Astronaut Alan Bean’s Omega Speedmaster At Bonhams Space Sale

Alan Bean’s 18k gold Speedmaster Professional Apollo XI chronograph

There are several interesting items at Bonhams Space History Sale on Tuesday but for Omega watch collectors the highlight will no doubt be astronaut Alan Bean’s 18k gold Speedmaster Professional Apollo XI chronograph.

It is number 26 of 30 numbered watches that were given to President Richard Nixon, Vice President Spiro Agnew and 28 Apollo Astronauts, Bonhams said. Its estimate is $40,000 - $60,000. 

If you’re unable to make Bonhams auction in New York Tuesday you can see the two watches that were presented to Nixon and Agnew at the Omega New York boutique till the end of April.

The back of Bean’s watch up for auction is engraved with the words: “Astronaut Alan Bean—to mark man's conquest of space with time, through time, on time. Skylab Mission II [III] Apollo 12.” Bean was the fourth of 12 men to walk on the moon. He served alongside Commander Pete Conrad as the lunar module pilot for Apollo 12, the second mission to put a man on the moon. 

The Omega Speedmaster Apollo XI model was created in the fall of 1969 to commemorate Apollo 11’s successful moon landing on July 20 of the same year. It was presented at a gala dinner in Houston on November 25. 

Cassandra Hatton, Bonhams director of History of Science & Technology, explains that Bean did not attend the event because he was still under quarantine following the successful landing of the Apollo 12 mission on November 20. It was given to him at a later date.

Bonhams Space History Sale coincides with the 50th anniversary of the first American spacewalk, accomplished on the Gemini 4 mission by astronauts James McDivitt and Ed White. In addition to the Omega watch, the auction will present other items belonging to Bean, including the strap from his portable life support system soiled with moon dust, an uneaten meal that accompanied the mission and which Bean kept as a souvenir, and the water dispenser he used to re-hydrate his food.

Around the corner from Bonham’s Madison Avenue auction house, Omega’s 5th Avenue boutique is showing an exhibition of its historical watches that includes the timepieces numbered 1 and 2, presented to Nixon and Agnew. The reason they are in the possession of Omega is because the two US leaders declined to accept the gifts, Petros Protopapas, Omega Museum manager explains. That’s because the two felt it wasn’t appropriate for men in their positions to accept the watches. 

The back of the watch for Nixon and the front of the watch for Agnew.

The two timepieces are part of an exhibition of more than 50 historical Omega watches, along with advertisements and other artifacts on the second floor of watch brand’s New York boutique. All of the items are from the Omega Museum in Biel, Switzerland. The exhibition is open to the public for the remainder of the month. It will then travel to Omega boutiques in Miami, Atlanta, Chicago, Houston and Dallas.

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Valentine’s Day: 10 Lovely Ladies’ Watches with Muscle

The Margot by Christophe Claret

Women deserve timepieces that are not only beautiful and stylish but also have the power and complexity of men’s watches. In other words they should have watches with robust movements and advanced complications. 

During the past few years watch companies have been listening to women who want their watches to be more than just pretty face. 

Keeping this in mind I curated 10 watches in which the majority combine beauty with muscle.

The Margot watch from independent watchmaker Christophe Claret  (top picture) creatively answers the timeless French question, “He loves me... he loves me not.” The center of the dial has a daisy. At each press of a pusher at 2 o’clock one or two petals of the flower disappear. At the same time a “sentiment” is displayed on the dial at 5 o’clock, along with a chime: un peu (a little), beaucoup (a lot), passionnément (passionately), à la folie (madly) and pas du tout (not at all). Both the petals and expressions are presented randomly. Pressing the reset pusher at 4 o’clock makes all petals reappear around the pistil. The blue mother-of-pearl outer dial has pear-shaped diamonds at 3 o’clock, 6 o’clock and 9 o’clock. The display back reveals the EMT17 automatic rotor, a carved, flower-shaped carrousel of colors, with a central cabochon concealing the rotor’s ball bearings.

The Breguet Reine de Naples is a highly complicated watch in a bejeweled oval-shaped case. The 18k white gold bezel and case are set with 131 baguette diamonds. The flange is set with 73 brilliant-cut diamonds and the crown is set with a briolette diamond. Dial in 18k gold enhanced with 147 brilliant-cut diamonds. Complication showing the day and night in the upper half, with the sun represented by the Breguet balance-wheel and a hand-engraved titanium moon, together rotating in 24 hours. The watch is powered by Breguet automatic movement.

