Rivière ‘Triple X’ Necklace Tops $1.2 Million At Bonhams Auction

Photo by Anthony DeMarco

A diamond rivière necklace with 51 “Triple X-cut” rated diamonds sold for $1.2 million (including premium) at Bonham’s New York Fine Jewelry sale. It was the top item of the sale held Monday by the international auction house.

Triple X (also known as “Triple Ex”) is an informal designation, mostly within the trade, that means a diamond that has received excellent polish, symmetry and cut grades. Only round and round brilliant cut diamonds can receive this designation.

Each diamond in the necklace is accompanied by a Gemological Institute of America report that states it’s three excellence grades. The graduated line of 51 round brilliant-cut diamonds weighs more than 70 carats. They are joined together by a heart-shaped diamond clasp weighing 2.04 carats. The diamonds are mounted in platinum.

Even though the necklace commanded a seven-figure price, it sold below its $1.4 million - $1.8 million estimate.

There were a number of items that failed to sell along with some pieces that shattered estimates. In many ways it reflected the inconsistent spring auction season for jewelry, which quietly came to an end.

Colored gems, very popular in recent years, did well, as well as Art Deco and Belle Époque and Art Deco pieces. Signed pieces by Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier and Tiffany & Co. also saw mixed results. Several colorless diamonds rings sold well.

Susan Abeles, Bonhams director of US Jewellery, was pleased with a number of sales throughout the auction.

“Color I think was outstanding,” she said following the auction. “Emeralds and other fine colored stones did very well. We saw more interest in large round diamonds. Beautiful signed items retained their value and worldwide interest.”

Among the top sellers were:

Photo by Anthony DeMarco

* A 25-carat sapphire and diamond ring by the M. Gerard French jewelry house (pictured above) sold for $581,000, beating its high estimate. The richly colored crystal sapphire’s unusual octagonal cut makes this a very rare find. The sapphire is flanked by triangular-cut diamonds and is mounted in 18k gold.

* Emerald and diamond earrings, each suspended by an emerald bead (30 carats total) with a yellow gold cap and topped with two round brilliant-cut diamonds (3.80 carats total) that sold for $118,750. Nearly double its high estimate of $60,000.

* Two diamond rings sold for the identical price of $106,250. A 3.51-carat cut-cornered rectangular step-cut diamond on a ring flanked by tapered baguette-cut diamonds and mounted in platinum. The other was a ring centered by a 7.37-carat round diamond set in 18k gold and platinum.

* Early in the auction a turn of the century imperial topaz and diamond pendant brooch, circa 1900 (pictured above), centered by an oval cushion-cut imperial topaz and suspended by a detachable imperial topaz briolette sold for $87,500, totally smashing its high estimate of $9,000.

* A fancy colored diamond and sapphire ring designed as a pavé-set diamond with a geometric plaque that sold for $52,500, within its estimate. The plaque centers a lozenge brilliant-cut light gray-blue colored diamond weighing 0.92 carat with acalibré-cut sapphire surround;

* A colorful black opal ring (pictured above) flanked by diamonds and mounted in platinum sold for $16,250, smashing its $7,000 high estimate.

Among the items that were passed by bidders were:

* A 3.56-carat cut-cornered, rectangular-cut fancy intense pink diamond on a ring with an estimate of $600,000 - $800,000, enhanced by a pavé-set diamond surround and mounted in 18k white and yellow gold;

* A ring designed as a pavé-set diamond star with an oval modified brilliant-cut fancy deep blue diamond in the center, which weighs 0.71 carat (est. $250,000 - $350,000);

* A 5.02-carat cut-cornered, square modified brilliant-cut fancy yellow diamond on a ring flanked by fancy-cut diamonds within a pavé-set diamond surround (est. $50,000 - $60,000).

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21-Carat Kashmir Sapphire Fetches $4.2 Million, Shatters Estimates

Rare colored gems continue to show their strength in the auction market as a 21.71-carat Kashmir sapphire easily topped the results at Christie’s New York Important Jewels sale, Tuesday.

Called “The Kelly Sapphire” prior to the auction, the dark-blue natural gem sold for $4.2 million, more than double its high estimate ($193,000 per carat). The stone is mounted on ring by Cartier flanked by two trapeze-shaped diamonds.

