Rivière ‘Triple X’ Necklace Tops $1.2 Million At Bonhams Auction

Photo by Anthony DeMarco

A diamond rivière necklace with 51 “Triple X-cut” rated diamonds sold for $1.2 million (including premium) at Bonham’s New York Fine Jewelry sale. It was the top item of the sale held Monday by the international auction house.

Triple X (also known as “Triple Ex”) is an informal designation, mostly within the trade, that means a diamond that has received excellent polish, symmetry and cut grades. Only round and round brilliant cut diamonds can receive this designation.

Each diamond in the necklace is accompanied by a Gemological Institute of America report that states it’s three excellence grades. The graduated line of 51 round brilliant-cut diamonds weighs more than 70 carats. They are joined together by a heart-shaped diamond clasp weighing 2.04 carats. The diamonds are mounted in platinum.

Even though the necklace commanded a seven-figure price, it sold below its $1.4 million - $1.8 million estimate.

There were a number of items that failed to sell along with some pieces that shattered estimates. In many ways it reflected the inconsistent spring auction season for jewelry, which quietly came to an end.

Colored gems, very popular in recent years, did well, as well as Art Deco and Belle Époque and Art Deco pieces. Signed pieces by Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier and Tiffany & Co. also saw mixed results. Several colorless diamonds rings sold well.

Susan Abeles, Bonhams director of US Jewellery, was pleased with a number of sales throughout the auction.

“Color I think was outstanding,” she said following the auction. “Emeralds and other fine colored stones did very well. We saw more interest in large round diamonds. Beautiful signed items retained their value and worldwide interest.”

Among the top sellers were:

Photo by Anthony DeMarco

* A 25-carat sapphire and diamond ring by the M. Gerard French jewelry house (pictured above) sold for $581,000, beating its high estimate. The richly colored crystal sapphire’s unusual octagonal cut makes this a very rare find. The sapphire is flanked by triangular-cut diamonds and is mounted in 18k gold.

* Emerald and diamond earrings, each suspended by an emerald bead (30 carats total) with a yellow gold cap and topped with two round brilliant-cut diamonds (3.80 carats total) that sold for $118,750. Nearly double its high estimate of $60,000.

* Two diamond rings sold for the identical price of $106,250. A 3.51-carat cut-cornered rectangular step-cut diamond on a ring flanked by tapered baguette-cut diamonds and mounted in platinum. The other was a ring centered by a 7.37-carat round diamond set in 18k gold and platinum.

* Early in the auction a turn of the century imperial topaz and diamond pendant brooch, circa 1900 (pictured above), centered by an oval cushion-cut imperial topaz and suspended by a detachable imperial topaz briolette sold for $87,500, totally smashing its high estimate of $9,000.

* A fancy colored diamond and sapphire ring designed as a pavé-set diamond with a geometric plaque that sold for $52,500, within its estimate. The plaque centers a lozenge brilliant-cut light gray-blue colored diamond weighing 0.92 carat with acalibré-cut sapphire surround;

* A colorful black opal ring (pictured above) flanked by diamonds and mounted in platinum sold for $16,250, smashing its $7,000 high estimate.

Among the items that were passed by bidders were:

* A 3.56-carat cut-cornered, rectangular-cut fancy intense pink diamond on a ring with an estimate of $600,000 - $800,000, enhanced by a pavé-set diamond surround and mounted in 18k white and yellow gold;

* A ring designed as a pavé-set diamond star with an oval modified brilliant-cut fancy deep blue diamond in the center, which weighs 0.71 carat (est. $250,000 - $350,000);

* A 5.02-carat cut-cornered, square modified brilliant-cut fancy yellow diamond on a ring flanked by fancy-cut diamonds within a pavé-set diamond surround (est. $50,000 - $60,000).

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21-Carat Kashmir Sapphire Fetches $4.2 Million, Shatters Estimates

Rare colored gems continue to show their strength in the auction market as a 21.71-carat Kashmir sapphire easily topped the results at Christie’s New York Important Jewels sale, Tuesday.

