The Best of The Best Jewelry At Baselworld 2015

Fabergé Secret Garden necklace

Baselworld is known as a watch show but it is also one of the best places in the world to see the newest and best in jewelry from around the world, particularly at the luxury end. 

Among the brands that really made an impression this year was Fabergé. Not only with its first Imperial style jeweled egg in nearly a century. I already featured its Pearl Egg but the company exhibited several high jewelry collections reminiscent of the Fabergé of old, including a candy-colored collection of jewels called “Secret Garden (top photo).” Natalia Shugaeva, Fabergé’s head designer, said she wanted to create a collection of jewels that are opulent and refined. She succeeded.

From friends to those who actually work for the brand the word most used to describe the work of Fawaz Gruosi and his high jewelry brand, De Grisogono, is “crazy.” It is meant in the best possible sense. His singular creative designs have won the brand fame throughout the world and this year at Baselworld there were several ultra-imaginative masterpieces on displays. It’s almost become typical to expect the wonderfully unexpected from De Grisogono. Yhe De Grisogono High Jewelry necklace picture is a perfect example in 18k white and rose gold, 12 briolette-cut emeralds, 19 round-cut rubies (approximately 12.66 cts.), 29 marquise-cut white diamonds (approximately 11.01 cts.), 1,366 emeralds (approx. 60.20 ct s ) and 2603 white diamonds (approximately 137.54 cts.).

Chopard unveiled its High Jewelry Collection at Baselworld and even among the selection of jewelry destined for Red Carpet events one piece stood out. An ocean blue ring featuring a 41.57-carat oval shaped paraíba tourmaline from Mozambique and 8.8-carats of diamonds set in a lace-work of 18k white gold.

Georg Jensen and its managing director of jewelry, Meeling Wong, created several collections of refined jewelry that reinterpret the traditional designs of the famed silversmith brand. Among the items that stood out was a collection of pieces in collaboration with colored gemstone mining company, Gemfields.

Graff Diamonds also provided an exceptional jewelry not only in terms of size but in nuanced ways, showcasing several pieces that can be worn in a variety of ways or with clever use of material. The latter could be seen in the diamond tassel necklace pictured above.

Antonini, introduced a number of new collections with what it calls “natural” white gold, which is more like white mixed with a grey or yellow tint. It is used in a matte finished. Meanwhile more traditional rhodium-finished white and black gold is creatively used as a background for rough-textured pavé settings.

Pasquale Bruni introduced a number of colorful items led by Fiori in Fiore (Flowers in Bloom), featuring diamonds mixed with pink sapphires and morganite. 

Roberto Coin made a statement with its steely-eyed Falco (hawk or falcon, take your pick) ring and bracelet.  

Brumani was again as always a great designer of multi-colored stones that reflect the vibrancy of its home country Brazil and this year was no different as with these pastel colored earrings show. 

Like few other brands, Sutra brought color to the party with exceptional gemstones and creative designs as with these turquoise, diamond and gold earrings. 

More color was provided by Yoko London through its pearl-centric designs. 

Spanish brand Carrera y Carrera celebrated its 140th year anniversary with a collection of delicate, hand-made gold pieces. 

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Master Gem Carver Naomi Sarna Presents Her Jewels

Queen of the Sea is an elaborate brooch built around a natural Chinese pearl. It is made up of platinum, 18k yellow gold, 18k white gold, and oxidized sterling silver set with VS-G white diamonds, black diamonds, multicolored sapphires, faceted Ethiopian opals, and moonstones.

I still get surprised by the breadth and depth of the jewelry business. For example, I recently “discovered” gem carver and jewelry maker Naomi Sarna. And that’s only because I was contacted by the affable and hard-charging Georgia Fleming, a longtime luxury magazine salesperson who is serving as Sarna’s public relations representative.

Hand-carved 203.2-gram Rose de France amethyst.

The fact is I should have been aware of Sarna and her work as she’s been right under my nose as she has been racking up prizes at the Spectrum Awards for the past five years for her gem carvings and her one-of-a-kind jewelry. I did get to meet the energetic and good-natured Sarna in December and get an up close view of her work, which combines fluid shapes, motion, plenty of color, and a skilled combination of several jewelry-making techniques. It blends art with craft.

"His and His" rings, sizes 9 and 10.5. The size 9 ring features a 2.51 ct. natural, fancy dark orangey brown, SI2 diamond set in platinum along with multicolored orangey brown diamonds and a touch of 18k yellow gold. The size 10.5 ring features a 3.17 ct. natural, fancy dark orangey brown VS1 diamond set in platinum along with multicolored orangey brown diamonds and a touch of 18K yellow gold. 

