Some of the Best Luxury Watches from SIHH

Montblanc Nicolas Rieussec Rising Hours

The recently concluded Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) tradeshow in Geneva, featured only 16 luxury brands but their output of quality timepieces provided a showcase for innovation, craftsmanship and design that remain the hallmarks of the Swiss watch industry. Below are a few examples of some of the timepieces that were on display.

Montblanc Nicolas Rieussec Calibre MB R220

Montblanc Nicolas Rieussec Rising Hours
The hour display of this watch (top and above photos) is made possible by Montblanc’s new Calibre MB R220, which has a patented mechanism consisting of two rotating discs positioned one atop the other, to show not only the individual 12 hours, but to also indicate whether its day or night. The Arabic numerals 1 to 12 are on the upper disc, which is situated above the bicolor day/night disc. The 12-hour disc rotates continually, while the day/night disc turns in intervals and at variable speeds to produce the desired color change (blue for the night, black for the day) in the cut-out numerals. This motion is controlled with the aid of a Maltese cross-shaped mechanism consisting of two cam-like wheels. In addition to this double-disc mechanism, four other disc displays rotate. The day of the week is shown in a window at the 9 o’clock and the date appears in an aperture at the 3 o’clock. This is the latest version of the collection named after the inventor of the chronograph.  

A. Lange & Söhne Grand Complication
The German watch brand has developed a timepiece with a host of complications that include chiming mechanism with grand and small strikes; minute repeater; a monopusher type split-seconds chronograph, with minute counter and rattrapante function and jumping seconds accurate to a fifth of a second; perpetual calendar with date, day of week, month in four-year cycle; and moon phases. The movement is a Lange manufacture Calibre L1902, manually wound. The white enamel dial reveals a railway-track minute scale and the four characteristic, symmetrically arranged subsidiary dials. This exclusive collectors' item is housed in a 50mm pink gold case comes. It is available in a limited edition of six watches.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Grand Complication
The mechanical heart of this 44mm timepiece is its three advanced functions, forming what is considered in the industry as the basis of a Grande Complication movement. Its traditional selfwinding movement combines minute repeater, split-second chronograph and perpetual calendar functions. It’s also equipped with a minute repeater mechanism, enabling it to sound the hours, quarters and minutes on demand. And it houses a perpetual calendar complication that also displays lunar cycles. It affords the possibility of performing timing operations and reading off intermediate or “split” times due to the split-second complication, which is an Audemars Piguet signature in its Grande Complication models. The selfwinding Calibre 2885 has 648 parts. It is available in a titanium case (pictured) or an 18K pink gold case. Both models are limited to three pieces each.

Richard Mille RM58-01 Tourbillon World Timer
The 12-year-old watch brand is an infant when it comes to the venerable world of the Swiss watch industry, but it has grown up at lightning speed with technical innovations and partnerships with athletes in sports ranging from track and field to soccer to auto racing. This manually winding movement has hours, minutes and a 10-day power reserve shown on an indicator at 2 o’clock. The caliber RM58-01, 34mm in diameter, is supported on a baseplate of grade 5 titanium, a material also utilized for the bridges. The tourbillon, positioned at 9 o’clock and oscillating at a frequency of 3Hz, is accommodated in a four-part case made from titanium and red gold. The shot-blasted, satin-brushed and polished rotating bezel bears the names of 24 world cities, symbols of the international 24 time zones on its brown upper flange. The RM 58-01 does not need any adjusting push-piece to change from one time zone to another. The time is set by rotating the bezel anticlockwise, making adjustment a quick operation. All the traveler needs to do is position the name of the city where he or she has just landed at 12 o’clock, which automatically sets local time and the time in the other 23 world cities due to the 24-hour scale engraved on the flange. The black and white disc distinguishes day from night for the user automatically, so there is no possibility of confusion. The timepiece, produced as a limited edition of 35 timepieces, was made in partnership with Jean Todt, a French motor sport executive, who wanted a watch to travel the world with. Profits from the sale of this watch will be transferred to two key initiatives close to Todt’s charities: the Global Campaign for Road Safety and the ICM Brain and Spine Institute, which he co-founded.

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Quatuor
This deep grey watch is made of silicon, chosen for its low weight and its incomparable hardness. It is half the weight of titanium, which is half the weight of steel, yet it is four times harder. Silicon has a similar atomic structure to diamond and working with it requires just as much skilled expertise. The brand also boasts a technological advancement in which four carefully positioned sprung balances work in pairs to compensate immediately for the rate variations caused by the changes in position of the watch when worn. “What the tourbillon achieves during the course of a minute, the Excalibur Quatuor achieves instantly,” the brand says. A classic watch operating at a frequency of 4 Hz is considered to be highly precise. But the Excalibur Quatuor operates at a frequency of 16 Hz. As each balance oscillates four times per second, the frequency of the watch is multiplied by four as the balances do not oscillate simultaneously. The ticking of a classic watch is replaced by what which the brand describes as “the gentler sound of truly high precision.” The timepiece is limited to a production of three pieces. There is a pink gold version of the watch that has a run of 88 pieces.