Called “The Kelly Sapphire” prior to the auction, the dark-blue natural gem sold for $4.2 million, more than double its high estimate ($193,000 per carat). The stone is mounted on ring by Cartier flanked by two trapeze-shaped diamonds.

The sapphire was from the private collection of Margaret Adderley Kelly, who, along with her husband and son, help shape the national employment agency and recruitment firm, Kelly Services, Inc., into a Fortune 500 company.

The collection of 28 lots from the original “Kelly Girl” all sold, fetching $9.8 million, nearly double its pre-sale estimate of $5 million. Two other items were among the 10 best selling lots at the auction. They are: an Art Deco necklace featuring a 16.24-carat D-color, internally flawless, VS2, pear-shaped diamond pendant, that sold for more than $2.2 million (pictured above), just above its high estimate of $2 million; and a Burmese ruby and diamond cluster necklace (pictured below) that sold for $845,000, well above its $600,000 high estimate.

Christie’s auction of 230 lots totaled nearly $27.6 million, with 79 percent sold by lot and 94 percent sold by value. It marked the last jewelry auction of the spring season for the international auction house. The top lots were largely dominated by colored gems and diamonds, and statement white diamonds. 

The second highest sale of the event was an 80.73-carat cushion-cut, K-color diamond that sold for $3.8 million, within its estimate. The purchaser was listed as SIBA Corp.

Other top lots in the sale include: 

* A 9.97-carat, cushion-cut, Kashmir sapphire that sold for more than $1.1 million

* A 28-carat cushion-cut Intense Fancy Yellow, VS2 diamond that sold for $857,000

* A 27.83-carat rectangular-cut Ceylon sapphire that sold for $845,000, well above its $500,000 high estimate

* A 25.82-carat cushion-cut, K-color, VS2 diamond, that sold for $725,000, just above its high estimate

With the latest auction results, sales at Christie’s jewelry department totaled $69.5 million for the first half of 2015. 

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‘Kelly Sapphire’ And 16-Ct. Diamond Necklace Each May Fetch $2 Million

Art Deco necklace with 16.24-carat D-color, internally flawless, VS2, pear-shaped diamond

The jewels of business woman and philanthropist, Margaret Adderley Kelly, will lead Christie’s final jewelry auction of the spring season in New York on Tuesday. The 28 lots in the private collection include a Cartier Kashmir sapphire ring and an Art Deco diamond pendant necklace along with large diamond and gold suites, a variety of pearls and several ruby and sapphire pieces.

Ms. Kelly along with her husband, the late William R. Kelly, and their son, Mr. Terence E. Adderley, shaped the national employment agency and recruitment firm, Kelly Services, Inc., into a Fortune 500 company that now employs more than 550,000 people globally. 

One of the top lots is called “The Kelly Sapphire,” (pictured above) a Cartier signed ring centered with a 21.71-carat Kashmir sapphire with no traces of heat enhancement. The stone is flanked by two trapeze-shaped diamonds. Its estimate is $1.5 million - $2 million. 

The other item of note in the Kelly collection is an Art Deco necklace that features a 16.24-carat D-color, internally flawless, VS2, pear-shaped diamond pendant (top photo). Its estimate is $1.6 million to $2 million.

The diverse offering of more than 200 lots at Christie’s New York Important Jewels sale on Tuesday includes a group of colored and colorless diamonds, rare gemstones, and signed designer jewels.