The surprising thing about Sarna is that she has only been involved in gem carving and jewelry making for about five years, bursting onto the scene winning awards and accolades in a field that usually takes decades to perfect.

18k white gold petal set with approximately 650 gems, including VS-G white diamonds, yellow diamonds, pink diamonds, brown diamonds, green diamonds, amethysts and multi-colored sapphires.

This year alone, she took honors in the Spectrum Awards competition sponsored by the American Gem Trade Association for “Best Use of Pearls,” for an 18k rose gold necklace with white cultured pearls accented with pink diamonds; Platinum Honors for Men's Wear for her "His and His" rings featuring brown natural diamonds; and First Place for Gem Carving for her "Rose de France" 1,015-carat amethyst carving.

Pendant featuring a hand-carved aquamarine complimented by 18K white gold and VS-G white diamonds.

Sarna became successful enough in other businesses to have the financial freedom to dive full-time into gem carving and jewelry design. This and her longtime love of art and design is what she credits for her fast rise. As an art student she said she was fascinated by drapery in classical sculpture and Renaissance painting.

Brooch featuring an 80-ct. hand-carved aquamarine set in 18k white gold with VS-G white diamonds.

“I like to incorporate this love of the flow of fabric into my gem carvings and set pieces,” she said. “I think of my pieces as more than sculpture; the carving of the gem is only one part of the vision. The gem in its setting must also be in balance because there is a harmony between the jewel and the wearer. I enjoy the challenge of finding that balance and harmony.”

Pasha ring featuring a hand-carved 63.5 ct smoky quartz set in platinum and 18K yellow gold with VS-G white diamonds. 

Sarna treats her pearl jewelry differently. Whether natural or cultured, she will leave pearls alone, them in their original shapes, although she prefers unusual forms.

First Wave brooch featuring a Chinese freshwater pearl set in 18k yellow gold with multi-colored sapphires.

Her work has taken her many places including Tanzania, where she teaches the local Maasai people how to make jewelry. She does this in collaboration with TanzaniteOne, the largest and only commercial company that mines Tanzanite from the world’s only known source of the precious gem. Other mines in this region are set aside for artisanal miners from the local area.

147-gram hand-carved topaz titled "River Wind."

Her first time there she gave them 30 pliers so they create jewelry with wire. “I held them (the pliers) up and asked does anybody know what these are? They have never seen pliers before. I taught them how to do this. I knew they would be able to do it because they do fantastic bead work so I knew they would be able pick this up very quickly.”

She adds, “And off it went. It was love at first sight.”

Aquamarine Brooch featuring a hand-carved 91.64 ct aquamarine encased in 18k white gold set with VS-G white diamonds.

On her return trips she bought basic items like pencils and sunglasses.

One of her Tanzanite carvings, the 275-carat L'Heure Bleu mounted on a silver base serves as a special fundraiser for the Maasai. The cost of the piece includes a trip for four to Tanzania.

Ring featuring a hand-carved amethyst set in platinum with VS-G white diamonds.

“The mine gave me this crystal to carve and the sale of this crystal, which is pretty expensive, will include a trip for four people to Tanzania, go to a wonderful safari, and they’ll also get to meet the Maasai ladies and their families and go down to the mine. Most importantly, it will benefit people who are impoverished.”

Pearl ring with 18k yellow gold, multicolored diamonds and sapphires. 

Sarna works with a variety of gems but some of her favorites include opal and topaz.

Her brooches and rings are designed to fit properly so when they settle into place, it has the proper appearance.

“You know how rings flop over to the side,” she said. “Mine are designed to go over to the side right away. The way I designed the shank it has to go over this way. It becomes a part of your hand.”

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The 2015 AGTA Spectrum Awards Winners

Best of Show, Leon Mege - Platinum ring with a 4.71 ct. Paraiba tourmaline accented with French-cut diamonds.

The AGTA Spectrum Awards media day and winners announcement were held recently at its usual undisclosed New York location. I was unable to attend the event this year but that doesn’t mean you have to be neglected of at least seeing the top category winners. 

Best Use of Color, Paula Crevoshay – 18k yellow gold "The Venus Bracelet" with freshwater baroque cultured Pearls (91.43 ctw.) accented with pink and green tourmalines (29.32 ctw.).

