Sunday, April 21, 2013

Another Wave of Innovation From Outside the Jewelry Industry with Consumer-Friendly Websites


The jewelry industry has an image problem. Younger consumers find the jewelry store environment intimidating. More importantly, these same consumers, who spend much of their time with digital media, find websites from retailers, designers and manufacturers equally imposing.

Innovation online has largely come from outside the industry, such as website Blue Nile. However, the Blue Nile model with its focus on jewelry and diamonds as a commodity seems to be losing ground as the digital landscape has again dramatically changed with the wide acceptance of social and mobile media.

To address this new reality, two websites (again founded by people outside the industry) have launched that are working to bridge the gap among e-commerce, social media and bricks-and-mortar retail: Adornia and Stone & Strand.




These well-branded projects have a lot in common. They are focused on delivering a quality experience by attempting to build a community of enthusiastic and engaged jewelry buyers. They both are using a curated approach to their business models. The founders of both sites are products of the Wharton School of the University of Pennsylvania. In addition, these founders also have a wealth of professional and personal experiences that have enhanced the vision of their projects.

Adornia co-founders Becca Aronson and Moran Amir met at Wharton and didn’t wait to leave the business school before starting their own company. Both are scheduled to graduate in May but launched Adornia in September 2012 out of their apartments. They plan to return to New York to set up a permanent home for their business. Aronson was the former Lucky accessories editor and Amir handled retail operations for Catherine Malandrino and Diesel. Their experiences are complementary with Aronson the creative person while Aronson handles much of the business. “She’s Photoshop and I’m PowerPoint,” Amir says.

The website sells affordable fine fashion jewelry at a price range from approximately $75 to $2,300. Their customer is very specific: fashion-forward, professional, urban women from the ages of 25 to 45 who have a strong sense of personal style. This site’s main customers are women who buy their own jewelry (the self-purchasing woman).

Aronson and Amir purchase all of the jewelry themselves. In addition to curating the pieces, they organize them in separate collections with names like “Heavy Metal,” “Deco After Dark” and “Darkest Jungle.” The idea is to make personal jewelry shopping easier for women who know their own style. While the site is geared for women, they say that this presentation also makes it easier for men and friends to purchase gifts. They also discuss fashion trends through their blog, “The United States of Adornia.”

The co-founders take their brand to the people, holding trunk shows from San Francisco to Shanghai, China. One of their plans is to do a cross country bus tour.

Meanwhile, Wharton grad Nadine McCarthy Kahane launched her website, Stone & Strand, April 18. A former strategy consultant, she has traveled extensively for work and pleasure and has lived in Singapore, London and Buenos Aires before settling in New York.

Instead of curating the jewelry collection like Adornia, Kahane is curating a group of jewelry designers. She opened the site with a group of 24 designers. The result is a broad jewelry collection that ranges in material from wood to high-karat gold and in price from $115 to well over $20,000. For now all of the designers reside in the U.S. (although several are from other countries) but Kahane said she will expand to include designers from around the world.

This is a site geared toward a clientele who love the search for original adornment almost as much as they love wearing the pieces. “People want things they can fall in love with,” Kahane says. It’s really nice to be able to tap into that passion.”

On this website, the focus is totally on designers. Their works and their stories are presented front and center. They provide access to designers’ studios through personal meetings and special events.

For Kahane the inspiration to start this site was personal. First, she discussed the difficulties of learning about jewelry on her own (such as style, materials and cost). Then she said she has two friends who are jewelry designers who were having difficulty finding an online home for their work.

“We in business are trained to spot opportunities and we feel jewelry is going through this transformation,” she said. “It’s been so conservative. A lot of the designers don’t sell online or they sell a very small portion of their collection online. We do see things changing quickly. We see people buying off Instagram these days. It’s all about access.”

Another thing both sites share is free shipping to U.S. and customer-friendly return policies. Of course both brands appear on all of the standard social media platforms.


Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes Website.

Friday, April 19, 2013

Technical Innovations and Aesthetic Developments of Timepieces on Display at the Frick Museum


The Portico Gallery of the Frick Collection museum where the timepiece exhibit is being held.

