Nominations Being Accepted for JNA Awards

2012 JNA award winners

Applications and nominations are now being accepted for the second annual JNA Awards, which honors and recognizes excellence and innovation in the jewelry industry with a focus on the Asian trade. Individuals or organizations interested in participating can fill out an enrollment form on the JNA Awards website. The deadline is May 15.

The 2013 JNA Awards award categories are as follows:

* Brand of the Year Award: Retail
* Employer of the Year Award
* Innovator of the Year Award: Manufacturing - business operations
* Innovator of the Year Award: Manufacturing - Technology Application
* Manufacturer of the Year Award: colored gemstone cutting and processing
* Manufacturer of the Year Award: diamond cutting and processing
* Manufacturer of the Year Award: precious stones inlaid jewelry
* Manufacturer of the Year Award: prime precious metal jewelry
* Outstanding Contribution Award
* Outstanding Business of the Year Award: India
* Outstanding Business of the Year Award: China Mainland
* Annual retailer awards
* Annual networking platform for retailers Awards
* The annual jewelry store Excellent Interior Design Awards
* Sustainable development awards
* Outstanding Young Entrepreneur of the Year Award (40 years old or less)

Companies and individuals may submit entries on behalf of themselves or others from mid-March to mid-May. The first stage of the judging process will begin in mid-May and end in mid-June. On June 20 the honorees or shortlisted candidates will be announced. The honorees and recipients will be feted at a gala dinner and presentation ceremony at the Grand Hyatt Hong Kong on September 12 during the September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair 2013.

Awards ceremony and dinner tickets are now available at the JNA Awards website.

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LVMH Watch and Jewelry Revenue Down 1%

LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, said Monday that first quarter revenue for its Watches and Jewelry division fell 1 percent to 624 million euros ($815.6 million) due to cautious buying by multi-brand retailers. It was the only business division in the luxury goods conglomerate to show a decline in revenue for the period. In organic terms (with comparable structure and constant exchange rates), revenue grew 2 percent.

TAG Heuer’s first quarter was marked by the 50th anniversary of its Carrera line and the new partnership with McLaren which was announced at the Geneva Motor Show. Hublot and Zenith also had a good start to the year. In jewelry, Bulgari “recorded strong revenue growth in its own stores,” largely based on the success of its Serpenti line.

Other brands in the division are Hublot, Zenith, Chaumet, Fred and De Beers Diamond Jewellers.

LVMH said total revenue for the 2013 fiscal year increased 6 percent to 6.94 billion euros ($9.07 billion). Organic revenue growth was 7 percent compared to the same period in 2012, which saw a sharp rise.

The Paris-based conglomerate—whose brands also include Moët Chandon, Louis Vuitton, Dior and Sephora—said it saw “strong growth” in Asia and the United States, while Europe “demonstrates good resistance despite a challenging economic environment.”

First quarter results in its other business division are as follows:

The Wines & Spirits division recorded a revenue rise of 6 percent. Champagne sales were “notably robust” in Asia, which compensated for softer demand in Europe. Hennessy cognac had a “solid performance” in the United States and “rapid growth” in China.

The Fashion & Leather Goods division was nearly flat year-over (0.4%) Louis Vuitton “continued its progress,” the company said. Fendi “benefited from continued developments in fur and leather and pursues” and Céline “made excellent progress” in its own stores.

Perfumes & Cosmetics division experienced a 5 percent increase for the period. Christian Dior recorded “solid growth” due to the “vitality of its perfumes and, in particular, the continued strength of J’adore, Miss Dior and Dior Homme. The new lipstick Dior Addict and the premium skincare Prestige also contributed to the brand’s growth. Guerlain continued to benefit from the strong momentum of La Petite Robe Noire and the success of its high-end skincare Orchidée Impériale,” the company said.

In the Selective Retailing division showed a 16 percent increase for the period. DFS had an “excellent performance driven by the continued growth in Asian tourism.” Sephora gained market share in all its regions as it continues to expand its global store network. Online sales also experienced “rapid growth.”

“In an economic environment which remains uncertain in Europe, LVMH will continue to focus its efforts on developing its brands, will maintain a strict control over costs and will target its investments on the quality, the excellence and the innovation of its products and their distribution,” the company said. 


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Dominion Diamond Completes $553 million Acquisition of Ekati Diamond Mine

Ekati Diamond Mine

Dominion Diamond Corp., formerly known as Harry Winston Diamond Corp., said Wednesday it has completed its acquisition of the Ekati Diamond Mine in Canada’s Northwest Territories and related diamond sorting and sales facilities in Yellowknife, Canada, and Antwerp, Belgium. The Canadian subsidiary of mining company BHP Billiton was the majority owner of the mine and the other facilities. BHP is exiting the diamond business to concentrate on other mining activities.