The Spectrum Awards are considered by many to be the most respected and prestigious creative awards for the jewelry design industry. Launched in 1984 by the American Gem Trade Association, it honors, recognizes and promotes designers whose work uses natural colored gemstones and cultured pearls in finished fine jewelry design. The international competition serves as the benchmark for jewelry designers striving to gain recognition for their work. In addition, it is one of things the jewelry industry establishes trends through the use of color and materials. 

Best Use of Platinum and Color, Deirdre Featherstone - Platinum "Anemone" earrings with tanzanites (5.37 ctw.) accented with blue zircons (2.88 ctw.), purple sapphires (3.72 ctw.), tsavorite garnets (1.67 ctw.), indigo tourmalines (.40 ctw.), Paraiba tourmalines (.26 ctw.) and Diamonds (.16 ctw.).  

Douglas K. Hucker, CEO of the AGTA, says the 500 or designers who participated in the competition stretched the boundaries in what can be achieved in jewelry design with colored gems and pearls. 

Best Use of Pearls, Naomi Sarna – 18k rose gold necklace with white cultured pearls accented with pink diamonds.

“We were thrilled with the variety of entries at this year’s awards competition,” he said. “We saw a lot of use of striking and strong colors instead of pastels. There were asymmetrical pieces combining rounds with ovals and squares.” 

Evening Wear Maria Canale, Suna Bros. Inc. - Platinum and 20k pink gold bracelet with multi-colored natural spinels (44.31 ctw.) accented with white diamonds (6.80 ctw.) and pink diamonds (1.00 ctw.).

Among the popular choice for colors were blue, and blue green; and the most popular gems used for the competition were tourmalines, sapphires and opals, he added. In addition, he noted that there was a three-fold increase to the entries to the men’s wear category.

Fashion Forward, Ion Ionescu – 18k yellow gold ring featuring a 36 ct. turquoise accented with a 9.2mm Tahitian silver cultured pearl, Paraiba tourmalines (.32 ctw.) and diamonds (.43 ctw.).

Judging from the top winners at the show, pearls and the extremely rare Paraiba tourmaline were used quite extensively.

Business/Day Wear, Jennifer Rabe Morin, Gregore Joailliers – 18k rose gold ring with carved turquoise (29.0 ctw.) accented with amethyst cabochons (14.0 ctw.).

This year's AGTA Spectrum Awards will be presented during the 2015 AGTA GemFair Tucson to be held February 3 - 8 (a trade only event) at the Tucson Convention Center in Tucson, Ariz., with the winning entries will be displayed during the show.

Men's Wear, Dawn Muscio – 18k red gold and stainless steel "Pink2" cufflinks featuring pillow cut Morganites (8.74 ctw.) accented with Rubies (.87 ctw.) and Diamonds (.60 ctw.).

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Jewelry From Empress Eugenie and Duchess of Windsor Headlines Christie’s Geneva Sale

Empress Eugenie's Feuilles De Groseillier brooch

The “Feuilles de Groseillier” brooch, commissioned in 1855 by Empress Eugenie of France (1826-1920) to French jeweler Alfred Bapst, is one of two statement lots of jewelry with royal provenance to be offered at Christie’s Geneva Magnificent Jewels sale on November 11. Once part of the French Crown Jewels, of which very few examples in original condition have survived, it has an estimate of $2 to $3 million.

The jewel is designed as a cluster of three gold and silver openworked currant leaves with three tassels. It is set throughout with old mine diamonds and is centered with a cushion-shaped mine diamond.

The Parure de Feuilles de Groseillier was originally designed as a guirlande (garland) and worn in multiple ways. In 1870, at the fall of the Second Empire, Empress Eugenie and her husband Napoleon III moved to England, leaving behind most of the Crown Jewels. Seventeen years later, the French government conducted a 12-day auction where all the belongings of the French Royal Family were offered for sale, including the jewelry. Several of the larger pieces were broken up prior to the auction so the stones could be sold individually. The guirlande was sold as eight parts and the present brooch was acquired by Tiffany & Co. The jeweler then gifted the brooch to the Metropolitan Opera of New York as a tribute to the famous opera singer Madame Lucrezia Bori (1887-1960).

Duchess Of Windsor's Cartier Tiger jewels

The other lot is of British royal provenance. They are two pieces of tiger jewelry by Cartier, formerly from the collection of the Duchess of Windsor. They were given to Sarah Brightman, the world’s best selling soprano, by her then husband Andrew Lloyd Webber, composer and impresario of musical theater. They were a present to her to celebrate the London and Broadway success of “The Phantom of the Opera,” which he wrote and she starred. They were purchased during the legendary sale of Duchess of Windsor’s collection in 1987.