Other auction highlights include:

* An 80.73-carat cushion-cut, K-color diamond with an estimate of $3 million - $5 million

* A 9.97-carat, cushion-cut, Kashmir sapphire with an estimate of $950,000 - $1.25 million

* A 28-carat cushion-cut Intense Fancy Yellow, VS2 diamond with an estimate of $700,000 - $900,000

* A 25.82-carat cushion-cut, K-color, VS2 diamond with an estimate of $600,000 - $700,000

* A 15.54-carat cut-cornered step-cut diamond by Cartier with an estimate of $330,000 - $450,000

* An Art-Deco diamond bracelet by Cartier with an estimate of $380,000 - $450,000

* A necklace with a 5.06-carat, pear-shaped D-color diamond and a 1.68-carat, pear-shaped fancy purplish-pink diamond, with an estimate of $280,000 - $350,000

* A 14.5-carat cut-corned fancy yellow diamond by Graff with an estimate of $250,000 - $350,000

* A 7.27 oval cut Colombian emerald with an estimate of $260,000 – $300,000

Necklace With 51 ‘Triple X’ Diamonds Could Fetch $1.8 Million At Bonhams

A diamond rivière necklace with 51 “Triple X-cut” rated diamonds will be the top lot at Bonham’s New York Fine Jewelry sale on June 22. Its estimate is $1.4 million to $1.8 million.

Triple X (also known as “Triple Ex”) is an informal designation, mostly within the trade, that means a diamond that has received excellent polish, symmetry and cut grades. Only round and round brilliant cut diamonds can receive this designation. 

Each diamond in the necklace is accompanied by a Gemological Institute of America report that stating it’s three excellence grades. The graduated line of 51 round brilliant-cut diamonds weighs more than 70 carats. They are joined together by a heart-shaped diamond clasp weighing 2.04 carats. The diamonds are mounted in platinum. 

Bonhams has been saying that buyers have shown a strong preference for colored diamonds and gems this year. Exemplifying this trend the auction is loaded with these colorful stones. Among the top colored lots are:

* A 3.56-carat cut-cornered, rectangular-cut fancy intense pink diamond on a ring with an estimate of $600,000 - $800,000, enhanced by a pavé-set diamond surround and mounted in 18k white and yellow gold;

* A 25-carat sapphire and diamond ring (est. $400,000 - $500,000) by M. Gerard, a famous French jewelry house known for its superior craftsmanship and superb gemstones. The richly colored crystal sapphire’s unusual octagonal cut makes this a very rare find. The sapphire is flanked by triangular-cut diamonds and is mounted in 18k gold. 

* A ring designed as a pavé-set diamond star with an oval modified brilliant-cut fancy deep blue diamond in the center, which weighs 0.71 carat (est. $250,000 - $350,000); 

* A 5.02-carat cut-cornered, square modified brilliant-cut fancy yellow diamond on a ring flanked by fancy-cut diamonds within a pavé-set diamond surround (est. $50,000 - $60,000).

* A fancy colored diamond and sapphire ring designed as a pavé-set diamond with a geometric plaque. The plaque centers a lozenge brilliant-cut light gray-blue colored diamond weighing 0.92 carat with acalibré-cut sapphire surround (est. $40,000 - $60,000)

The auction will begin held at 11 a.m. 

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25-Carat Ruby Ring By Cartier Fetches World Auction Record $30.4 Million

Additional reporting by Gretchen Friedrich, Jewelry News Network social media manager

The 25.59-carat “Sunrise Ruby” by Cartier smashes estimates to fetch $30.38 million, a world record for a price of a ruby at auction. It was the surprising top lot Sotheby’s Geneva Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels Sale held Tuesday at the Hôtel Beau-Rivage. 

Known as the “Sunrise Ruby,” it’s described as a “unique treasure of nature” by the Swiss Gemmological Institute. The ruby didn’t receive any heat treatment and the color is described by that famous auction moniker for exceptional rubies, “pigeon’s blood” red: the rarest and most sought-after of hues. 

The ruby was the high point in a jewelry auction that saw many highs, taking in approximately $134 million, with 93.5 percent of the 484 lots sold. The top ten results were a mix of colored gems and diamonds along with white diamonds, natural pearls and three other Cartier jewels. 