The sapphire was from the private collection of Margaret Adderley Kelly, who, along with her husband and son, help shape the national employment agency and recruitment firm, Kelly Services, Inc., into a Fortune 500 company.

The collection of 28 lots from the original “Kelly Girl” all sold, fetching $9.8 million, nearly double its pre-sale estimate of $5 million. Two other items were among the 10 best selling lots at the auction. They are: an Art Deco necklace featuring a 16.24-carat D-color, internally flawless, VS2, pear-shaped diamond pendant, that sold for more than $2.2 million (pictured above), just above its high estimate of $2 million; and a Burmese ruby and diamond cluster necklace (pictured below) that sold for $845,000, well above its $600,000 high estimate.

Christie’s auction of 230 lots totaled nearly $27.6 million, with 79 percent sold by lot and 94 percent sold by value. It marked the last jewelry auction of the spring season for the international auction house. The top lots were largely dominated by colored gems and diamonds, and statement white diamonds. 

The second highest sale of the event was an 80.73-carat cushion-cut, K-color diamond that sold for $3.8 million, within its estimate. The purchaser was listed as SIBA Corp.

Other top lots in the sale include: 

* A 9.97-carat, cushion-cut, Kashmir sapphire that sold for more than $1.1 million

* A 28-carat cushion-cut Intense Fancy Yellow, VS2 diamond that sold for $857,000

* A 27.83-carat rectangular-cut Ceylon sapphire that sold for $845,000, well above its $500,000 high estimate

* A 25.82-carat cushion-cut, K-color, VS2 diamond, that sold for $725,000, just above its high estimate

With the latest auction results, sales at Christie’s jewelry department totaled $69.5 million for the first half of 2015. 

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‘Kelly Sapphire’ And 16-Ct. Diamond Necklace Each May Fetch $2 Million

Art Deco necklace with 16.24-carat D-color, internally flawless, VS2, pear-shaped diamond

The jewels of business woman and philanthropist, Margaret Adderley Kelly, will lead Christie’s final jewelry auction of the spring season in New York on Tuesday. The 28 lots in the private collection include a Cartier Kashmir sapphire ring and an Art Deco diamond pendant necklace along with large diamond and gold suites, a variety of pearls and several ruby and sapphire pieces.

Ms. Kelly along with her husband, the late William R. Kelly, and their son, Mr. Terence E. Adderley, shaped the national employment agency and recruitment firm, Kelly Services, Inc., into a Fortune 500 company that now employs more than 550,000 people globally. 

One of the top lots is called “The Kelly Sapphire,” (pictured above) a Cartier signed ring centered with a 21.71-carat Kashmir sapphire with no traces of heat enhancement. The stone is flanked by two trapeze-shaped diamonds. Its estimate is $1.5 million - $2 million. 

The other item of note in the Kelly collection is an Art Deco necklace that features a 16.24-carat D-color, internally flawless, VS2, pear-shaped diamond pendant (top photo). Its estimate is $1.6 million to $2 million.

The diverse offering of more than 200 lots at Christie’s New York Important Jewels sale on Tuesday includes a group of colored and colorless diamonds, rare gemstones, and signed designer jewels.

Other auction highlights include:

* An 80.73-carat cushion-cut, K-color diamond with an estimate of $3 million - $5 million

* A 9.97-carat, cushion-cut, Kashmir sapphire with an estimate of $950,000 - $1.25 million

* A 28-carat cushion-cut Intense Fancy Yellow, VS2 diamond with an estimate of $700,000 - $900,000

* A 25.82-carat cushion-cut, K-color, VS2 diamond with an estimate of $600,000 - $700,000

* A 15.54-carat cut-cornered step-cut diamond by Cartier with an estimate of $330,000 - $450,000

* An Art-Deco diamond bracelet by Cartier with an estimate of $380,000 - $450,000

* A necklace with a 5.06-carat, pear-shaped D-color diamond and a 1.68-carat, pear-shaped fancy purplish-pink diamond, with an estimate of $280,000 - $350,000

* A 14.5-carat cut-corned fancy yellow diamond by Graff with an estimate of $250,000 - $350,000

* A 7.27 oval cut Colombian emerald with an estimate of $260,000 – $300,000

Kashmir Sapphire Sets Record, Jackie O’s Van Cleef Rubies Fetch $302,000, Spanish Royal Brooch Failed To Sell

Van Cleef & Arpels ruby and diamond ear pendants owned by Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis

It was a busy evening at at Christie’s Geneva Magnificent Jewels sale held Wednesday. The auction of 341 lots were led by statement diamonds, gems with exceptional origins and natural pearls. However, there were downsides as an historically significant and highly touted Spanish royal brooch was among the 23 percent of lots that did not sell.  

Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis ruby ring

One of the most anticipated lots in the sale was Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis’ ruby ear clips by Van Cleef & Arpels and a ruby ring. The items sold as a set for $301,959. The jewels were a wedding gift from Aristotle Onassis in 1968. Each ear pendant top is designed as an openwork pavé-set diamond leaf, suspending a detachable cabochon ruby and brilliant-cut diamond cluster pendant. The ring is centered by a heart-shaped cabochon ruby within a brilliant-cut diamond surround to the pavé-set diamond shoulder.

The top lot of the sale was a 5.18-carat rectangular-cut Fancy Vivid Pink diamond on a ring (pictured above) that sold for just over $10.7 million (more than $2 million per carat). The gem was set in gold within an oval-shaped diamond surround. This was followed by a 55.52-carat pear shaped D-color, Flawless diamond that sold for just over $9 million. 

Colored gems of exceptional origins continue to show its strength. A cushion-shaped Kashmir sapphire ring of 35.09 carats (pictured above) sold for a world auction record price of $7.35 million ($209,689 per carat). A cushion-shaped Burmese ruby ring of 30.20 carats sold for $3.4 million ($112,850 per carat). 

A late 19th century single-strand natural pearl necklace, measuring approximately 11.1 to 7.8 mm, sold for more than $3.8 million. 

Historic Maria Christina Royal Devant-de-Corsage brooch that failed to sell

At the other end of the spectrum, the historically significant Maria Christina Royal Devant-de-Corsage brooch was pulled from the auction. It had an estimate of $1.5 to $2 million. The brooch was presented as a wedding gift in November 1879 from King Alfonso XII of Spain to his wife, the Archduchess Maria Christina of Austria, soon to be Queen Consort and then Queen Regent of Spain. The brooch, which was highly touted by Christie’s before the sale, is part of the collection belonging to Baroness Thyssen-Bornemizsa.

The auction of 341 lots realized more than $97.5 million, with 77 percent of items sold by lot and 81 percent sold by value. 

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Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis Ruby Jewels Among Highlights of Christie’s Geneva Auction

Van Cleef & Arpels ruby and diamond ear pendants and a matching ring from the property of Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis will be one of the signature items at Christie’s Geneva Magnificent Jewels sale on May 13. 

The jewels were presented as a wedding gift by Aristotle Onassis in 1968. Its estimate is $250,000 – $350,000.

A piece with even more historical significance and a higher price tag is the Maria Christina Royal Devant-de-Corsage brooch. Another item that was presented as a wedding gift in November 1879 from King Alfonso XII of Spain to his wife, the Archduchess Maria Christina of Austria, soon to be Queen Consort and then Queen Regent of Spain. The brooch, currently in the collection of Baroness Thyssen-Bornemizsa, is expected to fetch $1.5 to $2 million, according to the auction house.

Maria Christina wearing the Royal Devant-de-Corsage brooch

While these two items have historical significance, they are by no means the most expensive of the auction of 351 jewels and gems that is expected to achieve more than $80 million.

The sale includes a number of statement diamonds and gems led by a 55.52-carat pear shaped D-color, Flawless diamond that has an estimate of $8.5 million to $10.5 million (pictured above); a 5.18-carat rectangular-cut Fancy Vivid Pink diamond (estimate $9.5 million – $12.5 million) (pictured below); and a 21.75-carat Ashoka-cut D-color Flawless diamond ring (estimate: $2.8 million – $3.5 million).

Gemstone highlights include “The Pride of Burma,” a 6.25-carat cushion shaped Burmese ruby and diamond ring (estimate: $1.8 million – $2.5 million), a pair of antique emerald Indian bangles (estimate: $1.5 million – $2 million) (both pictured below), and a 35.09-carat, cushion shaped Kashmir sapphire (estimate: $3 million to $4.2 million).