The two tiger pieces comprising of an onyx and diamond clip brooch and bracelet, with emerald eyes, were both made in the 1950s and will be sold as one lot with a combined estimate of $1.8 million to $2.5 million.

The Cartier Tiger Collection has been a highlight of 20th Century jewelry design since it first appeared in 1928. These pieces were bought by the Duke and Duchess of Windsor from Cartier between 1956 and 1959.

Brightman will offer a portion of the proceeds from the sale to The Andrew Lloyd Webber Foundation, which supports the arts, music in schools, The Architectural Heritage Fund and awards 30 performing arts scholarships annually.

Bulgari diamond ear pendant

While the two items of monarchial heritage are impressive, the top lot for the upcoming sale at the Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues goes to a sparkling pair of Bulgari pear-shaped colored diamond ear-pendants with a pre-sale estimate of $12 million to $15 million.

The ear pendants, which the auction house is calling “A Bulgari Masterpiece,” have marquise and pear-shaped diamond cluster tops weighing approximately 19.28 carats. Suspended from the clusters are a 6.95-carat, pear-shaped fancy vivid blue diamond and a 6.79-carat, pear-shaped fancy vivid pink diamond. Both statement diamonds are detachable. The diamonds are mounted in platinum and gold.

This auction of 390 lots has several other significant colored gems, signature jewels and important natural pearls. Among them are:

The "Blue Belle of Asia"

* The fourth largest faceted sapphire in the world, the “Blue Belle of Asia,” a cushion shaped Ceylon sapphire of 392.52 carats. It has an estimate of $7 to $10 million. The gem was discovered in 1926 at Pelmadula, Ratnapura (‘The City of Gems’), in Ceylon and was sold to British motor magnate Lord Nuffield (1877-1963), founder of Morris Motors Limited in 1937, according to the auction house. It was rumored that he purchased the sapphire to present to Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother, on her Coronation Day on May 12, 1937. The gem is suspended on a diamond tassel pendant and attached to a diamond neckchain mounted in gold.

* A 23.66-carat Burmese ruby mounted by Cartier, known as “The Queen of Burma,” was purchased at Cartier in London on November 1937 by the Maharao of Cutch (1866-1942). Its estimate is $5.5 - $7 million. The auction house says the gem “combines all the most sought-after qualities in a ruby: an attractive vivid pinkish red color, an excellent purity, an impressive size and the finest origin.”

* Seven jewels by JAR, some of which were recently on display at the ‘Jewels by JAR’ exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. Among the group of jewels offered for sale are the ‘Gardenia’ ring, formerly in The Collection of Ellen Barkin ($330,000 - $390,000), the sculpted gold Parrot Tulip cuff ($210,000 - $310,000) and a pair of diamond ‘String’ ear pendants ($140,000 - $200,000).

Art Deco diamond and pearl necklace

* Formerly in the collection of Baroness Edouard de Rothschild, an Art Deco diamond necklace, suspended with two natural pearls, measuring 16mm each ($700,000 - $1 million).

Harry Winston diamond ear pendants.

* Diamond ear pendants by Harry Winston with two drop-shaped natural pearls weighing more than 100 grains each ($2.8 - $3.5 million).

* A two-strand natural pearl necklace with rose overtones by Cartier ($530,000 - $850,000).

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Pink Diamond Sets Auction Record, Natural Pearls Remain in Demand

8.41-carat internally flawless pink diamond

The jewelry auction market continues to show strength as gems sparkled during sales in Hong Kong and New York. 

Sotheby’s Hong Kong said a world auction record was set for a fancy vivid pink diamond when an 8.41-carat internally flawless pink diamond sold for nearly $17.8 million at its Magnificent Jewels sale on October 7. The internally flawless fancy vivid purple-pink gem is a type IIa diamond, among the most chemically pure with exceptional optical transparency.

According to Sotheby’s, the previous world auction record for a fancy vivid pink diamond and record price per carat for a pink diamond were both achieved by a 5-carat pink diamond that sold for more than $10.7 million, or $2.15 million per carat, in Hong Kong in November 2009.

Per-carat price records were also set for a Cartier Kashmir sapphire ring that sold for $193,975 per carat and for a sapphire and diamond ring that sold for $236,404 per carat.