Cartier Montre Rotonde Double Mystery Tourbillon
Cartier unveiled its new movement at SIHH: the 9454 MC Double Mystery Tourbillon, certified by the Geneva Seal. The flying tourbillon, which turns once on its own axis every 60 seconds, appears to be floating completely free in space, with no visible connection to any gear train. The illusion is complete when the same tourbillon cage performs a second rotation at a rate of one turn every five minutes. The slate-colored dial is made of galvanised, guilloché, silvered open-work grill. The watch hands are sword-shaped in blued steel. It’s all contained in a 45mm platinum case with the crown set with a sapphire cabochon.

Baume & Mercier Clifton Complete Calendar – Moon Phase, Blue Dial
This is one of a series of Clifton watches released by the Swiss watch brand at SIHH This version of the line, the 43 mm Clifton Complete Calendar, has a blue, sun satin-finished dial. The case back has been opened up to allow lovers of fine mechanics to observe the components of its automatic movement (Dubois Dépraz 9000). Its calendar display is mounted upon an alligator strap, which is closed by a triple folding clasp with security push-pieces.

Parmigiani Tonda Woodstock
In order to project a colorful and musical dynamism, the Swiss watch brand turned for the first time to the refined and delicate art of marquetry. This ancient process consists of cutting out and assembling veneers—wooden veneers in this case—on a flat surface in order to create a decoration for the timepiece. The Tonda Woodstock’s special dial is designed with a Gibson guitar motif with an American flag in wood marquetry.

Piaget Emperador Coussin Ultra-Thin Minute Repeater
Thin is in at Piaget and Emperador Coussin unveiled at SIHH shows it continues to set standards in its development of ultra-thin complications housed in ultra-thin cases. This 48mm 18k pink gold watch boasts the Piaget 1290P, which the brand says is world’s thinnest mechanical self-winding minute repeater movement (4.8 mm). The case itself is also considered the world’s thinnest at 9.4 mm. Details of the movement finishes include sunburst guilloché bridges, bridges hand-beveled and hand-drawn with a file, blackened and polished screws.

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Inside the World's Most Exclusive Watch Show

Montblanc, which added Swiss watches to its diverse luxury portfolio in 1997, used its showroom to display many of the contemporary art pieces that are on permanent display at its headquarters in Hamburg. All of the work includes an interpretation of the iconic Momntblanc star. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

GENEVA — The big news last week in this small country with a mighty economy and far-reaching global influence was the annual World Economic Forum held in Davos. Although overshadowed, another important annual event was being held: the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH), arguably the most exclusive watch show in the world. 

By far the youngest and arguably the most innovative of watch brands today, Richard Mille displayed some of this innovation not only in the materials and concepts of its watches, but in its 3D presentation to the press during SIHH. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

The most recent installment of SIHH ended with the 16 watch brands, among the most prestigious in the world, introducing their latest timepieces, often the result of years of intensive research. It’s an invitation only event held each year at the Palexpo exhibition center. This year I was among the more than 13,000 invited guests (which included international retailers, journalists and brand representatives) to attend. 

Roger Dubuis introduced its Excalibur line of watches with a Bird of Prey as the centerpiece of its showroom. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

Twelve of the watch brands exhibiting are owned by Richemont, the Geneva-based luxury holdings company, which is why the event (held Jan. 21 – 25) is often referred to as the Richemont show. 

Decked out for racing the IWC Schaffhausen showroom was one of the most popular during SIHH. the display was used to introduce its Ingenieur Chronograph Racer and Ingenieur Silberpfeil, the second watch dedicated to the famous Mercedes-Benz Silver Arrow racing car. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

There’s been talk about a slowdown in the luxury business, (particularly watches). The growth is slower than the astronomical rise in sales of the past few years, led by China. In fact, one could say that the growth in sales is now at a more normal pace. Richemont numbers point to this as the company reported that third quarter sales increased 5 percent, year-over-year, to 2.86 billion Swiss francs. Its “Specialist Watchmakers” group saw even more growth at 9 percent to 784 million Swiss francs. In addition, annual Swiss watch sales, which are expected soon, are expected to surpass 20 billion Swiss francs for the time ever. 

Butterflies were used tomillustrate the delicate intricacies of Van Cleef & Arpels' new watch and jewelry lines. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

There was some caution among the brand officials when talking sales, but overall, life remains good in the Swiss watch industry. 

The main gathering area at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

A giant replica of its new Grand Complication timepiece was the major design element of the A. Lange & Söhne showroom. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

A look inside Baume & Mercier's summer-in-the Hamptons themed showroom. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

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Richemont 3Q Jewelry Sales Up 20% and Watch Sales Up 21%

Cie. Financiere Richemont SA said Monday that third-quarter revenue rose 33 percent to 2.1 billion euro ($2.8 billion), led by the acquisition of online fashion retailer Net-a-Porter.com. At constant exchange rates (when currency shifts are removed) revenue grew 23 percent.