An exhibition that just opened at the Frick Collection museum explores the discoveries and innovations made in the field of horology from the early 16th to the 19th century. It features 16 clocks and 14 watches that chronicle the evolution over the centuries of more accurate and complex timekeepers and illustrate the aesthetic developments that reflected Europe’s latest styles. 

Mantel Clock with Study and Philosophy (circa 1785 - 1790). Made of patinated and gilt bronze, marble, enameled metal, and glass. Movement by Renacle-Nicolas Sotiau, figures after Simon-Louis Boizot. Photo credit: Michael Bodycomb

Titled, “Precision and Splendor: Clocks and Watches,” the exhibition is being shown in the new light-filled Portico Gallery of the stately mansion that was once the home of American industrialist Henry Clay Frick. The exhibition will run till February 2014.

Breguet Decimal Watch by Abraham-Louis Breguet and Antoine-Louis Breguet. Gold and silver double-dial desk watch showing decimal and traditional time. The traditional time subdial was added approximately 12 years after by Antoine (Circa 1795 and after 1807).

Luxury watch brand, Breguet, is a major sponsor. The exhibition concludes with three of its early timepieces—including a watch that displayed “decimal time,” a short-lived movement in 18th Century France that divided the day into ten hours and the year into ten months. 

Breguet gilt-bronze Carriage Clock by Abraham-Louis Breguet and Antoine-Louis Breguet with Calendar (1811).

The exhibition, which I attended Wednesday, examines both the mechanical innovations that increased the accuracy of the timepieces along with the elaborate ornamentation. At first, these pieces were prized for their innovation and their beauty and owned by only the wealthiest individuals as show pieces. Slowly through technical advancements that made them more portable, less expensive, more reliable and more of a necessity, they became widely available. 

Gilt-Brass and Silver Table Clock with Astronomical and Calendrical Dials (Circa 1653). Photo credit: Michael Bodycomb

The existence of mechanical clocks was made possible by an invention known as an escapement. Falling weights (and later springs) provided the energy to power the clock’s mechanism, while the escapement regulated the rate at which that energy was delivered to the oscillator (at first a simple balance and later a pendulum). The introduction of the escapement gradually caused the shift away from time-finding devices (sundials) and time-measuring devices (water clocks) to timekeepers (clocks and later watches) as advances in science and technology were made.

Gold and Enamel Pendant Watch (back view). Movement by Henry Arlaud enameling by Pierre Huaud II (circa 1685) It depicts the painting "The Toilet of Venus" by Simon Vouet. Photo credit: Michael Bodycomb

In addition to the Breuget timepieces, other notable pieces in the collection include an Augsburg Maker, gilt-brass tower table clock (circa 1580), which displays time only by the hour; a spring-driven pendulum clock on a bracket in a elaborate case made of gilt bronze, enameled metal, and glass (circa 1735); and a gold and enamel pendant watch (circa 1685) that depicts the painting The Toilet of Venus by Simon Vouet.

The Frick Collection galleries is located at 1 East 70th St.


Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes Website.

Thursday, April 18, 2013

Pandora Names Allan Leighton as CEO

Allan Leighton
Pandora said Thursday that Allan Leighton, current chairman of the jewelry company, will succeed Bjørn Gulden as CEO on July 1.

Gulden is stepping down to join sports brand, Puma, as its new CEO. Pandora’s board of directors will recommend that Gulden remain part of the company as a board member.

Marcello Bottoli, who is currently deputy chairman, will succeed Leighton as board chairman.


Bjørn Gulden
“Pandora is a great business which is performing well, but the sports industry has always been a major part of my life, and my role at PUMA will also allow my family to remain in Germany,” Gulden, a former professional soccer player said in a statement.

Leighton added: “Bjørn, Marcello, the management team and I have worked very closely on delivering on the company strategy and the board believes that continuity in that execution and understanding of the business is key to our continued success.”

The Danish manufacturer, marketer, distributor and retailer of fine jewelry is still recovering from a very difficult 2011, which saw a sudden 70 percent drop in its stock price following a less than glowing second quarter report that year. Prior to that drop the company, which designs its popular charm bracelets and silver jewelry in Copenhagen and manufacturers them in Thailand, was the darling of jewelry retailers and the investment community as it experienced spectacular growth. The company’s IPO in 2010 raised $2.1 billion.

