewelry is one of the goals of my blog. However, I am not a pearl expert. If you go to the websites of these companies you’ll gain a great deal of knowledge about pearls. Also, check out the Pearl-Guide website.

American Pearl Company

This company specializes in American natural and cultured pearls. In these two videos, Gina Latendresse, president of the Nashville, Tenn.-based company shows fossilized pearls found in Kansas and examples of blister pearls, a pearl that developed attached to the inside of a mollusk's shell.

King’s Ransom

Betty Sue King, the self-claimed “Pearl Goddess,” shows a variety of examples of Chinese nucleated freshwater pearls that her Sausalito, Calif.-based company has in its inventory. As an added bonus, pearl expert Elisabeth Strack of the Gemological Institute of Hamburg, explains the species of the pearl.

A & Z Pearls

In the first video, Avi Raz of the Los Angeles-based company discusses the improved quality of the Chinese pearls and how one can create jewelry from it. A picture of the piece of jewelry being passed around is above. In the second video, Raz shows how he meets market demands for lower prices without reducing quality by mixing pearls with colored gemstones in jewelry.

Imperial-Deltah

In these two videos, the appraisers in the audience couldn’t contain their excitement when Peter Bazar of the East Providence, R.I. based company showed their inventory of “crown” quality Akoyas, Golden South Seas and “crown” quality freshwater pearls.

Sea Hunt Pearls

Jack Lynch of the San Francisco-based company that specializes in Asian cultured pearls shows a variety of Chinese nucleated pearls in various colors and sizes so large that he was unable to measure them with his millimeter gauge.

More videos from the Pearl Walk are available at the Jewelry News Network channel on YouTube.