By category, the Swiss company’s jewelry business (made up of Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels), increased by 20 percent at constant exchange rates (30 percent actual exchange rates) to just over 1 billion Euros ($1.45 billion). Watch sales for the period ended December 31, increased 21 percent (30 percent at actual exchange rates) to 543 million Euros ($720 million). The watch business is made up of the following brands: Jaeger-LeCoultre, Piaget, IWC, Baume & Mercier, Vacheron Constantin, Officine Panerai, A. Lange & Söhne and Roger Dubuis.

By far the largest increase to company’s business is in its “Other” category (up 63 percent), which reflects the purchase last year of luxury e-commerce website, Net-a-Porter.

“Richemont’s Maisons performed well and saw good sales growth, particularly at the retail level, during the three-month period,” said Johann Rupert. Richemont executive chairman and Group CEO. “Sales in the month of December grew by 17 percent at constant exchange rates and excluding the impact of the Net-a-Porter acquisition.”

He added, “Higher comparative figures will make the final quarter of the financial year ending 31 March 2011 more challenging Gross margin is anticipated to be negatively affected by a stronger Swiss franc given the Group's Swiss manufacturing base and by the planned changes to product lines at one of the Group's Specialist Watchmakers, which will be largely implemented during the coming quarter.”

In addition to the companies listed, Richemont owns Montblanc, which makes writing instruments, Purdey, the luxury hunting gun maker, and Alfred Dunhill, the London-based maker of leather goods, fashion and lighters, as well as a watch and jewelry joint venture with Ralph Lauren.

Richemont Jewelry Sales Up 32%, Watches Up 40%; U.S. Sales Up 52%

Richemont headquarters

Swiss luxury goods group Compagnie Financiere Richemont SA said Wednesday that sales for the five-month period, ended August 31, increased 37 percent in actual exchange rates, over the same period a year ago. All segments of the company and all regions saw strong growth, which reflects in part, low comparative figures reported in the prior-year period and recent acquisitions.

Richemont released its financial results for the period before its annual general meeting Wednesday, held at its headquarters in Geneva.

The company saw double-digit growth in all its brands, which it calls “Maisons.” Watch sales—which include Jaeger-LeCoultre, Piaget, IWC, Baume & Mercier, Vacheron Constantin, Officine Panerai, A. Lange & Söhne and Roger Dubuis—reported a year-over-year 40 percent increase at actual exchange rates. When currency fluctuations are included the growth is 30 percent. Jewelry sales—which include Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels—rose 32 percent at actual exchange rates and 21 percent at constant exchange rates.

Its writing instrument brand, Maison Montblanc, grew 28 percent at actual exchange rates and 20 percent at constant exchange rates. Meanwhile, its division listed as “Other,”—which include Alfred Dunhill, Lancel, NET-A-PORTER and Chloé—saw an increase of 62 percent in actual exchange rates (51 percent constant). This is at least partly due to the company’s recent acquisition of the shopping Web site, NET-A-PORTER.

By region, the Americas saw a 52 percent increase (38 percent actual), largely because of very weak comparative figures for the prior fiscal year.

The Asia-Pacific region, which includes the Middle East (51 percent constant, 36 percent actual), is the company’s most important region accounting for 41 percent of overall sales. In Europe, the sales increase of 27 percent at constant exchange rates and 23 percent in actual rates, fall to 15 percent at constant rates when new business is excluded from the figure. Meanwhile, results in Japan, (22 percent constant, 4 percent actual) were boosted due to favorable exchange rates.

In total, its retail division grew 47 percent (34 percent constant). Excluding the acquisition of NET-A-PORTER, retail sales increased by 24 percent at constant exchange rates.

Its wholesale business, which suffered in particular during the comparative period due to de-stocking by business partners in some markets, saw an increase of 30 percent (21 percent constant) for the period.

“The improved trading environment is certainly welcomed. However, it is far too soon to draw any conclusions about the sustainability of the economic recovery or whether the recession is truly behind us,” said Johann Rupert, Richemont executive chairman and CEO. “This time last year we were still seeing falling sales. This year, with double digit sales growth already in hand, Richemont will report significantly higher first half profit. However, the rest of the year is less straightforward. In the second half of last year, we saw some recovery in sales, setting higher comparative figures against which sales in the six months from October to March will be measured. Relative to the present conditions, those comparative figures were achieved with a weaker euro against the dollar and yen. Compared to the second half of last year, the current strength of the Swiss franc will be negative for the cost of sales.”

In addition to the brand’s mentioned, Richemont’s portfolio includes a Ralph Lauren Watch and Jewelry joint venture and other smaller Maisons and watch component manufacturing activities for third parties.