Gulden began at Pandora in March of 2012 and by November 2012 the company, working off a stock rebalancing program, returned to profitability in the third quarter reporting a revenue increase of 14.3 percent, year-over-year, and net profit increase of 11.4 percent. However, it wasn’t enough to save the year as revenue for 2012 was essentially flat while net profit fell 41 percent.


Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes Website.

Wednesday, April 17, 2013

74-Carat Diamond Fetches A Record $14.1 Million


A 74.79-carat, pear-shaped diamond sold for more than $14.1 million at Sotheby’s New York Magnificent Jewels sale Wednesday, setting a new auction record for any white diamond sold in the Americas and surpassing its $12 million high estimate.

The unnamed gem is one of very few pear-shaped diamonds of D color over 50 carats to be auctioned in recent decades, Sotheby’s said.

“The truly exceptional 74.79 carat stone was a thrill to auction, and exemplifies the strength of the market for white diamonds over the last decade,” said Lisa Hubbard, chairman, North & South America, Sotheby’s International Jewelry Division. “It was acquired by the present owner in 2001 for $4.3 million, and today sold for a record $14.2 million.”

The Magnificent Jewels sale brought in nearly $53.5 million, marking a new record sum for a spring auction of jewelry at Sotheby’s New York, with more than 82.4 percent sold by lot.

A group of six jewels from the family of financier and railroad magnate Jay Gould sold for a combined $7.9 million, more than double its high estimate of $3 million. The group was led by an emerald and diamond brooch centered by a 22.48-carat Colombian emerald that sold for $2.9 million– nearly five times its high estimate of $600,000.

Cartier’s ‘Tutti-Frutti’ bracelet (circa 1930), made of platinum, carved rubies and emeralds, diamonds and pearls, which closed the sale, sold for $1.4 million, nearly three times its high estimate of $500,000.


Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes Website.

Tuesday, April 16, 2013

The Princie Diamond Sells for a Record Breaking $39.3 Million

The 34..65-carat Princie Diamond

Update: A 34.65-carat fancy intense pink cushion-cut diamond sold for more than $39.3 million at Christie’s New York Spring Magnificent Jewels auction Tuesday.The sale price represents a new record for any jewel sold at Christie’s, surpassing the previous house record of $24.3 million set in December 2008 with the sale of the Wittelsbach Diamond.

Known as the Princie Diamond, its origins can be traced back to the ancient diamond mines of Golconda in South Central India. It was first recorded among the holdings of the Royal family of Hyderabad, rulers of one of the wealthiest provinces of the Mughal Empire.

The sale price, which comes out to more than $1.1 million per carat, also set a record for being the most valuable diamond to ever come out of the famed mine, according to the auction house. It was purchased by an anonymous collector bidding by phone.

“A major event took place in the global auction industry with the record breaking sale of The Princie Diamond at Christie’s New York,” said Rahul Kadakia, Head of Jewelry, Christie’s Americas and Switzerland.

The Type IIa diamond, considered the most chemically pure and often having exceptional optical transparency, was first offered at auction in 1960 as “Property of a Gentleman,” who was later revealed to be the Nizam of Hyderabad himself. The diamond was purchased by the London branch of Van Cleef & Arpels for £46,000. The diamond’s unique name was bestowed at a party at the firm’s Paris store, where it was christened the “Princie” in honor of the 14-year-old Prince of Baroda, who attended the party with his mother Maharani Sita. 

 The total sale of over 290 jewels realized a combined total of more than $81.35 million, "marking the highest various owner jewelry sale total in the United States," according to the auction house.

"Aside from Christie’s sale of the legendary Collection of Elizabeth Taylor, this was the most successful jewelry auction ever held in the United States,”
Kadakia said.

Other highlights of the sale, which marked the first jewelry sale of the spring season for Christie’s, included:


* A 30.32-carat rectangular-cut diamond ring (pictured above) that sold for more than $4.4 million, well above its high estimate of $4 million. The diamond set on a platinum ring is flanked on either side by a tapered baguette-cut diamond.

* A 23.30-carat marquise-cut diamond, flanked on either side by a tapered baguette-cut diamond, mounted in platinum sold for nearly $3.26 million.

