25-Carat Ruby Ring By Cartier Fetches World Auction Record $30.4 Million

Additional reporting by Gretchen Friedrich, Jewelry News Network social media manager

The 25.59-carat “Sunrise Ruby” by Cartier smashes estimates to fetch $30.38 million, a world record for a price of a ruby at auction. It was the surprising top lot Sotheby’s Geneva Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels Sale held Tuesday at the Hôtel Beau-Rivage. 

Known as the “Sunrise Ruby,” it’s described as a “unique treasure of nature” by the Swiss Gemmological Institute. The ruby didn’t receive any heat treatment and the color is described by that famous auction moniker for exceptional rubies, “pigeon’s blood” red: the rarest and most sought-after of hues. 

The ruby was the high point in a jewelry auction that saw many highs, taking in approximately $134 million, with 93.5 percent of the 484 lots sold. The top ten results were a mix of colored gems and diamonds along with white diamonds, natural pearls and three other Cartier jewels. 

Going into the auction, the top lot was expected to be the “Historic Pink,”  (pictured above) an 8.72-carat Fancy Vivid Pink diamond that the auction house described as “extremely rare and highly important.” This turned out to be the second highest lot of the sale, fetching $16 million, within its estimate. The jewel is believed to have been part of the collection of Princess Mathilde, the niece of Napoleon Bonaparte. The stone, which has VS2 clarity, is also distinguished by its classic non-modified cushion cut, unusual in a pink diamond, Sotheby’s said. 

A custom-made diamond necklace of more than 190 carats by Cartier (pictured above) sold for $7.25 million. The piece was designed as a cascade of diamonds, the front accented with a floral motif and suspending a fringe of nine pear-shaped stones.

Despite an auction season that has had its share of high and lows, one category of jewelry that continues to see consistently higher prices are natural pearls. This auction didn’t disappoint as three pearl jewels were among the top 10 lots.

The first was a natural pearl and diamond necklace that has at least least some Cartier lineage (signed clasp and case stamp) that sold for $7 million (pictured above), well above its high estimate. It is composed of two graduated strands of 78 natural pearls on a clasp set with a marquise-shaped diamond weighing 4.39 carats.

In addition, a single strand necklace composed of a graduated row of natural pearls measuring from 7.95 to 12.40mm, on a barrel clasp set with brilliant-cut diamonds sold for $3.8 million, totally obliterating its high estimate of approximately $527,000.

The other Cartier pieces that sparkled at the auction were a brooch set with a 30.23-carat Kashmir sapphire that sold for $6.1 million; and sapphire and diamond earrings of the same design made with two Burmese Mogok sapphires of 15.77 and 16.90 carats. This sold for $3.43 million, well above its high estimate.

The other top lots are as follows:

* A 32-carat colorless diamond ring sold for more than $4 million. It was one of two colorless diamonds among the top 10 lots.

* The other was a pair of earrings each suspending a cushion-shaped diamond weighing 10.02 and 10.03 carats, from a line of single-cut diamonds, which sold for $3.2 million.

* Rounding out the top 10 was a natural pearl and diamond ear clips that sold for $3.2 million.

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100-Carat Diamond Sells For $22 Million At Sotheby’s

Sotheby’s called it the “perfect’ and “ultimate” diamond and “unlike any other before.” Now it can be called the $22 million diamond.

The 100.20-carat, D-Color, Internally Flawless, emerald-cut diamond was easily the top lot Tuesday at Sotheby’s New York Magnificent Jewels sale.

The Type IIa gem joins a group of only five other diamonds of more than 100 carats with similar attributes that have been sold at auction worldwide, the auction house said. The gem is further distinguished by its emerald cut, making it the largest perfect diamond with a classic emerald-cut ever to be offered at auction.

The gem came from a rough that weighed more than 200 carats and was mined by De Beers in southern Africa. It took more than a year to craft the diamond from the rough.

Gary Schuler, head of Sotheby’s Jewelry Department in New York, compared the diamond to “a pool of icy water.”

The sale price (which includes buyer’s premium) was within its estimate and amounts to $220,459 per carat. The buyer was not named.