Going into the auction, the top lot was expected to be the “Historic Pink,”  (pictured above) an 8.72-carat Fancy Vivid Pink diamond that the auction house described as “extremely rare and highly important.” This turned out to be the second highest lot of the sale, fetching $16 million, within its estimate. The jewel is believed to have been part of the collection of Princess Mathilde, the niece of Napoleon Bonaparte. The stone, which has VS2 clarity, is also distinguished by its classic non-modified cushion cut, unusual in a pink diamond, Sotheby’s said. 

A custom-made diamond necklace of more than 190 carats by Cartier (pictured above) sold for $7.25 million. The piece was designed as a cascade of diamonds, the front accented with a floral motif and suspending a fringe of nine pear-shaped stones.

Despite an auction season that has had its share of high and lows, one category of jewelry that continues to see consistently higher prices are natural pearls. This auction didn’t disappoint as three pearl jewels were among the top 10 lots.

The first was a natural pearl and diamond necklace that has at least least some Cartier lineage (signed clasp and case stamp) that sold for $7 million (pictured above), well above its high estimate. It is composed of two graduated strands of 78 natural pearls on a clasp set with a marquise-shaped diamond weighing 4.39 carats.

In addition, a single strand necklace composed of a graduated row of natural pearls measuring from 7.95 to 12.40mm, on a barrel clasp set with brilliant-cut diamonds sold for $3.8 million, totally obliterating its high estimate of approximately $527,000.

The other Cartier pieces that sparkled at the auction were a brooch set with a 30.23-carat Kashmir sapphire that sold for $6.1 million; and sapphire and diamond earrings of the same design made with two Burmese Mogok sapphires of 15.77 and 16.90 carats. This sold for $3.43 million, well above its high estimate.

The other top lots are as follows:

* A 32-carat colorless diamond ring sold for more than $4 million. It was one of two colorless diamonds among the top 10 lots.

* The other was a pair of earrings each suspending a cushion-shaped diamond weighing 10.02 and 10.03 carats, from a line of single-cut diamonds, which sold for $3.2 million.

* Rounding out the top 10 was a natural pearl and diamond ear clips that sold for $3.2 million.

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Historic Pink Diamond And 25-Carat Cartier Ruby Could Each Fetch $18 Million At Sotheby’s Geneva

The Historic Pink Diamond

Sotheby’s auction of Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels in Geneva will likely serves as a test of the strength of the auction market for jewelry, which has had some lackluster sales recently. The May 12 sale at the Hôtel Beau-Rivage includes an historic pink diamond, an important ruby, several significant Cartier pieces and five bejeweled tiaras. 

The sale is led by two gems. The first is the 8.72-carat “Historic Pink,” which the auction house describes as an “extremely rare and highly important” Fancy Vivid Pink diamond. According to the Gemological Institute of America, it’s believed to have been part of the collection of Princess Mathilde, the niece of Napoleon Bonaparte. The stone, which has VS2 clarity, is also distinguished by its classic non-modified cushion cut, unusual in a pink diamond, Sotheby’s said. 

The pre-sale estimate is $14 to $18 million. 

The Sunrise Ruby by Cartier

The 25.59-carat “Sunrise Ruby” by Cartier is described as a “unique treasure of nature” by the Swiss Gemmological Institute. The ruby has not received any heat treatment and the color is described by that famous auction moniker for exceptional rubies, “pigeon’s blood” red: the rarest and most sought-after of hues.

Its estimate is $12 million to $18 million.

Diamond necklace by Cartier 

It is one of four jewels by Cartier from the same private collection. The other statement piece is a diamond necklace of more than 190 carats. Custom-made for the owner, it is designed as a cascade of diamonds, the front accented with a floral motif and suspending a fringe of nine pear-shaped stones. Its estimate is $6 to $10 million. 