The Chopard Happy Sport Tourbillon Joaillerie houses a Chopard L.U.C 02.16-L tourbillon movement. Available in 18k white or rose gold, the diamonds represent snow that entirely carpets the dial. The tourbillon bridge is gem-set and the bezel is embellished with 36 trapeze-cut diamonds. The crown features baguette-cut diamonds and a briolette-cut diamond. Seven diamonds on the tourbillon spin between two sapphire crystals. 

Bulgari Lucea Black is housed in an 18k pink gold case and crown and cabochon-cut pink stone set with a diamond. Powered by the caliber B77 automatic movement with the date window at 3 o’clock. Black dial with sunburst guilloché motif, pink gold-plated hands, hour-markers and Roman numerals.

Baume & Mercier Promesse is a watch practically created for Valentine's Day. Polished and satin-finished steel, this 34 mm watch is powered by a Swiss-made automatic caliber. The silver-colored “drapé guilloché” dial is accented by gilt Roman numerals and diamond-set indexes.

The sale of the Frédérique Constant Ladies Automatic World Heart Federation supports the World Heart Federation’s “Hearts of Children” campaign. The 34mm bi-color stainless steel and plated rose gold case has a bezel set with 48 diamonds. The dial has the WHF logo in the center. It is powered by the FC-303 caliber, automatic movement decorated with the WHF logo and “Hearts of Children” on engraved sunray bridges.

As the name suggests, Girard-Perregaux Cat's Eye Anniversary, celebrates the collection’s 10-year anniversary with a dial blanketed in metallic rays. The dial features a gray-tinted white mother-of-pearl backdrop with 73 sapphires at tips of the rays ranging from bright to pastel pink. The bezel of the iconic oblong case is adorned with 62 brilliant-cut diamonds. It is powered by the GP03300 automatic movement.

Harry Winston Avenue Classic Diamond Drops is set with 29 brilliant-cut diamonds. The white gold case of this watch serves as a frame to showcase the composition of the dial, like a window gazing out towards the sky. The textured base of the dial is shown in shades of grays, creating a contrast to the sparkle of the diamonds. A snow-setting featuring 190 brilliant-cut gems cascades down the dial, providing movement and emotion.

Carl F. Bucherer Pathos Diva stainless steel and 18k rose gold watch is powered by the caliber CFB 1963 automatic movement.

Tissot T-LADY T072 features a rose-gold, PVD case, brown MOP dial surrounded by mother-of-pearl and a two-tone bracelet. It is powered by the Powermatic 80 automatic movement. 

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Daryl Wickstrom To Lead Sotheby’s International Jewelry And Watch Divisions

Sotheby’s on Friday named longtime executive Daryl Wickstrom as international managing director of Sotheby’s Worldwide Jewelry and Watch Divisions. In this newly-created role, he will be tasked with expanding activity and growing sales in these areas, which experienced record results in recent years, the New York-based multinational company said in a statement. 

Wickstrom will work closely with David Bennett, Lisa Hubbard and Quek Chin Yeow, the company’s three Jewelry chairmen, Tim Bourne, worldwide head of Watches, and Patti Wong, chairman of Sotheby’s Diamonds, the company said. He will oversee activities in North America, Europe and Asia, as well as the company’s expanding Sotheby’s Diamonds retail business and related private sales activity.

The announcement was made by Bruno Vinciguerra, Sotheby’s chief operating officer. 

Wickstrom joined Sotheby’s in 1996 and was appointed executive VP and deputy chairman, Asia, in July 2008. He was instrumental in developing the growth strategy in Asia and particularly Sotheby’s expansion in China. During his time in this role, total sales in Asia surpassed $1 billion in 2011.

From 2002 through 2008 Wickstrom served as managing director of Sotheby’s Global Auction Division. During his tenure, he orchestrated many significant single-owner sales and helped launch of Sotheby’s Diamonds retail venture in 2005, the company said.  

In 2013, Sotheby’s saw its highest-ever annual totals for its jewelry and watch categories, with worldwide Jewelry sales achieving $529 million, and worldwide Watch sales reaching $97 million. This spring, Sotheby’s set new benchmark prices for: any jadeite jewel and any jewel by Cartier (the Hutton-Mdivani Necklace, $27.4 million); any yellow diamond and any jewel by Graff (the Graff Vivid Yellow, $16.3 million); and any ruby (29.62-Carat Oval Burmese Ruby, $7.3 million). In addition, world auction records were set this spring at Sotheby’s for several iconic models by Patek Philippe: any Ref. 5207P ($867,000); any contemporary time-only watch by the firm ($737,000); any Celestial model ($545,000); and any Ref. 5033 ($509,000).