The auction totaled nearly $65.1 million in which 79.9 percent was sold by lot and 84.4 percent by value. The other best-selling lots were dominated by colored diamonds and gems, particularly Kashmir sapphires. Cartier pieces were also in high demand.

The other top lots from the Magnificent Jewels sale are as follows:

* A 22.30-carat Internally Flawless oval diamond ring sold for $3.25 million ($145,740 per carat).

* The 35.02-carat Flagler Emerald, described as an important emerald-cut classic Colombian emerald and diamond pendant, sold for $2.77 million ($79,098 per carat)—well above its high estimate of $1.5 million.

* The Baron de Rothschild Necklace, described as an emerald, sapphire, lapis lazuli and diamond pendant-Necklace, designed by Charles Jacqueau for Cartier, Paris, circa 1924, sold for $2.59 million.

* A 6.24-carat, pear-shaped fancy purplish pink diamond with VVS2 clarity and Kashmir sapphire ring and sold for $2.4 million ($386,218 per carat).

* An 11.41-carat, Internally Flawless, round-cornered rectangular modified brilliant-cut fancy light pink diamond and diamond ring sold for $1.9 million.

* An 11.90-carat Kashmir sapphire and diamond ring of by Cartier, circa 1915, sold for $1.9 million ($162,185 per carat).

* Iconic emerald, ruby, diamond and enamel ‘Tutti Frutti’ Bracelet, Cartier, New York, circa 1928, sold for $1.6 million.

* 14.33-carat marquise-shaped diamond ring, D color and VVS1 clarity, sold for $1.15 million ($80,251 per carat).

* A 17-carat Kashmir sapphire and diamond brooch by Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co., circa 1960, formerly from the collection of Mrs. Paul Mellon sold for just over $1 million ($60,588 per carat).

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Christie’s, Sotheby’s Combine for $1.35 Billion in 2014 Jewelry Sales

The Zoe Diamond, 9.75-ct fancy vivid blue sold for $32.6 million at Sotheby’s

Wealthy investors, jewelry lovers and businesses continue to place their money into collectible jewelry, buying up statement diamonds, gems and pearls as well as signature jewelry collections.

The world’s largest auctions houses, Christie’s and Sotheby’s, reported record 2014 results in their jewelry departments, combining for more than $1.35 billion in total sales.

The results speak of the demand for high-quality baubles as well as the economic uncertainty and geopolitical tensions throughout the world. Jewelry seems to be one of the few places where the wealthy feel comfortable placing their money.

Christie’s year was the most impressive as the auction house reports a record total of $754.7 million in 2014, saying it is the highest annual result ever achieved for jewelry at any auction house. The total also represents an 11 percent year-over-year increase. Christie’s Geneva led the company’s jewelry sales with $304.4 million total.

The results for the year included 149 jewels that sold for more than $1 million, including seven jewels that sold for more $10 million, 24 jewels that sold above $5 million and 72 jewels that sold for more than $2 million.

The Winston Blue, 13.22-carat pear-shaped fancy vivid blue flawless diamond sold for nearly $23.8 million

Christie’s most valuable sale in 2014 was The Winston Blue, a 13.22-carat pear-shaped fancy vivid blue flawless diamond, sold at Christie’s Geneva in May for nearly $23.8 million, or nearly $1.8 million per carat. It was acquired by the luxury jewelry brand, Harry Winston.

Its other biggest sale also occurred at Christie’s Geneva—this time during the November sale. The Blue Belle of Asia, a 392.52-carat Ceylon sapphire, sold for nearly $17.3 million, a record for any sapphire ever sold at auction.

Meanwhile, Sotheby’s reports that 2014 jewelry totaled $602.5 million—the third consecutive year of record sales for the auction house. The total represents a 13.8 percent year-over-year increase.

The results for the year include 77 jewels that sold for more than $1 million, with 69 percent of all sold lots exceeding their high estimates.

Among the two largest sales for 2014 was the Zoe Diamond, a 9.75-carat fancy vivid blue diamond from the collection of Mrs. Paul Mellon, which sold for $32.6 million at Sotheby’s New York in November. The stone set world auction records for any blue diamond and for the price-per-carat for any diamond, at more than $3.3 million per carat.