At Bonhams New York Fine Jewelry auction held October 8, a triple stand natural pearl, gem and diamond necklace (pictured above) fetched $185,000, over three times its high estimate. The piece is completed by a triple pavé diamond flowerhead clasp, enhanced by rubies, emeralds, and sapphires; centered by old European-cut diamonds and a fancy-cut emerald.

The top lot of the evening was a 14.51-carat round brilliant-cut diamond, flanked by tapered baguette-cut diamonds. 

In addition, a ruby and diamond bracelet designed as a graduated band of oval-cut ruby cluster links, enhanced by round brilliant-cut diamond borders, sold for $161,000; and a ruby and diamond pendant/brooch and necklace signed by M. Gerard where the largest ruby weighed 8 carats, achieved $106,250, soaring past its high estimate of $70,000.

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Exhibitors Release Pent-Up Optimism at Hong Kong Jewelry Show

Byers and sellers at the Frank & Label booth during the September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco 

I’ve been writing about the jewelry industry for 13 years and attended many tradeshows during that time. I can’t remember when exhibitors have expressed as much optimism and excitement as there has been during the September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair. Even the diamond dealers who had low expectations coming in were pleasantly surprised. 

The world’s largest fine jewelry show is held at two venues: The Asia-World Expo Centre, (September 11 – 15) for raw jewelry-making materials and jewelry-making equipment, and the main show for finished jewelry at the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre (September 13 -17). I’ve spent four days at the show so far (one day at the raw materials show and three days at the finished jewelry show) and nearly all exhibitors said business is strong to booming. 

For example, there was talk of a coral dealer at Asia-World Expo Centre who sold 80 percent of his inventory to other exhibitors a day before the show opened. On opening day at the HKCEC, several vendors and buyers were still conducting business after the show was closed. 

Myriam Gumuchian, owner of the fine jewelry design firm, Gumuchian, said at the HKCEC, that she has been busy throughout the first two days. 

“It’s my second year of the show and it’s been much better than last year,” she said. “It’s non stop.” 
 

The "Ring Cycle" by Gumuchian. It's a ring that turns into a bracelet.  Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

Gumuchian said her most popular item by far is the “Ring Cycle.” It’s a ring that with the press of a button becomes a bracelet. It’s available in 18k yellow, rose and white gold and either in diamond pave or a hammered-gold finish with a diamond center stone. As she was showing me the ring a female Japanese buyer gasped with joy when she saw how it worked. 

Gumuchian was one of 10 high-end jewelry designers who were exhibiting from a single booth provided by Frank & Label, a company that provides marketing and sales services for independent luxury jewelry designers who want to enter into the China market. It was one of the more interesting concepts at the show. Other designers included Temple St. Clair, Alex Sepkus and Victor Mayer. 
 

Temple St. Clair at her jewelry stand inside the Frank & Label booth.  Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

Evert deGraeve, Frank & Label China business development director, said this is the second year the company has been providing this space at the September Hong Kong fair. This year, possibly to accommodate approximately 100 new exhibitors, the company had its booth size cut in half. Looking at the crowd of buyers, deGraeve said, “We really could use the extra space.”

It’s a good problem to have. 
 

Buyers at one of the registration areas during the opening day of the finished jewelry portion of the show. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

The new exhibitors bring the total number of vendors at the fair at both venues to 3,633 from 48 countries. Officials from UBM Asia, which owns and operates the show, have estimated that 52,000 buyers will visit the show but from looking at the registration areas on opening day at HKCEC and from reports on the floor, they may have underestimated. Regardless, the number of exhibitors easily cements its place as the world’s largest fine jewelry show. 

Also to accommodate new exhibitors, show officials moved antique and estate dealers in the last available hall in the HKCEC which is really a foyer. It’s a spacious area that had the hustle and bustle of business being done. 

Edward Faber, owner of Aaron Faber Gallery New York, which specializes in vintage watches and jewelry, said early during the opening day he made a number of sales. Among the biggest sellers were vintage Omegas, Patek Philippe pocket watches and erotica timepieces. 

This is Faber’s third time exhibiting at the show and he said he is impressed with how quickly Asian buyers have taken to the nuisances of fine watch collecting. 

“They’ve quickly become more sophisticated,” he said. “It’s surprising the comfort level they have when it come to style and design. It’s a good thing.” 

One of the big successes I’ve seen at the show is an area called “Designer Avenue.” It’s located on the mezzanine level of the HKCE. It’s basically a balcony-like space that houses small independent jewelry designers and artists, providing them with inexpensive booth space. I’ve seen small designers become overwhelmed and out of place at large jewelry shows. Here, these artists from every continent have their own separate space that constantly filled with admirers and buyers from all over the world. 
   