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Jewelry and Watches Sparkle at Cannes

Cate Blanchett wears wears 18k white gold and sapphire drop earrings from Chopard's Red Carpet Collection.

Chopard’s longtime association with the Cannes Film Festival has been fruitful. The glamorous event provides the luxury jewelry and watch brand with high-level international stage for its jewelry and watches.

Julianne Moore in 18k white gold set with round shaped emeralds of 22.11 carats and 21.66 carats each, 2 pear shaped rubies of 2.05 carats and 2.11 carats each and multicolored sapphires, rubies, emeralds, amethysts and tsavorites from Chopard's Red Carpet Collection. Photo credit: David M. Benett/Getty Images for Lionsgate

Each year Chopard creates the Palme d’Or, the trophy given to the best film of the international festival, as well as other awards. The company also uses the world’s most glamorous film festival to unveil its “Red Carpet Collection” of high jewels, which are worn by actresses and models on the festival red carpet and events hosted by the luxury brand.

Karlie Kloss unveils a new addition to Chopard's Green Carpet high jewelry collection, earrings with a lacework of Fairmined white gold and 13.49 carats of pear-cut diamonds with brilliant-cut and marquise-cut diamonds.

Chopard also scored on another level by partnering with Oscar winning actress Cate Blanchett. Her beauty and rgace have proven to be perfect fir for the Swiss luxury jewelry and watch brand. At Cannes, she played a starring role for Chopard wearing white gold earrings with 62 amethysts on the Red Carpet, and presenting the Trophée Chopard, also created by the brand, for best young actors, to French actress Adèle Exarchopoulos and American actor Logan Lerman.

The Palme d'Or award given to the best film at Cannes was for the first time created with Fairmined gold, which guarantees strict respect for the rules of economic, social and environmental development in the mining process.

Chopard also did its part in turning the red carpet green. The brand partners with Livia Firth, founder and creative director of Eco-Age, created a program named “The Journey to Sustainable Luxury” using “Fairmined” gold—extracted by artisanal and small-scale miners certified under the standard created by the Alliance for Responsible Mining. This label guarantees strict respect for the rules of economic, social and environmental development in the mining process.

Rosario Dawson wears the Montblanc Princess Grace de Monaco Pétales de Rose earrings and bracelet on the Red Carpet at "The Captive" Film Premiere. 

This year’s Palme d’Or was made in Fairminded gold. In addition, the luxury brand used American fashion model, Karlie Kloss to unveil a new addition to its Green Carpet high jewelry collection, launched a year ago using Fairminded gold. Kloss wore earrings that feature a lacework of Fairmined white gold and 13.49 carats of pear-cut diamonds, with brilliant-cut and marquise-cut diamonds.

Zoe Saldana in de Grisogono rose gold Catene earrings set with white diamonds and a rose gold ring featuring white diamonds from the Onde Collection.

The company explained the program in great detail during the Baselworld watch and jewelry show in March where it unveiled the L.U.C Tourbillon QF Fairmined watch, the first watch in the world made of Fairmined gold.

Sonia Rolland in Montblanc Princess Grace de Monaco Collection Pétales de Rose motif earrings, bracelet and six petals ring.

While Chopard held center stage at the 11-day festival, it was not alone. German luxury brand Montblanc dressed several European and American actors and models in its new Meisterstück Heritage Collection timepieces and Montblanc Princesse Grace de Monaco fine jewelry collection.

Arnold Schwarzenegger in U-1942 watch by U-Boat by Italo Fontana.

Another company long associated with Cannes, de Grisogono, the Swiss luxury jewelry and watch brand, adorned actress Zoe Saldana with a pair of rose gold Catene earrings set with white diamonds and a rose gold ring featuring white diamonds from the Onde Collection.

Antonio Banderas with Schwarzenegger wearing the Montblanc TimeWalker Chronograph steel and red gold.

Other jewelry and watch brands making their mark at Cannes included Carla Amorim, Jack Vartanian and U-Boat by Italo Fontana.

Rosario Dawson is seen again at Cannes, this time in red sapphire and black gold earrings by the Brazilian jewelry designer, Carla Amorim.

One of the most visible actors at Cannes was Rosario Dawson who was seen throughout the event wearing Montblanc, Carla Amorim and Jack Vartanian.

Christina Hendricks in Jack Vartanian Universe diamond ear climbers.