The other large sale was the Graff Vivid Yellow, at 100.09 carats, one of the largest fancy vivid yellow diamonds in the world. It sold for $16.3 million at Sotheby’s Geneva in November, setting world auction records for any yellow diamond and for any jewel by Graff.

The Cartier Hutton-Mdivani Necklace sold for more than $27.4 million.

Jadeite also did well for Sotheby’s Hong Kong. Its best sale in this category for the year was the Cartier created Hutton-Mdivani Necklace, which sold in April for more than $27.4 million, setting auction records for any jadeite jewel, for any non-diamond jewel and for any Cartier jewel and the second highest auction price for any jewel in 2014. It was purchased by The Cartier Collection.

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Lauren Bacall Auction to Include Jewelry by Schlumberger, Elizabeth Gage, Tiffany, Chanel and Cartier

Lauren Bacall wearing two 18k yellow gold ropework bracelets
 on the same wrist, designed by Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. Photo credit: NBC/NBC via Getty Images

Lauren Bacall is known for her beauty, her distinctive voice, her high-profile marriage to actor Humphrey Bogart and her impeccable taste. She was less known for her jewelry collection.

Two 18k yellow gold ropework bracelets by Jean Schlumberger with pre-sale estimates of $5,000 - $7,000 and $6,000 - $9,000. The actress was frequently pictured wearing the bracelets together (see top photo), layered on the same wrist. 

However, more than 30 items of the late actress’s jewelry will be part of the extensive 700-lot auction of the “Lauren Bacall Collection,” being offered by Bonhams New York on March 31 and April 1. It will include pieces by Chanel, Cartier, Tiffany, as well as her personal favorite, French jewelry designer Jean Schlumberger (1907-1987).

“Her jewelry was unique in that it reflected her personal taste and the fact she was very sentimental,” Susan Abeles, Bonhams’ head of Jewelry in the United States, said in a recent interview. “The pieces offered are timeless, understated and classic in design and represent the sophistication and glamour of a true Hollywood legend.”

Lauren Bacall wears Elizabeth Gage Camel Brooch while attending the Juvenile Diabetes Foundation Promise Ball Benefit Gala on
November 10, 1990, at Waldorf Astoria Hotel in New York. Photo credit: Ron Galella, Ltd.

Abeles, who has been spending a great deal of time researching the life of Lauren Bacall to prepare for the auction, said the actress “didn’t have a tremendous amount of jewelry.” But the collection of rings, bracelets, brooches and earrings had personal significance.

The Elizabeth Gage Mogul-inspired Camel Brooch is made of 18k yellow gold enamel, cultured pearl, and rose diamond. It has a pre-sale estimate of $5,000 - $7,000.

For example, Abeles showed me a Tiffany & Co. gold necklace with dangling gold hearts. Each heart has a letter that spells out the phrase, “To my own beautiful star from my proud director Ron.” Abeles said that she believes the necklace was a gift from Ron Field, who directed Bacall in the Broadway play, “Applause.” Both Bacall and Field won Tony awards for their parts in the play.

Tiffany & Co. 18k yellow gold necklace necklace, each dangling heart has a letter that spells out the phrase, “To my own beautiful star from my proud director Ron.” It is believed that the necklace was a gift from Ron Field, who directed Bacall in the Broadway play, “Applause.” Both won Tony awards. It is shown with a gold pocket watch.

Although it isn’t documented Abeles is certain that Bacall and Schlumberger were friends. Bacall purchased many of her most prized Schlumberger pieces in Paris, where the designer lived and worked.

“I do like that she had a relationship with the designer,” Abeles said. “She had a great thirst for knowledge.”

A sampling of the Schlumberger pieces that are up for auction at Bonhams.

Standout Schlumberger pieces from the collection (all pictured above) include an 18k yellow gold and blue enamel bangle bracelet (estimate $20,000 - $30,000); an 18k yellow gold, diamond, amethyst and turquoise ring designed by Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co., (estimate $8,000 - $12,000); and a pair of amethyst, sapphire and emerald ear clips, mounted by Schlumberger (estimate $6,700 - $8,500).