Another highlight includes a large single-strand natural saltwater pearl necklace with an estimate of $2.5 million to $3.5 million (pictured below).

Among signature jewels is an early example of JAR’s work: a pair of tourmaline and agate camellia brooches, circa 1985 with an estimate of $140,000 – $170,000 (pictured below).

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Lauren Bacall Auction to Include Jewelry by Schlumberger, Elizabeth Gage, Tiffany, Chanel and Cartier

Lauren Bacall wearing two 18k yellow gold ropework bracelets
 on the same wrist, designed by Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. Photo credit: NBC/NBC via Getty Images

Lauren Bacall is known for her beauty, her distinctive voice, her high-profile marriage to actor Humphrey Bogart and her impeccable taste. She was less known for her jewelry collection.

Two 18k yellow gold ropework bracelets by Jean Schlumberger with pre-sale estimates of $5,000 - $7,000 and $6,000 - $9,000. The actress was frequently pictured wearing the bracelets together (see top photo), layered on the same wrist. 

However, more than 30 items of the late actress’s jewelry will be part of the extensive 700-lot auction of the “Lauren Bacall Collection,” being offered by Bonhams New York on March 31 and April 1. It will include pieces by Chanel, Cartier, Tiffany, as well as her personal favorite, French jewelry designer Jean Schlumberger (1907-1987).

“Her jewelry was unique in that it reflected her personal taste and the fact she was very sentimental,” Susan Abeles, Bonhams’ head of Jewelry in the United States, said in a recent interview. “The pieces offered are timeless, understated and classic in design and represent the sophistication and glamour of a true Hollywood legend.”

Lauren Bacall wears Elizabeth Gage Camel Brooch while attending the Juvenile Diabetes Foundation Promise Ball Benefit Gala on
November 10, 1990, at Waldorf Astoria Hotel in New York. Photo credit: Ron Galella, Ltd.

Abeles, who has been spending a great deal of time researching the life of Lauren Bacall to prepare for the auction, said the actress “didn’t have a tremendous amount of jewelry.” But the collection of rings, bracelets, brooches and earrings had personal significance.

The Elizabeth Gage Mogul-inspired Camel Brooch is made of 18k yellow gold enamel, cultured pearl, and rose diamond. It has a pre-sale estimate of $5,000 - $7,000.

For example, Abeles showed me a Tiffany & Co. gold necklace with dangling gold hearts. Each heart has a letter that spells out the phrase, “To my own beautiful star from my proud director Ron.” Abeles said that she believes the necklace was a gift from Ron Field, who directed Bacall in the Broadway play, “Applause.” Both Bacall and Field won Tony awards for their parts in the play.

Tiffany & Co. 18k yellow gold necklace necklace, each dangling heart has a letter that spells out the phrase, “To my own beautiful star from my proud director Ron.” It is believed that the necklace was a gift from Ron Field, who directed Bacall in the Broadway play, “Applause.” Both won Tony awards. It is shown with a gold pocket watch.

Although it isn’t documented Abeles is certain that Bacall and Schlumberger were friends. Bacall purchased many of her most prized Schlumberger pieces in Paris, where the designer lived and worked.

“I do like that she had a relationship with the designer,” Abeles said. “She had a great thirst for knowledge.”

A sampling of the Schlumberger pieces that are up for auction at Bonhams.

Standout Schlumberger pieces from the collection (all pictured above) include an 18k yellow gold and blue enamel bangle bracelet (estimate $20,000 - $30,000); an 18k yellow gold, diamond, amethyst and turquoise ring designed by Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co., (estimate $8,000 - $12,000); and a pair of amethyst, sapphire and emerald ear clips, mounted by Schlumberger (estimate $6,700 - $8,500).

Perhaps Bacall's most icon jewelry pieces are two 18k yellow gold ropework bracelets, (estimate $5,000 - $7,000 and $6,000 - $9,000). The actress was frequently pictured wearing the bracelets together, layered on the same wrist (top two photos).

Bacall also had personal relationships with other jewelers. One auction highlight is a Mogul-inspired, 18k yellow gold, enamel, cultured pearl, and rose diamond camel brooch by the British jeweler, Elizabeth Gage, (estimate $5,000 - $7,000). The brooch is accompanied by the original drawing and correspondence from the jeweler, which reveals collaboration and friendship between the two.