The jade, wood and enamel works of independent jewelry designer, Soco So of Shenzhen, China.  Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

Etienne Perret, a US based independent jewelry designer who exhibited in the area, said buyers from Russia, China, Australia and several eastern European countries have expressed interest in his gem-ceramic designs. 

“The world is here and people seem to be buying,” he said. “People in the US have no clue how much money there is in Russia, China and even places like Iran.” 

Deep into the active main hall was Colin Shah, managing director of Kama Schachter, an India-based jewelry manufacturer that produces several brands. The company was introducing its newest brand, Fiamma, which features bridal and fashion jewelry using color-enhanced pink diamonds. It was quiet when I showed up but he said people have been coming in. 

“All appointments have showed up,” he said on the second day of the HKCEC portion of the show. “So far it’s been great.” 
 

Inside the Hong Kong Convention & Expo Centre.  Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

Walking around the cavernous convention center, the only places where buyers did not fill were in Hall 3 inside the International Pavilion, where vendors are segmented by their country of origin, and in an area known as the Design Pavilion, for luxury jewelry design companies.

A collection of rare fancy colored diamonds from Francis Errera.  Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

My first day at the show was spent at the Asia-World Expo Centre during its day. This is where materials, such as diamonds, colored gems, pearls and other jewelry making materials and equipment were being sold. Most exhibitors I spoke with were generally happy with the show but aired some complaints. 

For example, fancy colored diamond dealer, Francis Errera, said the first day of the show was “very, very busy” with “high-quality” clients from all over the world but on the second day traffic trailed off. 

One reason he said was because his clients, primarily luxury jewelry brands and investment banks, shortened their time at the fair due to religious holidays. 

“I think major shows like this one should be held outside of any important holidays,” he said. 

Overall, Errera said the positive sales reflect the growth of the overall economy. “America is getting much better,” said the French native who moved his business to Hong Kong several years ago. “Japan is getting better as well but Japan is always strong for fancy colored diamonds. China is good.” 

The only economy that is lacking growth is Europe, he said, which also reflected his business at the fair, as only one representative from the continent came to his booth during the first two days. 
 

A collection of carved freshwater pearls from Galatea.  Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

Meanwhile, in the pearl section, Chi Huynh, owner of pearl company, Galatea, was selling its loose sculptured freshwater pearls for designers and manufactures. His booth was crowded. 

“Designers love them,” he said. “I don’t think wholesalers know what to do with them.” 

He said that in addition to his loose pearls, customers were interested in his finished jewelry and to accommodate these people he is considering opening a booth at the convention center. 

“I was surprised by the reaction,” he said. “So next year I might split the booth to two places.”

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September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair in Pictures

The annual dragon dance that opens the fair.

HONG KONG — It’s the largest fine jewelry tradeshow in the world and it has become the most important event for the worldwide jewelry industry. The September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair lacks the product introductions, fashion trends and the glitz and glamor of Baselworld and the Las Vegas jewelry shows. But when it comes to the business of buying and selling, there's nothing that compares.

Etienne Perret's ceramic jewelry.

“This is the meats and potatoes that fill jewelry store shelves all over the world,” said U.S.-based independent jewelry designer, Etienne Perret, a longtime buyer at the show who was exhibiting for the first time.

My Hong Kong friend Payal Shah, owner of L'Dezen Jewellery showing her diamond earrings.

In some ways it’s a difficult show to cover. Few exhibitors are interested in discussing their products or the jewelry business in general. I spent much of my time arguing with exhibitors about taking pictures of their products. One threatened to call security even though I was authorized to take photos.

I managed to take plenty of pictures anyway as well as get a good overview of the enormity and importance of the show and how Asia has become the most important jewelry market in the world. Stories that I wrote about the show (which runs till September 25) can be read on the JewelleryNetAsia website. There will be more stories appearing on Forbes.com and the Financial Times newspaper. For my site, I decided to take a more visual approach by presenting a pictorial of the show. Enjoy.

Tara and Sons pearl display.

Jeweled sculpture by Stone Young, owner of Handosy Jewelry Co. of Guangzhou, China. He said it was inspired by Noah's Ark.

Colored gemstone jewelry from Chinese retailer Enzo.

Jewelry from Stefan Hafner

Coral sculptures by Lucoral's of Taiwan.