Perhaps Bacall's most icon jewelry pieces are two 18k yellow gold ropework bracelets, (estimate $5,000 - $7,000 and $6,000 - $9,000). The actress was frequently pictured wearing the bracelets together, layered on the same wrist (top two photos).

Bacall also had personal relationships with other jewelers. One auction highlight is a Mogul-inspired, 18k yellow gold, enamel, cultured pearl, and rose diamond camel brooch by the British jeweler, Elizabeth Gage, (estimate $5,000 - $7,000). The brooch is accompanied by the original drawing and correspondence from the jeweler, which reveals collaboration and friendship between the two.

“Bacall’s style was unmistakably her own,” Abeles said. “Her jewelry collection represents a woman who knew her own style—one who wore the jewelry rather than the jewelry wearing her. Pieces that might have overshadowed another woman perfectly complemented her beauty.”

Another highlights of the sale is a pair of diamond and grey South Sea cultured pearl ear pendants by Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co (estimate $4,600 - $6,700). 

Lauren Bacall

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Colorless Diamonds and Celebrated Collections Lead Sotheby’s Jewelry Sales

A platinum-topped gold and diamond necklace presented to Helen Hay on the occasion of her marriage to Payne Whitney in 1902 was the top lot at Sotheby’s Magnificent Jewels sale. 

The necklace (pictured above) features four diamonds ranging from F to H color, and weighing 27.48, 15.53, 13.08 and 8.91 carats respectively, the necklace sold for nearly $3.2 million. The marriage of Hay and Whitney was a society event that made headlines across the United States. All seven jewels from the estate of Helen Hay Whitney were sold for $4.8 million. 

In addition to the Helen Hay Whitney estate, collection from Estée Lauder, Evelyn H. Lauder and Grand Duchess Vladimir of Russia were among the most sought after jewels from bidders, which included a world record price for a Cartier “Tutti Frutti” bracelet

Jewels from the collections of Estée Lauder and Mrs. Evelyn H. Lauder together achieved $3.9 million, with more than 80 percent of the pieces on offer fetching prices above their high estimates.

Thirty-two jewels from the collection of Evelyn H. Lauder—sold to benefit The Breast Cancer Research Foundation—were led by a “Tutti Frutti” bracelet by Cartier, circa 1928 (pictured above), that sold for more than $2.1 million (more than double its high estimate), marking a new world auction record for any Tutti Frutti bracelet by Cartier.

Ten pieces from the Estée Lauder collection sold to benefit the Alzheimer’s Drug Discovery Foundation were led by a pair of fancy brown-yellow diamond and diamond earclips by Van Cleef & Arpels that fetched $233,000.

A pair of platinum, emerald and diamond pendant-earclips (pictured above) that originally belonged to the legendary collection of Grand Duchess Vladimir of Russia sold for more than $1 million. After being smuggled out of Russia by an English friend of the Duchess following the abdication of the Tsar in 1917, the emeralds descended to the Duchess’s daughter and granddaughter, and were acquired at auction at Sotheby’s Geneva in 1987 for Princess Gloria von Thurn und Taxis, the auction house said. 

From the collection of Marlene Dietrich—the legendary actress, singer and cabaret star—a 14k tri-color gold and lapis lazuli bracelet, Cartier circa 1940, sold for $179,000, nearly six times above its high estimate. The bracelet was a gift from longtime friend Erich Maria Remarque, author of “All Quiet on the Western Front.”

Two platinum and diamond rings were among the top four lots of the auction, showing that despite the trend toward colored diamonds, statement colorless diamonds can still bring in world-class prices. 

The first featured a 25.44-carat emerald-cut diamond of D color, VVS1 clarity and potentially Internally Flawless. It sold for $2.96 million, or $116,548 per carat (pictured above).

The second featured a 47.48- carat, round brilliant-cut diamond of K color, VVS1 clarity that sold for $1.8 million. 

Other highlights of the auction were:

* A platinum and diamond ring centered by a 3.02 emerald-cut fancy grayish blue diamond with VVS2 clarity, circa 1930, sold for $1.4 million, or $478,476 per carat, well above its high estimate.

* A platinum, fancy intense purplish pink diamond and diamond ring, 3.07 carats, SI2 clarity, sold for $1.2 million ($392,508 per carat).