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Kering Strengthens its Focus On Luxury Jewelry and Watches

Tilda Swinton wearing colorful Pomellato rings. The Italian jeweler is owned by Kering.

French multinational holding company Kering (previously known as PPR) continues its transformation (at least three years in the making) into a luxury and lifestyle conglomerate with the recent announcement that it has reorganized most of its luxury brands into two divisions and appointed executives to lead those groups.

Albert Bensoussan, 55, a former LVMH executive, was named CEO of the “Luxury – Watches and Jewelry” division, which will house the brands Boucheron, Girard-Perregaux, JeanRichard, Pomellato, Dodo and Qeelin.

The last three brands (Italian jewelers Pomellato and Dodo; and Hong Kong based jeweler Qeelin) were purchased by Kering within the past two years and is evidence of its pursuit of luxury jewelry companies.

Meanwhile, Marco Bizzarri, 51, a Kering employee who most recently served as president and CEO of Bottega Veneta, was named CEO of the “Luxury – Couture & Leather Goods” division, which will be made up of Bottega Veneta, Saint Laurent, Alexander McQueen, Balenciaga, Brioni, Christopher Kane, McQ, Stella McCartney, Tomas Maier and Sergio Rossi.

Bizzarri remains president of Bottega Veneta until a new CEO is appointed.

Gucci will remain under the responsibility of Patrizio di Marco, chairman and CEO, who will remain under Pinault’s supervision.

Both appointments take effect in May. They will both report to François-Henri Pinault, Kering chairman and CEO.

“The new structure reflects the specific character of the businesses of the Group’s different brands, and will provide better responses to their particular needs, adapted to each brand’s stage of development,” Pinault said in the April 24 announcement. “The introduction of this structure is a logical stage in the formation of a more integrated group, to further accelerate the development of our brands while respecting the autonomy and individual identity of each of them.”

Bensoussan, Bizzarri and di Marco are all members of Kering’s executive committee.

Along with the new appointments there will be resignation. Alexis Babeau, managing director of Kering’s luxury division since 2011, said he had successfully fulfilled his mission and wanted to take his career in a new direction. Pinault credited him for the development of luxury brands first at Gucci Group and then at Kering.

“Alexis played a key role in identifying and implementing operational synergies between our brands, while maintaining the creative independence that makes each of them unique,” Pinault said.

In addition, Pinault said he will remain the chairman of the board at Saint Laurent. “Saint Laurent is at a pivotal moment in its history and reform as undisputed reference for Parisian elegance,” Pinault said. “Retaining its chairmanship ensures the preservation of the unique individuality and positioning of this historical French Couture House.”

Kering also has a “Sport & Lifestyle” division with the brands Puma, Volcom, Cobra, Electric and Tretorn.

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From the Artistic to the Mechanical, Ladies Watches at SIHH 2014

Ballon Bleu De Cartier Floral-Marquetry Parrot Watch

After a detour into mechanical movements and masculine looks last year, the 16 luxury brands at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) for 2014 returned largely to watches for ladies that highlight artistry and jewelry. That’s not to say there aren’t many mechanical timepieces on offer at this year’s show. What there is, however, is more variety than in previous years. The new releases this year give women have a choice between pure beauty, high-end mechanics or both.

Ballon Bleu De Cartier Floral-Marquetry Parrot Watch
This year, Cartier has taken up what it says is a new craft in watchmaking: floral marquetry, along with jewelry, to create a colorful parrot on the dial of this watch with a blue and the orangey-yellow plumage, a deep black of the beak, an emerald green eye and sparkling white diamonds in the background of the dial and on the crown on the 18k white and pink gold watch.

To create this dial (top image), flower petals were gathered and colored. Then each petal was stuck onto a thin piece of wood and cut into the desired shape using a marquetry saw. The material contrasts with the shine of the onyx beak and emerald eye. The grey and black feathers surrounding the eye were created with miniature painting.

The 42mm watch is powered by the Cartier Caliber 049. It is available in a limited edition of 20 pieces.

Parmigiani: The Tonda Pomellato
This watch collection is a partnership between Swiss luxury watch brand Parmigiani and Italian luxury jewelry brand Pomellato. Three of the four watches in this line are based on Pomellato’s “Arabesque” collection, characterized by an openwork lace-like design in rose gold, which gives way to transparent elements with colored gems.

The Arabesque style of the Pomellato ring that provided the inspiration of the watch design.