Kashmir sapphire and diamond brooch, Cartier

The other pieces are a brooch set with a 30.23-carat Kashmir sapphire (estimate: $3.5 million - $6 million); and sapphire and diamond earrings, made with two Burmese Mogok sapphires of 15.77 and 16.90 carats (estimate: $800,000 - $1.2 million). 

Diamond Cartier tiara, 1930s 

Provenance is a constant theme of this sale and one of the most important items of Noble ownership is a collection of jewels that includes three tiaras from the Estate of Mary, Duchess of Roxburghe. They are led by a piece created by Cartier in the 1930s (estimate: $300,000 – $500,000); and intricate tiara/necklace composed of fleurs de lys and confronting scroll motifs, swing-set with a graduated row of twenty superb pear-shaped diamonds (estimate: $300,000 – $500,000); and a delicate ruby and diamond creation (estimate: $80,000 – 100,000).

Mary, Duchess of Roxburghe is the granddaughter of Rothschild heiress Hannah and British Prime Minister the Earl of Rosebery, whose wedding to the Duke of Roxburghe brought together two of Britain’s great aristocratic families, according to the auction house. 

In addition to the three tiaras from the Roxburghe Estate, the auction will offer a two other tiaras for a total of five very fine pieces in a single sale, which is extremely rare, according to the auction house.

Diamond tiara necklace, 1880s

From the Collection of the Earl of Mar and Kellie, a diamond tiara/necklace, designed in the style of a “tiare russe,” dating back to the 1880s and drawing inspiration from the Russian kokoshniks—traditional fan- shaped head ornaments inspired by the cockscomb. This tiara was worn by the 12th Countess of Mar at the coronation of King Edward VII in 1902 (estimate: $150,000 – $295,000).

The fifth tiara is one made of emeralds and diamonds dating to the early 20th century. The piece is designed as two lines of circular-cut diamonds, surmounted with scroll and fleur de lys motifs, the scrolls topped with drop-shaped emeralds (estimate: $40,000 - $60,000).

No auction is complete these days without at least one signature natural pearl necklace. In this case the jewel is composed of two graduated rows strung with 78 natural pearls ($3 million - $5 million).

There was a noted decline in the number of lots being sold along with their value during auctions in April. For example, Sotheby’s Hong Kong Magnificent Jewels & Jadeite sale saw nearly a third of its lots go unsold—unheard of in recent years. Christie’s New York Magnificent Jewels sale fared a little better with 77 percent of the items sold by (meaning nearly a quarter of the lots went unsold) and 77 percent sold by value, compared with estimates.

A large diamond at Christie’s New York in April was pulled halfway through the auction and several other items didn’t make the reserve price.

Most recently, Sotheby’s New York Magnificent Jewels sale bucked the negative trend with 80 percent of items sold by lot and nearly 85 percent sold by value with 10 jewels selling for more than $1 million. In a nod to the modern way of doing business, four of the top 10 items were sold to online bidders.

The Geneva jewelry auctions are often the most highly anticipated sales on the calendar and Sotheby’s and Christie’s are presenting highly sought after pieces in all categories. So next month will determine whether the slowdown was a temporary occurrence or here to stay. 

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100-Carat Diamond Sells For $22 Million At Sotheby’s

Sotheby’s called it the “perfect’ and “ultimate” diamond and “unlike any other before.” Now it can be called the $22 million diamond.

The 100.20-carat, D-Color, Internally Flawless, emerald-cut diamond was easily the top lot Tuesday at Sotheby’s New York Magnificent Jewels sale.

The Type IIa gem joins a group of only five other diamonds of more than 100 carats with similar attributes that have been sold at auction worldwide, the auction house said. The gem is further distinguished by its emerald cut, making it the largest perfect diamond with a classic emerald-cut ever to be offered at auction.

The gem came from a rough that weighed more than 200 carats and was mined by De Beers in southern Africa. It took more than a year to craft the diamond from the rough.

Gary Schuler, head of Sotheby’s Jewelry Department in New York, compared the diamond to “a pool of icy water.”