* A necklace designed as a graduated cluster of pear and oval-cut diamonds mounted in platinum by William Goldberg sold for nearly $1.86 million.

* A ring centered with an 11.08-carat, oval-cut ruby surrounded by two rows of circular cut diamonds mounted on platinum sold for more than $1.7 million.

* A 35.60-carat cut-cornered modified rectangular-cut fancy pink-brown diamond mounted in platinum and 18k pink gold sold for more than $1.6 million. The diamond was flanked on either side by a tapered baguette-cut diamond.

* A diamond necklace suspending a pendant set with a pear-shaped diamond weighing approximately 12.04 carats sold for nearly $1.4 million, well above its high estimate of $1.1 million.


* An 11.39-carat rectangular-cut diamond mounted on a platinum ring (pictured above) sold for more than $1.3 million.
 

* An emerald and diamond necklace by Harry Winston (1955) that sold for $1.2 million (pictured above). It was designed as a graduated double row of rectangular-cut emeralds, extending a pear and circular-cut diamond fringe, joined by circular and pear-shaped diamond clusters to the circular-cut diamond double row backchain, mounted on platinum.
 

* A 17.5-inch, three-strand natural pearl necklace comprising 61, 58 and 61 natural pearls, measuring from approximately 4.95 to 11.05 mm sold for $1.1 million (pictured above).

* A 37.47-carat rectangular-cut diamond, flanked on either side by an epaulette-cut diamond and mounted in platinum sold for more than $1.1 million.

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes Web site

Asia’s Fashion Jewellery & Accessories Fair Reports Strong Growth in Buyers and Exhibitors


Asia’s Fashion Jewellery & Accessories Fair – March reported an attendance increase of 9.7 percent compared to the prior year’s edition. The event held March 4 – 7 in Halls 3, 6 & 8 of the AsiaWorld-Expo, Hong Kong had a total of 4,255 unique visitors from 89 countries and regions.

“The fair results are certainly very encouraging,” said Celine Lau, director of Jewellery Fairs at UBM Asia Ltd., which owns the trade fair.

The United States, Australia, the United Kingdom, Italy, Spain, Taiwan region, Japan, Russian Federation, Germany and Korea were the top visitors at the show (not including mainland China and Hong Kong). The top 10 altogether accounted for 36.5 percent of the total number of visitors.

Meanwhile, the fair hosted 411 exhibitors—up 6.5 percent from last year—from 21 countries and regions. There were four group pavilions and three theme pavilions. Group pavilions from mainland China, Korea, the Philippines and Taiwan region demonstrated distinct market specialties. Three theme pavilions—“Sense Zone”, “Fashion Accessories Zone” and “Stainless Steel Jewellery Pavilion”—provided a range of on-trend fashion jewelry and accessories.

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes Web site.

Aaron Faber Gallery to Host ‘Dramatic Jewelry: The Five Masters’

"The Blow Shadow" by Paolo Marcolongo

The works of five international jewelry artists will be on display beginning May 9 at Aaron Faber Gallery in an exhibition titled, “Dramatic Jewelry: The Five Masters.” 

"Folded leaf with Pearl" by Michael Good

The exhibition at the gallery in New York will feature the works of Charlotte De Syllas of Great Britan; Paolo Marcolongo of Italy; Michael Good of the U.S.; and Peter Schmid of Atelier Zobel and Tom and Jutta Munsteiner, all of Germany.

Ring "Play of Color by Tom and Jutta Munsteiner

The exhibition opens May 9 with a book signing hosted by Tom and Jutta Munsteiner, honoring Wilhelm Lindemann’s literary work, “Munsteiner: The Young Generation Tom + Jutta Munsteiner”. Also in attendance will be Bernd Munsteiner, the “Picasso of Gems” and father to both Tom and the optical style of the “fantasy gem cut."

Garnet Engraved Brooch 2012, set in 18k green gold and backed with gold foil by Charlotte De Syllas.

On May 18 Aaron Faber Gallery will present an “Afternoon with Michael Good,” a reception and lecture where the jeweler will discuss his life, his work and his upcoming sold-out workshop at the 92nd Street Y.

Both events are free and open to the public.
Aaron Faber Gallery is located at 666 Fifth Avenue, New York.

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes Web site.