The Arabesque pattern was reproduced using two distinct treatments. First, the dial received an opaline surface treatment. Then the arabesque pattern is superimpose through a silkscreen printed transfer which covers the opaline. A second sand-blasting treatment is then applied, which adheres to all the surfaces not covered by the transfer. The result is the pattern, which has the appearance of a shadow, that seems to be flush with the dial. The watch is powered by the automatic Caliber PF701. The 39mm 18k rose gold case set with 28 round diamonds along the bezel.

Piaget Rose Passion
This is a classic “secret watch” in 18k white gold set with a total of 707 brilliant-cut diamonds and one pink sapphire. The timepiece comes with a white satin strap. The petite dial of the watch can be hidden within the rose-shaped bejeweled watch case.

Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Fabuleux Ornements – Ottoman architecture
This piece is part of a four-watch collection that showcases several of the brand’s skeletonization and engraving skills and reflects a different culture and moment in history. For this piece Ottoman architecture was the inspiration. A pink-gold lattice motif is perched on a mother-of-pearl base. The gold grid-work in scrolling patterns is studded with half-pearl beads.

However, this watch is more than just an elaborately sculptured pretty face. It is powered by the in-house manufactured and engraved Caliber 1003SQ. The hand-wound movement with 117 components is exceptionally petite, just 21.1mm in diameter and 1.64mm thick.

Richard Mille Tourbillon Natalie Portman
This timepiece is created in partnership with Oscar award-winning actress Natalie Portman, who is also a worldwide partner of the brand. The aesthetic focus of this watch is a diamond-encrusted stylized spider that appears trapped in a tonneau-shaped, diamond-covered case. The abdomen of the spider supports the bridges of the tourbillon (made of grade 5 titanium), and its legs support the two winding barrels. The RM19-01 manual winding tourbillon caliber is assembled around a black rhodium-plated, 18k white gold black sapphire set baseplate, a first for Richard Mille. It is available in a limited edition of 20 pieces. It will be worn by the actress at events worldwide.

Ralph Lauren Stirrup
The stirrup name refers to the shape of the case. This year the designer came up with two new medium-sized editions of the watch line—in steel and the one pictured in 18k gold with the case and chain-link bracelet covered in more than 1,900 diamonds in 20 different sizes. It is powered by the caliber RL057 quartz movement.

Lady Arpels Zodiac Taurus Extraordinary Dial
This is one of a collection of 12 watches that replicate the Western Zodiac signs created by Van Cleef & Arpels. The colorful dial depicts a white gold and diamond pavé Taurus the Bull on top of translucent enamel in the shape of leaves with blue flowers made of lapis lazuli with white-gold stars with a small diamond in the center of each. The 38mm white gold case has a bezel set with round diamonds. It has a hand-wound mechanical movement and is available in a limited edition of 22 pieces.

Ballon Blanc de Cartier
This jewelry watch has a mother-of-pearl flinqué (hand-engraved) dial and blue-steel, sword-shaped hands. A single round diamond at 4 o’clock stands out among other smaller round diamonds that encircle the bezel. The 24 mm 18k pink gold case is finished with a bracelet consisting of five rows of smooth 18k pink gold beads.

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China Slows; Europe, US, Middle East Show Strength as Richemont Brands Prepare for SIHH 2014

Jaeger-LeCoultre Duomètre Unique Travel Time

The Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie, considered by many to be the most luxurious and the most exclusive watch fair in the world, begins Monday. A total of 16 luxury brands, nearly all owned by luxury conglomerate Richemont SA, will be providing the first glimpse of what’s in store for 2014 in the world of high-end watches and, to a lesser extent, jewelry.

For the past few years, China has been the largest and fastest growing market for luxury watches and jewelry. However, there may be a shift in the global economy. The Hurun Report, which covers all things wealthy in China, said overall spending on luxury goods dropped 15 percent in Mainland China during the past year and gift-giving spending dropped 25 percent, possibly due to stronger anti-corruption initiatives. For the first time in five years, watch collecting as a pastime lost out to collecting traditional Chinese ink paintings.

Richemont in its preliminary third quarter earnings report said its total sales increased 3 percent to nearly $4 billion. At constant-exchange rates, growth was at 9 percent. 

Jewelry sales rose 4 percent for the period (10 percent at constant exchange rates) and watch sales rose 3 percent (9 percent at constant exchange rates). Montblanc, which sells luxury writing instruments and leather goods in addition to watches and jewelry, saw its sales slide by 4 percent (1 percent increase at constant exchange rates).