* Platinum and diamond earclips by Harry Winston, 10.20 carats, G color, VVS2 clarity and 9.53 carats, G color,VS1 clarity, sold for $1.08 million ($54,992 per carat).

* Egyptian-revival platinum, diamond and colored stone bracelet, LaCloche Frères, Paris, sold for $1.5 million. 

The December 9 auction achieved more than $44.1 million in sales, with 75.8 percent sold by lot and 81.1 percent sold by value. It raised Sotheby’s worldwide jewelry sales in 2014 to $597.5 million, already surpassing the record $529.3 million the company achieved in 2013 in this category. This is without including Sotheby’s London jewelry sale held Thursday. The auction house estimates that sales for 2014 will exceed $600 million.

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Colorful Louis Comfort Tiffany Antique Jewelry Suite Fetches $161,000 at Bonhams

Photo credit: image courtesy of Bonhams

A rare antique jewelry suite of sapphire, demantoid garnet and enamel attributed to Louis Comfort Tiffany sold for $161,000 (including premium), soaring past its high estimate at Bonhams Fine Jewelry auction in New York.

The suite, created for Tiffany & Co., circa 1920, is led by a pendant centered by an oval, irregularly-domed cabochon sapphire. It sits within a scrolling frame suspending a flexible swag, accented by circular and oval-cut demantoid garnets and sapphires, highlighted by enamel floral sprays and suspended from a chain of floral links. It is completed by a box clasp set with circular-cut sapphires, pendant earrings en suite; chain and pendant earrings.

Photo credit: image courtesy of Bonhams

The top lot of the evening was an 8.45-carat Cartier diamond ring (pictured above). The rectangular step-cut diamond within a pierced and openwork pavé-set diamond surround sold for $293,000. 

Despite being the top lot, the diamond ring must have felt a bit lonely at the sale dominated by rare sapphires, emeralds and other colored gems. As a signed piece, it was among many that were in high demand at the December 8 sale, which realized $4.1 million. 

“More contemporary signed jewels continue to thrive in the auction environment,” said Susan Abeles, VP and director of the Jewelry at Bonhams North America, “The sale was dominated by colorful estate property which was well received by an international audience.”

Other highlights of the sale include:

Photo credit: image courtesy of Bonhams

* A 3.2-carat Kashmir sapphire and diamond ring that fetched $118,750, almost twice the high estimate.

Photo credit: image courtesy of Bonhams

* A sapphire and diamond brooch with a diamond weight of 6.85 carats, which realized $112,500, nine times the high estimate.  

Photo credit: image courtesy of Bonhams

* A Colombian emerald and diamond ring, featuring a large emerald cabochon weighing approximately 50 carats surrounded by diamonds. It achieved $106,250, over 3.5 times the high estimate.

* A late Art Deco ruby and diamond bracelet, circa 1935, with a total diamond weight of 14.00 carats, which sold for $106,250, well past its high estimate.

* Natural button pearl diamond ear studs, each over 10mm, realizing $45,000, close to 6.5 times its high estimate. 

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Burmese Ruby and Diamond Necklace Highlights Sotheby’s Hong Kong Sale

Burmese rubies, colored diamonds and Cartier jewels led Sotheby’s Hong Kong Fine Jewels and Jadeite sale. 

The top lot was a ruby and diamond necklace with 50.57 carats of unheated “Pigeon’s Blood” Mogok Burmese rubies that sold for $805,128 (top photo). 

The necklace is set with 37 graduated oval rubies, decorated with approximately 42.70 carats of pear-shaped and brilliant-cut diamonds mounted in 18k white and yellow gold. 

Other items of note at the November 28 sale include the following: 

* A 13.88-carat fancy intense yellow diamond and white diamond ring sold for $466,667. The yellow diamond is flanked by two trapeze-shaped diamonds together weighing approximately 3 carats, mounted in platinum and 18k yellow gold.

* A Cartier “Tiger” clip-brooch sold for $451,282, more than double its high estimate of $206,352. Set with brilliant-cut yellow diamonds and diamonds together weighing approximately 9.95 carats, speckled by onyx, embellished by pear-shaped emerald-set eyes, mounted in 18k yellow gold, signed and numbered.