The purchase price was $500 million plus price adjustments of $53 million for items that include interest, tax and capital expenditures bringing the total amount paid to $553 million. On the date of closing Ekati had cash on hand of approximately $65 million and two sales cycles (10 weeks) of diamond inventory either in the process of being sorted and valued or available for sale. Dominion Diamond said the inventory will be valued against its rough diamond sales assortments.

Dominion Diamond also provided letters of credit to the Government of Canada of approximately CAD$127 million, in support of reclamation obligations for the Core Zone. The purchase price and the letters of credit were satisfied from or secured by cash on hand.

The Ekati Diamond Mine consists of the Core Zone, which includes the current operating mine and other permitted kimberlite pipes, as well as the Buffer Zone, an adjacent area hosting kimberlite pipes having both development and exploration potential.

Dominion Diamond funded the acquisition through its recent $1 billion sale of the Harry Winston luxury retail brand to Swatch Group. The company also owns a 40 percent stake in the Diavik Diamond Mine, also in the Northwest Territories of Canada. The acquisition of Ekati has made the company the largest supplier of Canadian diamonds.

Dominion Diamond is still flush with cash and the speculation is it will use the money to buy the remaining 60 percent interest in the Diavik Diamond Mine from mining company Rio Tinto, which has, like BHP, stated a desire to pull out of the diamond business to focus on other mining activities.

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Zambia Restriction on Gem Sales A Major Setback for Gemfields

Mila Kunis in a Gemfields ad.

The Zambia Ministry of Mines, Energy and Water Development issued a directive Friday stating that all auctioning of emeralds be held in Zambia, arguing that their sale in foreign markets contributes to capital flight. The timing of this order has dealt a major blow to the emerald ambitions of Gemfields, which operates what is believed to be the world’s largest emerald mine in Zambia.

The government in a statement said the directive is designed to promote transparency and accountability in the marketing of emeralds, stimulate local demand for emeralds, create more opportunities for small-scale miners to have access to colored gemstone markets, and increase tourism.

“Zambian gemstones have for a long time been sold on foreign markets, a situation that has contributed to capital flight and denied Zambians of the much needed benefits from the resource,” Yamfwa Mukanga, Zambia mining minister, said in the statement.

The move seemed to have come as a surprise to the London-listed company and the markets. Gemfields shares fell 16 percent Monday after the government announcement. In the past, Gemfields held its emerald auctions in other locations, including Singapore and in Jaipur, India. The next auction of its emeralds was already planned to be held in Zambia’s capital city of Lusaka from April 15 - 19.

The company is in partnership with the country of Zambia, which makes this seemingly sudden announcement more difficult to understand. Gemfields owns a 75 percent stake in the Kagem emerald mine with the government owning the remaining 25 percent. In addition, the two parties own a 50-50 stake in the Kariba amethyst mine, which will also be affected by the outside selling ban.

“Not allowing Gemfields to auction abroad is going to take us out of the competition with Brazil and Colombia, which holds 30 percent each of the world's supply of emeralds,” Dev Shetty, Gemfields COO, told Reuters.

The company that wants to do for emeralds what De Beers did for diamonds in the 20th Century recently had a string of marketing successes. It signed actress Mila Kunis as its ambassador; released an emerald-specific colored gemstone jewelry line made by independent jewelry designers ranging from Theo Fennell and Stephen Webster, Shaun Leane and Alexandra Mor; and finalized the acquisition of luxury jeweler Fabergé.

Since 2007, Gemfields has been creating a mine-to-market initiative for its emeralds using the Kagem mine as a single, traceable source for its emeralds. In addition, it is working on a program to mine its emeralds in adherence to fair-trade practices and in accordance with environmental, social and safety standards.

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Birks Unveils 16-Carat Fancy Yellow Diamond

The Birks jewelry store in Edmonton, Canada, is selling a 16.01-carat fancy intense yellow diamond set on a diamond pavé platinum ring. The natural colored, Asscher cut, VVS1 diamond was recently discovered and is conflict-free, according to the Birks jewelry chain. The ring is on sale for CAD$1.8 million ($1.7 million).

The ring will be on view and on sale at the Birks store in Manulife Place until April 16 before moving to the Birks store in the Core shopping center in Calgary.

Birks is 30-store fine jewelry retail chain in Canada. It is part of Birks & Mayors, which also operates 23 stores under the Mayors brand in Florida and Georgia, two retail locations in Calgary and Vancouver under the Brinkhaus brand, and one retail location in Orlando under the Rolex brand.

The Former Harry Winston Diamond Corp. Files First Earnings Report Under New Name; Ekati Mine Acquisition Is Approved; Frédéric de Narp Reportedly Resigns

The new Dominion Diamond Corp. logo.