By region, the two strongest markets in terms of growth were the combined Europe and Middle East area, which saw its sales grow by 7 percent (9 percent at constant exchange rates) to 1.08 billion euro ($1.37 billion) followed by the Americas region where growth was pegged at 6 percent (12 percent at constant exchange rates) to 480 million euro ($649 million). 

Meanwhile, the Asia-Pacific, led by China, grew by 1 percent (6 percent at constant exchange rates) to 1.13 billion euro ($1.52 billion). 

For SIHH, innovations in this small selection of watches that are listed below seem to be more conservative, perhaps due to the shifting global luxury economy. The use of light-weight and ultra-strong materials are not new but seem to be more prevalent this year and are being used more creatively. The five timepieces below represent a glimpse into what the brands will be presenting this coming week. I expect there will be some surprises once the show begins.

Audemars Piguet
The newest version of the Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon features a white ceramic bezel, crown and push-pieces instead of black, all contained in a titanium case. In addition, the watchmaker incorporated ceramic into the movement itself, replacing the blackened upper bridge of Caliber 2913 with white ceramic. The GMT display provides an instant reading of the time in a second time-zone. It is adjusted using the push-piece at 4 o’clock (one press adjusts the time by one hour). The indication of the second time-zone, based on 12 hours, comprises two superimposed discs. The first, on which the figures are inscribed, completes one turn in 12 hours. The second, just below, completes a turn in 24 hours and has 2 colored areas: a white half for daytime and a black half for night-time. The double-barrel system ensures that the watch will runs for as long as 10 days before it needs to be manually wound.

Jaeger-LeCoultre 
The Le Sentier-based luxury watch brand’s SIHH introductions include the Duomètre Unique Travel Time (top photo), which the company says is the first world-time watch with a “to-the-minute adjustment” of a second time zone. This enables travelers to accurately set the second time zone on all continents and countries regardless of the time difference. The watch employs a “dual-wing” system that divides the Caliber 383 movement into two distinct mechanisms: the first for displaying the local time and the second showing the correct time in a second time zone. The two mechanisms share the same regulating organ but each has its own independent source of energy, thereby avoiding the losses due to interaction between the mechanisms. Each mechanism has a 50-hour power reserve and the same crown serves to wind both barrels. The timekeeping barrel is wound by a counter-clockwise rotation and the travel-time barrel by a clockwise rotation. 

Two subdials, the first at 2 o’clock displays the hour and minute hand; while the second at 10 o’clock hosts the jumping hour and minutes of the travel time. The globe at 6 o’clock displays a world map surrounded by the time-zone indications and the day/night ring. The single crown is used to adjust the local time in position 2 and the travel time in position 1, and to wind the mainsprings. Once both time zones are synchronized, the traveler can use the push-pieces at 8 and 10 o’clock to adjust the jumping hours in the left subdial according to the destination. For non-standard time zones, the minutes can be adjusted separately using the crown in position 1.

Montblanc
The venerable luxury brand is celebrating the 10th anniversary of its TimeWalker collection with the TimeWalker Extreme Chronograph DLC. The watch is covered in a “diamond-like carbon (DLC)” coating described as “Black 4”, which stands for “very black.” The company says it is nearly impossible to fabricate a darker black. The watch is powered by the automatic mechanical Caliber MB 4810/507 equipped with an integrated chronograph function. The black of the new TimeWalker chronograph´s case continues in different shades on the large planar dial. The three subdials—one that reads seconds and two chronograph’s elapsed-time counters—are positioned at 6, 9 and 12 o’clock. Anthracite-grey ruthenium-colored hands and luminescent Superluminova numerals provide contrast to the dark watch. The finishing touch is a black vulcanized rubber strap. 

Ralph Lauren
The brand will be introducing several timepieces for men and women. Among them is the safari adventure “aged-steel” watch available for the first time in a 39mm size. Powered by the RL300-1 caliber, the ultra-masculine case of the RL67 Chronometer 39mm is created through a treatment that transforms the blackened steel into a patina finish. The rugged aesthetic is enhanced with a matte-varnished anthracite dial with dial two luminescent sword-shaped hands and a shiny orange baton stem. The self-winding wristwatch is worn on an olive-green “weathered” canvas strap that pays tribute to the visual accents of an explorer’s shoulder bag.