* A 4.79-carat unheated “Pigeon’s Blood” Mogok Burmese ruby and diamond ring by Cartier sold for $435,897. The oval ruby is flanked on each side by a half-moon shaped diamond, decorated by brilliant cut and baguette diamonds together weighing approximately 1.30 carats, mounted in platinum, signed and numbered. 

* Fancy intense yellow diamond and white diamond ear clips that sold for $312,821. Each ear clip has a cut-cornered rectangular modified brilliant-cut fancy intense yellow diamond weighing 6.30 and 6.15 carats respectively, suspended from a pear-shaped and brilliant-cut diamonds weighing a total of 4.45 carats, mounted in platinum and 18k yellow gold.

The 180-lot auction of signed pieces, colored gems and diamonds, modern and vintage pieces, and a charity session to aid Operation Smile China Medical Mission, which provides free surgery to underprivileged children and young adults with cleft lips or cleft palates in China, fetched more than $7.85 million, with 87.2 percent of the items sold by lot and 75.8 percent sold by value. 

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‘Brilliant: Cartier in the 20th Century’ At Denver Art Museum

Flamingo brooch worn by Duchess of Windsor. Cartier Paris, special order, 1940. Platinum, diamonds, emeralds, rubies, sapphires, citrine; Cartier Collection. Photo credit: Nils Herrmann

It was the most creative time for what is arguably the supreme international jeweler of the 20th Century.

Necklace worn by Elizabeth Taylor. Cartier Paris, 1951, altered in 1953. Platinum, diamonds, rubies. Cartier Collection. Photo credit: Vincent Wulveryck

The Denver Art Museum is the sole venue worldwide for “Brilliant: Cartier in the 20th Century,” on view till March 15, 2015. The exhibition contains more than 250 pieces of jewelry, timepieces and precious objects produced between 1900 and 1975. Most of the pieces are from the jeweler’s “Cartier Collection,” with items on loan from other museums and private collections.

Tiara worn by Mrs. Townsend Cartier. Cartier Paris, special order, 1905. Platinum, diamonds; Height at center 9.8 cm. Provenance: Mary Scott Townsend and Mrs. Donald McElroy. Cartier Collection. Photo credit: Vincent Wulveryck

Curated by Margaret Young-Sánchez, curator of the museum’s Frederick and Jan Mayer Center, the exhibition celebrates and chronicles the creative rise of Cartier in the 20th Century and its place in the dynamic history of the period.

Necklace worn by Countess of Granard. Cartier London, special order, 1932. Platinum, diamonds, emerald; Cartier Collection.  Photo credit: Vincent Wulveryck

It was a time when old world royalty was being replaced by democratically elected governments and when captains of industry, world class entertainers and a handful of politicians stood on equal terms with the old aristocracy. Cartier stood at the intersection of this cultural change and took a leadership role, creating jewelry, timepieces and objects of art for some of the most important and famous people of the period. The exhibition has items belonging to the Duchess of Windsor, Princess Grace of Monaco, Dame Elizabeth Taylor, Franklin D. Roosevelt and Mexican film star María Félix.

Engagement Ring worn by Princess Grace of Monaco.Cartier Paris, 1956. Platinum, one 10.48-carat emerald-cut diamond, two baguette- cut diamonds. Palais Princier de Monaco 

This is an exhibition for those who cherish Cartier’s most creative period when it was a family-owned firm (family members sold the business in 1964).

Crocodile Necklace made for Maria Félix.Cartier Paris, special order, 1975. Gold, diamonds, emeralds, rubies; Cartier Collection. Photo credit: Nick Welsh

“The evolution of Cartier takes us on a journey through 20th century history, from the era of the last czars in Russia to the Roaring ’20s in America to the onset of Hollywood glamour as we know it,” said Christoph Heinrich, director of the Frederick and Jan Mayer Center. “Focusing in on the creativity and pioneering vision of the Cartier brothers and their designers, visitors will walk away not only in awe of Cartier’s stunning works of art but also aware of the drastic cultural shifts that took place throughout the history of the maison.”

Laurel Leaf Tiara owned by Marie Bonaparte. Cartier Paris, 1907. Platinum and diamonds. Qatar Museums Authority.