Dominion Diamond Corp., the company formerly known as Harry Winston Diamond Corp., said that consolidated sales from continuing operations increased 8 percent to $110.1 million for the fourth quarter. The increase was the result of an improved sales mix, partially offset by a 3 percent decrease in volume of carats sold during the quarter. It also cited increased demand in India, China and the United States.

Meanwhile, operating profit from continuing operations fell 12 percent in the quarter ended Jan 31 to $21 million. Consolidated EBITDA from continuing operations decreased 6 percent to $45.3 million.

Net income from continuing operations fell to $12.1 million, or 14 cents per share, from $12.7 million, or 15 cents per share, a year earlier.

Since 2006, the company operated as two segments: a luxury retail jewelry and watch division under the iconic Harry Winston brand name and a diamond mining business. The company closed its sale of the luxury brand segment to the Swatch Group Ltd. on March 26 in a deal valued at $1 billion. As part of the closing of the transaction, the company changed its name to Dominion Diamond Corp. and its common shares now trade on both the Toronto and New York stock exchanges under the symbol DDC.

The company now operates solely as diamond mining and marketing business and its earnings report reflects this with the results of the luxury brand segment treated as discontinued operations for accounting and reporting purposes.

Other fourth quarter highlights include:

* Rough diamond production during the fourth calendar quarter increased 19 percent to 1.9 million carats.

* The company had 500,000 carats of rough diamond inventory with an estimated current market value of approximately $65 million at January 31, of which approximately $25 million represents rough diamond inventory available for sale, with the remaining $40 million being sorted.

In related news:

* The company previously said it received regulatory approval to complete the $500 million acquisition of the Ekati diamond mine in Canada’s Northwest Territories and diamond sorting and sales facilities in Yellowknife, Canada, and Antwerp and Belgium, from mining company BHP Billiton Canada Inc. Dominion said it expects the transaction to close on or about April 10. It was speculated that the sale of the luxury retail segment was used to finance the acquisition.

* In addition, the company is reportedly interested in buying the remaining stake in Diavik diamond mine. It currently owns a 40 percent share of the mine with the remaining interest owned by mining company Rio Tinto, as Rio has stated a desire to pull out of the diamond business.

* Frédéric de Narp, president and CEO of the Harry Winston luxury segment, has resigned, according to a report in the New York Post. Nayla Hayek, a Swatch board member and daughter of the company’s founder Nicolas Hayek, has assumed de Narp’s role.

“The last year and this first quarter has been a time of great positive change for the company, including changing its very identity,” said Robert Gannicott, Dominion Diamond Corp.’s chairman and CEO. “This change reflects a focus on the production, sorting and sale of diamonds from Northern Canada, a region that we know and understand well. The acquisition of the Ekati Mine, and its operating team, is expected to close next week giving us operational control of both a producing mine and development opportunities in the large scale resources on the Ekati property. Together with our exploration acreage adjacent to the Ekati and Diavik properties, this positions us from grass-roots exploration through development opportunities. We also become the largest supplier of Canadian diamonds sold through an expert sorting and marketing chain that we have perfected through the years of Diavik production.” 

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Style of Jolie Jewelry Collection Funds Girls School in Afghanistan

Angelina Jolie in a black spinel necklace she designed with Robert Procop.

Angelina Jolie has reportedly said that the all-girls school she is building in Afghanistan funded by her eponymous jewelry collection has opened.

The actress and philanthropist told E! News that the school located outside of Kabul educates from 200 to 300 students. It was funded by the Style of Jolie jewelry line—a collection of jewelry created by Jolie and Robert Procop, a gem expert, private jeweler and jewelry designer. She told E! that the new school will be one of many girls schools that will be built and funded through the jewelry collection.

The "Angelina Jolie Exceptional Emerald Necklace" features 44 cushion cut emeralds with a total weight of 103.48 carats, many of which have attained the exclusive gemstone classification of vivid green. The necklace is sculpted in 18K yellow gold. Photo credit: Robert Procop Exceptional Jewels

The high jewelry pieces for the Style of Jolie collection are known for using statement gemstones cut in the shape of tablet, an exclusive feature. Procop told me in an interview published in January that Jolie wanted something with an historical message and spent a great deal of time studying how a tablet is held. Together they designed the shape. 

View the Style of Jolie jewelry collection.

All proceeds from the sales are used to build schools for girls in impoverished countries through the Education Partnerships for Children of Conflicts, co-founded by Jolie.

At the time of the interview in his Beverly Hills studio Procop pointed to the ring and said: “This is a 27-carat emerald. When the stone is sold we give the money to the charity and then we build another school.”

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