Vacheron Constantin 
The oldest and one of the most prestigious Swiss watchmaker, Vacheron Constantin, will introduce the latest version of its Malte Tourbillon Collection Excellence Platine. The pure, uncluttered platinum dial with a sandblasted finish is discreetly adorned with the inscription “Pt 950” appearing between 4 and 5 o’clock. along with white gold Roman numerals and hour-markers. The tourbillon bearing the seconds hand is at the 6 o’clock position. The platinum tonneau-shaped case measures 38 x 48.24mm. Platinum is also used for the folding clasp on the dark blue alligator strap. The timepiece is powered by the 169-part mechanical hand-wound caliber 2795 with a power reserve of almost two days. The tourbillon carriage displays the brand’s signature Maltese cross emblem.

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A ‘Shocked’ and ‘Disappointed’ Tiffany & Co. Ordered to Pay $450 Million to Swatch Group

A long, simmering dispute between two powerhouses in the luxury jewelry and watch world appears to have come to an end when a Dutch arbitration panel ordered Tiffany & Co. to pay 402 million Swiss francs ($450 million) to Swatch Group for breach of contract. In addition, a counter-claim by Tiffany & Co. was dismissed by the panel.

The dispute, which has been ongoing since 2011, was argued before the Netherlands Arbitration Institute, which provides a confidential way of resolving such disagreements. The result of the arbitration in Swatch’s favor was announced in a very brief statement by the watch company Sunday followed by a much longer statement filed with the Securities & Exchange Commission Monday morning by Tiffany. 

Tiffany cut its forecast for the year based on the ruling and it says it will continue to seek legal remedies.

“We were shocked and extremely disappointed with the decision of the majority of the arbitral panel,” said Michael J. Kowalski, Tiffany chairman and CEO, in the SEC statement. “We firmly believe the panel’s ruling is not supported by the facts of this case or the various agreements between the Swatch parties and the Tiffany parties. While we are reviewing our options with our legal counsel, I want to assure you that we do have sufficient financial resources to pay the full amount. We will record a charge for the after-tax impact of the award, which we estimate to be approximately $295 - 305 million, in the fourth quarter.”

In 2007, the two companies announced that they signed an agreement to produce and market watches under the Tiffany & Co. brand name. In September 2011, Swatch Group had terminated the collaboration for what it termed as a breach of contract and pressed claims for damages in December 2011 against Tiffany. In March 2012, Tiffany filed a counterclaim with the court of arbitration in charge.

The original agreement between the two parties was that Swatch Group—which produces, markets and sells watches under approximately 20 brands from the popular low-cost Swatch watch to the prestige and luxury brand, Breguet—was to design and produce watches under the Tiffany brand name. Those watches were to be sold through Tiffany stores around the world. Tiffany apparently didn’t think the watches created by Swatch fit their brand image. Swatch charged that Tiffany did little to market and sell those watches.

Tiffany noted in its statement that one of the three members of the arbitration panel issued a dissenting opinion and that the amount awarded reflects approximately 8.8 percent of the damages claimed by Swatch.

Tiffany, according to its statement, was also ordered to pay two-thirds of the cost of arbitration (approximately $800,000) and two-thirds of the cost of legal fees ($8.8 million).

 “We do not believe that the award will impact our ability to realize our existing business plans in the short or long term, and we are extremely pleased to be moving forward with our plans to design, produce, market and distribute our own Tiffany & Co. brand watches,” Kowalski said.

Kowalski said the payments will be made from cash on hand and funds available under its existing debt facilities. The company said that the charges associated with the award will reduce earnings per diluted share for the fiscal year ended January 31, 2014, to $2.30 - $2.35 from the guidance of $3.65 - $3.75, issued a month earlier.

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Nine Timely Luxury Watch Gifts for the Holidays

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Contemporaine Ultra-Thin Caliber 1731 combines the complexity of a striking mechanism with the additional challenge of producing the thinnest minute repeater caliber and the thinnest minute repeater watch on the market—at just 3.90 and 8.09 mm thin respectively. It has a 65-hour power reserve, a silent flying strike governor, which steadies the rate at which the hammers strike the gongs. It is available at Vacheron Constantin boutiques.

Buying a luxury watch as a gift can be a downright terrifying experience. The choices are near endless in this day and age.

Montblanc Nicolas Rieussec Rising Hours Chronograph relies on two discs, one atop the other, to show not only the hours, but to also indicate whether it is day or night. This unusual time display is made possible by Montblanc’s caliber MB R220. The chronograph tallies 60 elapsed seconds and 30 elapsed minutes on rotating discs with motionless hands. It is available at Montblanc boutiques.