The sale price (which includes buyer’s premium) was within its estimate and amounts to $220,459 per carat. The buyer was not named.

The auction totaled nearly $65.1 million in which 79.9 percent was sold by lot and 84.4 percent by value. The other best-selling lots were dominated by colored diamonds and gems, particularly Kashmir sapphires. Cartier pieces were also in high demand.

The other top lots from the Magnificent Jewels sale are as follows:

* A 22.30-carat Internally Flawless oval diamond ring sold for $3.25 million ($145,740 per carat).

* The 35.02-carat Flagler Emerald, described as an important emerald-cut classic Colombian emerald and diamond pendant, sold for $2.77 million ($79,098 per carat)—well above its high estimate of $1.5 million.

* The Baron de Rothschild Necklace, described as an emerald, sapphire, lapis lazuli and diamond pendant-Necklace, designed by Charles Jacqueau for Cartier, Paris, circa 1924, sold for $2.59 million.

* A 6.24-carat, pear-shaped fancy purplish pink diamond with VVS2 clarity and Kashmir sapphire ring and sold for $2.4 million ($386,218 per carat).

* An 11.41-carat, Internally Flawless, round-cornered rectangular modified brilliant-cut fancy light pink diamond and diamond ring sold for $1.9 million.

* An 11.90-carat Kashmir sapphire and diamond ring of by Cartier, circa 1915, sold for $1.9 million ($162,185 per carat).

* Iconic emerald, ruby, diamond and enamel ‘Tutti Frutti’ Bracelet, Cartier, New York, circa 1928, sold for $1.6 million.

* 14.33-carat marquise-shaped diamond ring, D color and VVS1 clarity, sold for $1.15 million ($80,251 per carat).

* A 17-carat Kashmir sapphire and diamond brooch by Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co., circa 1960, formerly from the collection of Mrs. Paul Mellon sold for just over $1 million ($60,588 per carat).

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5-Carat Pink Diamond Fetches $5.7 Million, Natural Pearl Necklace Sets World Auction Record

A 5.29-carat purplish pink diamond sold for more than $5.7 million at Christie’s New York Magnificent Jewels sale Tuesday. The fancy intense gem was the top lot sold at the auction, surpassing its $5 million high estimate and fetching just under $1.1 million per carat.

Natural pearls were also in high demand Tuesday. The second-highest lot of the sale was a four-strand natural colored pearl necklace that sold for nearly $5.1 million, setting a world auction record for a natural colored pearl necklace. 

The necklace comprises four strands of 81, 76, 69 and 63 natural gray and brown pearls, measuring approximately 12.65 to 4.90 mm. The Swiss Gemmological Institute report confirms the authenticity of these saltwater natural pearls that, according to the report, have no indication of artificial color modification.

In addition, a single-strand natural pearl necklace was also among the top 10 lots. Designed as a graduated strand of 46 natural pearls, measuring 6.95 to 11.90 mm, they are joined by a marquise-cut diamond clasp, mounted in platinum, it sold for just over $1 million.

Rahul Kadakia, International head of Christie’s Jewelry, noted that colored diamonds and the jewelry creations of JAR also performed well with “spirited bidding.”

Graff Diamonds had two of its pieces sell among the top 10 lots. A pear-shaped D-color potentially internally flawless diamond pendant of 25.49 carats, was the third highest lot of the sale, fetching more than $3.4 million ($134,000 per carat) (pictured dangling from a diamond necklace); and a cushion-cut D-color potentially internally flawless diamond of 11.03 carats sold for more than $1.3 million ($120,000 per carat).

Whether diamonds or gems, color remains extremely popular on the auction market. Among the top sellers of the auction were a 5.04-carat circular-cut fancy gray-blue diamond that sold for nearly $2.3 million (pictured above); and a 9.40-carat cushion-shaped Burmese ruby that sold for more than $2.1 million, more than double its $1 million high estimate (pictured below).