Cartier’s international clientele reflected the rapid changes of the 20th Century. The jeweler’s rise took place in the context of an increasingly cosmopolitan cultural scene and aligned with international social, political and economic trends. The exhibition will present a selection of themes that span time periods and styles to display the influence and innovation of the jeweler.  

Tiger Lorgnette owned by Duchess of Windsor. Cartier Paris, special order, 1954. Gold, enamel, emeralds, glass. Cartier Collection.  Photo credit: Nick Welsh

Exhibition themes include: 

* Aristocracy and Aspiration: Focusing on objects from 1900–1918, this section features diamond, sapphire, rock crystal and pearl jewelry and enameled decorative items that showcase a refined and elegant aesthetic embraced by European royalty and aristocrats—and the wealthy Americans who aspired to join their social class. 

Stomacher Brooch, Cartier Paris, special order, 1907. Platinum, sapphires, diamonds. Cartier Collection. Photo credit: Nick Welsh

* Art Deco: New Outlook: Cartier was a leader in the Art Deco movement of the 1910s to 1920s that highlighted a bold look with a new emphasis on color and geometry. The firm used new materials in this era such as jade, coral and black onyx.

Necklace created for Sir Bhupindra Singh, Maharaja of Patiala. Cartier Paris, special order, 1928. Platinum, diamonds, zirconias, topazes, synthetic rubies, smoky quartz, citrine; Cartier Collection. Photo credit: Nick Welsh  

* Art Deco: Foreign Fascination: After World War I, Cartier created original designs that incorporated exotic styles and materials including imported carved jade, lacquer and faience. This style culminated in the colorful tutti-frutti jewelry and sculptural mystery clocks. 

Tutti Frutti Strap Bracelet worn by Mrs. Cole Porter.Cartier Paris, 1929. Platinum, diamonds, sapphires, emeralds, rubies. Cartier Collection.  Photo credit: Nick Welsh

* Masculine View: Louis Cartier is credited with inventing the modern men’s wristwatch. The exhibition includes numerous models and styles, in addition to elegant and complex pocket watches, cuff links, pocket items, cocktail and desk accessories, and inscribed cigarette cases. Historic events commemorated by inscribed gift items made by Cartier are featured in the exhibition. 

Santos wristwatch, Cartier Paris, 1915. Gold, sapphire, leather strap. Cartier Collection. Photo credit: Nick Welsh

* Art of Smoking: Textured, enameled and jeweled cigar cutters, cigarette cases and lighters from 1907 through the 1940s. 

Five-Dial Clock owned by Franklin D. Roosevelt.Cartier New York, 1930. Ebonite, silver, nephrite, enamel, clock movement. Private collection. 

* Age of Glamour: Designs from the 1930s to 1960s preferred by celebrities and “Café Society.”  

Set of Three Clip Brooches worn by Princess Grace of Monaco. Cartier Paris, 1955. Platinum, brilliant- and baguette-cut diamonds, three cabochon rubies weighing approximately 49 carats. Palais Princier de Monaco.  

More photographs from the exhibition can be viewed by following this link. 

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Jewelry From Empress Eugenie and Duchess of Windsor Headlines Christie’s Geneva Sale

Empress Eugenie's Feuilles De Groseillier brooch

The “Feuilles de Groseillier” brooch, commissioned in 1855 by Empress Eugenie of France (1826-1920) to French jeweler Alfred Bapst, is one of two statement lots of jewelry with royal provenance to be offered at Christie’s Geneva Magnificent Jewels sale on November 11. Once part of the French Crown Jewels, of which very few examples in original condition have survived, it has an estimate of $2 to $3 million.

The jewel is designed as a cluster of three gold and silver openworked currant leaves with three tassels. It is set throughout with old mine diamonds and is centered with a cushion-shaped mine diamond.