Fortunately, I put together a list of nine watches that cover a variety of mechanical variations, designs and lifestyle attributes. There are watches in all shapes, styles and prices. Some of the world’s most prestigious watch brands are represented as well as critically acclaimed independent brands. There are ultra thin watches. There are watches in line with a lifestyle pursuit, such as high-powered automobiles or world travel. Several watches on the list have fanciful complications. Then there are the timepieces that speak to history and heritage. There’s even a watch brand that’s made in America.

Arnold & Son HM Perpetual Moon boasts one of the biggest moonphase apertures on the market along with rich guilloché dials and three-dimensional big moon. The 42mm, 18k red gold case houses the Arnold & Son caliber A&S1512 mechanical hand-wound movement. It has a one day-deviation every 122 years, at which point a single push on the corrector will keep it in sync for another 122 years. It retails for $28,550.

Surely there is something on this short list that could be a perfect gift for that special man in your life.

Nomos Glashütte Zürich Weltzeit 5th Avenue watch was designed in Zurich built in its manufacturing facility in Glashütte, Germany, and dedicated to New York. It’s powered by the Nomos in-house caliber Xi. To view the time in another zone, press the button above the crown at 2 o’clock until the desired location is at 12 o’clock. The “New York” display is at the 3 o’clock marker in red typeface next to a 24-hour disc. It is available at Wempe stores worldwide, limited to 100 pieces. 

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Jaquet Droz Grande Heure GMT has 24 indexes in Arabic numerals set around a Grand Feu enamel dial make it easy to see all the hours of the day in two cities. The hands are designed in the form of a compass. The red hand indicates local time while the blued steel hand shows the time at the destination. When the two hands come together in the same time zone they merge into a single, bi-colored indication of the exact time. 

For the first time the Piaget Altiplano watch integrates a calendar and holds its place as the thinnest watch in the world in its category. The 40 mm watch has an 18k rose gold case set with 72 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 1 ct). The 1205P ultra-thin automatic mechanical movement is the thinnest in the world (3 mm thick), with small seconds and date and a 22k rose-gold oscillating weight.

The Dubey & Schaldenbrand Grand Dome R92 has a stainless steel tonneau-shaped column wheel chronograph combines vintage movements with modern craftsmanship and design. The R92 movement was originally fabricated in the 1950s. It uses a swivel-pinion design to synchronize the chronograph components. The dial is exposed providing full view of the movement. It retails for $16,700.

Graham Silverstone “RennSport” Skeleton reflects the accuracy and efficiency of automobile mechanics, showcases all parts of the caliber G1790 chronograph movement. The 46 mm steel case has polished bevel horns. A lateral porthole on the case at 10 o’clock provides a view of the escapement and balance wheel. Limited to 250 pieces it retails for $14,580. 

Devon Tread 2 Shining is manufactured in Los Angeles. It runs on Devon’s distinctive Time Belt movement and powered by a lithium-polymer rechargeable battery that can power the movement for up to 28 days. It retails for $9,950.

Only Watch Charity Timepiece Auction Raises $6.85 Million

The fifth edition of the biennial Only Watch auction held September 28 at the Hermitage Hotel in Monaco raised a record of more than 5 million euros (more than $6.85 million), with all proceeds benefiting research for Duchenne muscular dystrophy. 

You can view all the watches from the auction by following this link.

The auction, part of the Monaco Yacht Show, attracted competitive bidding from China, Belgium, Switzerland, Kazakhstan, the United States, Monaco and many other parts of the world, according to the statement from Antiquorum Auctioneers, one of the event organizers. The other organizers were Association Monegasque Contre les Myopathies, the Monaco Yacht Show and the 33 watch brands who created one-of-a-kind timepieces for the event. Also up for bid was a selection of 14 vintage champagne bottles from Lanson. 

Participating watch brands were: Backes & Strauss, Bell & Ross, Blancpain, Breguet, Chanel, Chopard, Chronoswiss, Christophe Claret, Corum, Cyrus, deLaCour, De Bethune, DeWitt, Frédérique Constant, Girard Perregaux, Harry Winston, Hublot, Ikepod, Jaquet Droz, Julien Coudray, Laurent Ferrier, Louis Vuitton, Maurice Lacroix, Montblanc,  Patek Philippe, Piaget, Richard Mille, Roger Dubuis, Armin Strom, Ulysse Nardin, Vacheron Constantin, Van Cleef & Arpels and Zenith.

The auction was preceded with a worldwide preview that made stops in Tokyo, Singapore, Hong Kong, Shanghai, Beijing, New York City, Geneva and finally at the world renowned Monaco Yacht  Show.

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