JAR jewelry continues to command high prices. A pair of emerald, diamond and colored diamond ear clips sold for $845,000, smashing its $350,000 high estimate (below). It was the ninth highest selling lot of the auction.

Christie’s Magnificent Jewels sale totaled more than $41.9 million, with 77 percent sold by lot and 77 percent sold by value.

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Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis Ruby Jewels Among Highlights of Christie’s Geneva Auction

Van Cleef & Arpels ruby and diamond ear pendants and a matching ring from the property of Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis will be one of the signature items at Christie’s Geneva Magnificent Jewels sale on May 13. 

The jewels were presented as a wedding gift by Aristotle Onassis in 1968. Its estimate is $250,000 – $350,000.

A piece with even more historical significance and a higher price tag is the Maria Christina Royal Devant-de-Corsage brooch. Another item that was presented as a wedding gift in November 1879 from King Alfonso XII of Spain to his wife, the Archduchess Maria Christina of Austria, soon to be Queen Consort and then Queen Regent of Spain. The brooch, currently in the collection of Baroness Thyssen-Bornemizsa, is expected to fetch $1.5 to $2 million, according to the auction house.

Maria Christina wearing the Royal Devant-de-Corsage brooch

While these two items have historical significance, they are by no means the most expensive of the auction of 351 jewels and gems that is expected to achieve more than $80 million.

The sale includes a number of statement diamonds and gems led by a 55.52-carat pear shaped D-color, Flawless diamond that has an estimate of $8.5 million to $10.5 million (pictured above); a 5.18-carat rectangular-cut Fancy Vivid Pink diamond (estimate $9.5 million – $12.5 million) (pictured below); and a 21.75-carat Ashoka-cut D-color Flawless diamond ring (estimate: $2.8 million – $3.5 million).

Gemstone highlights include “The Pride of Burma,” a 6.25-carat cushion shaped Burmese ruby and diamond ring (estimate: $1.8 million – $2.5 million), a pair of antique emerald Indian bangles (estimate: $1.5 million – $2 million) (both pictured below), and a 35.09-carat, cushion shaped Kashmir sapphire (estimate: $3 million to $4.2 million).

Another highlight includes a large single-strand natural saltwater pearl necklace with an estimate of $2.5 million to $3.5 million (pictured below).

Among signature jewels is an early example of JAR’s work: a pair of tourmaline and agate camellia brooches, circa 1985 with an estimate of $140,000 – $170,000 (pictured below).

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100-Carat ‘Perfect Diamond’ May Fetch $25 Million at Sotheby’s

A 100.20-carat D color internally flawless Type IIa stone will be the top lot of Sotheby’s Magnificent Jewels auction in New York on April 21. Its pre-sale estimate is $19 - $25 million.

The auction house is calling it the “perfect diamond,” saying that it joins a group of only five other diamonds of more than 100 carats with similar attributes that have been sold at auction worldwide. This gem is further distinguished by its emerald cut, making it the largest perfect diamond with a classic emerald-cut ever to be offered at auction.

It is a diamond “unlike any other before,” the auction house says.

The original rough weighed more than 200 carats and was mined by De Beers in southern Africa. It took more than a year to study, cut and polish the rough into the 100-carat diamond.

The diamond will be exhibited in Dubai, Los Angeles, Hong Kong, London and Doha, before returning to New York for exhibition beginning April 17.

Gary Schuler, head of Sotheby’s Jewelry Department in New York, said the diamond “is the definition of perfection. The color is whiter than white, it is free of any internal imperfections, and so transparent that I can only compare it to a pool of icy water. It is the first true emerald-cut diamond over 100 carats to be offered at auction—the most classic of cuts, quietly elegant and very contemporary.”

Lisa Hubbard, chairman of North & South America for Sotheby’s International Jewelry Division, added: “It has everything you could ever want from a diamond: the classic shape begs to be worn, while the quality puts it in an asset class of its own.”

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