The Parure de Feuilles de Groseillier was originally designed as a guirlande (garland) and worn in multiple ways. In 1870, at the fall of the Second Empire, Empress Eugenie and her husband Napoleon III moved to England, leaving behind most of the Crown Jewels. Seventeen years later, the French government conducted a 12-day auction where all the belongings of the French Royal Family were offered for sale, including the jewelry. Several of the larger pieces were broken up prior to the auction so the stones could be sold individually. The guirlande was sold as eight parts and the present brooch was acquired by Tiffany & Co. The jeweler then gifted the brooch to the Metropolitan Opera of New York as a tribute to the famous opera singer Madame Lucrezia Bori (1887-1960).

Duchess Of Windsor's Cartier Tiger jewels

The other lot is of British royal provenance. They are two pieces of tiger jewelry by Cartier, formerly from the collection of the Duchess of Windsor. They were given to Sarah Brightman, the world’s best selling soprano, by her then husband Andrew Lloyd Webber, composer and impresario of musical theater. They were a present to her to celebrate the London and Broadway success of “The Phantom of the Opera,” which he wrote and she starred. They were purchased during the legendary sale of Duchess of Windsor’s collection in 1987.

The two tiger pieces comprising of an onyx and diamond clip brooch and bracelet, with emerald eyes, were both made in the 1950s and will be sold as one lot with a combined estimate of $1.8 million to $2.5 million.

The Cartier Tiger Collection has been a highlight of 20th Century jewelry design since it first appeared in 1928. These pieces were bought by the Duke and Duchess of Windsor from Cartier between 1956 and 1959.

Brightman will offer a portion of the proceeds from the sale to The Andrew Lloyd Webber Foundation, which supports the arts, music in schools, The Architectural Heritage Fund and awards 30 performing arts scholarships annually.

Bulgari diamond ear pendant

While the two items of monarchial heritage are impressive, the top lot for the upcoming sale at the Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues goes to a sparkling pair of Bulgari pear-shaped colored diamond ear-pendants with a pre-sale estimate of $12 million to $15 million.

The ear pendants, which the auction house is calling “A Bulgari Masterpiece,” have marquise and pear-shaped diamond cluster tops weighing approximately 19.28 carats. Suspended from the clusters are a 6.95-carat, pear-shaped fancy vivid blue diamond and a 6.79-carat, pear-shaped fancy vivid pink diamond. Both statement diamonds are detachable. The diamonds are mounted in platinum and gold.

This auction of 390 lots has several other significant colored gems, signature jewels and important natural pearls. Among them are:

The "Blue Belle of Asia"

* The fourth largest faceted sapphire in the world, the “Blue Belle of Asia,” a cushion shaped Ceylon sapphire of 392.52 carats. It has an estimate of $7 to $10 million. The gem was discovered in 1926 at Pelmadula, Ratnapura (‘The City of Gems’), in Ceylon and was sold to British motor magnate Lord Nuffield (1877-1963), founder of Morris Motors Limited in 1937, according to the auction house. It was rumored that he purchased the sapphire to present to Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother, on her Coronation Day on May 12, 1937. The gem is suspended on a diamond tassel pendant and attached to a diamond neckchain mounted in gold.

* A 23.66-carat Burmese ruby mounted by Cartier, known as “The Queen of Burma,” was purchased at Cartier in London on November 1937 by the Maharao of Cutch (1866-1942). Its estimate is $5.5 - $7 million. The auction house says the gem “combines all the most sought-after qualities in a ruby: an attractive vivid pinkish red color, an excellent purity, an impressive size and the finest origin.”

* Seven jewels by JAR, some of which were recently on display at the ‘Jewels by JAR’ exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. Among the group of jewels offered for sale are the ‘Gardenia’ ring, formerly in The Collection of Ellen Barkin ($330,000 - $390,000), the sculpted gold Parrot Tulip cuff ($210,000 - $310,000) and a pair of diamond ‘String’ ear pendants ($140,000 - $200,000).

Art Deco diamond and pearl necklace

* Formerly in the collection of Baroness Edouard de Rothschild, an Art Deco diamond necklace, suspended with two natural pearls, measuring 16mm each ($700,000 - $1 million).

Harry Winston diamond ear pendants.

* Diamond ear pendants by Harry Winston with two drop-shaped natural pearls weighing more than 100 grains each ($2.8 - $3.5 million).

* A two-strand natural pearl necklace with rose overtones by Cartier ($530,000 - $850,000).

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