“Bacall’s style was unmistakably her own,” Abeles said. “Her jewelry collection represents a woman who knew her own style—one who wore the jewelry rather than the jewelry wearing her. Pieces that might have overshadowed another woman perfectly complemented her beauty.”

Another highlights of the sale is a pair of diamond and grey South Sea cultured pearl ear pendants by Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co (estimate $4,600 - $6,700). 

Lauren Bacall

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Colorless Diamonds and Celebrated Collections Lead Sotheby’s Jewelry Sales

A platinum-topped gold and diamond necklace presented to Helen Hay on the occasion of her marriage to Payne Whitney in 1902 was the top lot at Sotheby’s Magnificent Jewels sale. 

The necklace (pictured above) features four diamonds ranging from F to H color, and weighing 27.48, 15.53, 13.08 and 8.91 carats respectively, the necklace sold for nearly $3.2 million. The marriage of Hay and Whitney was a society event that made headlines across the United States. All seven jewels from the estate of Helen Hay Whitney were sold for $4.8 million. 

In addition to the Helen Hay Whitney estate, collection from Estée Lauder, Evelyn H. Lauder and Grand Duchess Vladimir of Russia were among the most sought after jewels from bidders, which included a world record price for a Cartier “Tutti Frutti” bracelet

Jewels from the collections of Estée Lauder and Mrs. Evelyn H. Lauder together achieved $3.9 million, with more than 80 percent of the pieces on offer fetching prices above their high estimates.

Thirty-two jewels from the collection of Evelyn H. Lauder—sold to benefit The Breast Cancer Research Foundation—were led by a “Tutti Frutti” bracelet by Cartier, circa 1928 (pictured above), that sold for more than $2.1 million (more than double its high estimate), marking a new world auction record for any Tutti Frutti bracelet by Cartier.

Ten pieces from the Estée Lauder collection sold to benefit the Alzheimer’s Drug Discovery Foundation were led by a pair of fancy brown-yellow diamond and diamond earclips by Van Cleef & Arpels that fetched $233,000.

A pair of platinum, emerald and diamond pendant-earclips (pictured above) that originally belonged to the legendary collection of Grand Duchess Vladimir of Russia sold for more than $1 million. After being smuggled out of Russia by an English friend of the Duchess following the abdication of the Tsar in 1917, the emeralds descended to the Duchess’s daughter and granddaughter, and were acquired at auction at Sotheby’s Geneva in 1987 for Princess Gloria von Thurn und Taxis, the auction house said. 

From the collection of Marlene Dietrich—the legendary actress, singer and cabaret star—a 14k tri-color gold and lapis lazuli bracelet, Cartier circa 1940, sold for $179,000, nearly six times above its high estimate. The bracelet was a gift from longtime friend Erich Maria Remarque, author of “All Quiet on the Western Front.”

Two platinum and diamond rings were among the top four lots of the auction, showing that despite the trend toward colored diamonds, statement colorless diamonds can still bring in world-class prices. 

The first featured a 25.44-carat emerald-cut diamond of D color, VVS1 clarity and potentially Internally Flawless. It sold for $2.96 million, or $116,548 per carat (pictured above).

The second featured a 47.48- carat, round brilliant-cut diamond of K color, VVS1 clarity that sold for $1.8 million. 

Other highlights of the auction were:

* A platinum and diamond ring centered by a 3.02 emerald-cut fancy grayish blue diamond with VVS2 clarity, circa 1930, sold for $1.4 million, or $478,476 per carat, well above its high estimate.

* A platinum, fancy intense purplish pink diamond and diamond ring, 3.07 carats, SI2 clarity, sold for $1.2 million ($392,508 per carat).

* Platinum and diamond earclips by Harry Winston, 10.20 carats, G color, VVS2 clarity and 9.53 carats, G color,VS1 clarity, sold for $1.08 million ($54,992 per carat).

* Egyptian-revival platinum, diamond and colored stone bracelet, LaCloche Frères, Paris, sold for $1.5 million. 

The December 9 auction achieved more than $44.1 million in sales, with 75.8 percent sold by lot and 81.1 percent sold by value. It raised Sotheby’s worldwide jewelry sales in 2014 to $597.5 million, already surpassing the record $529.3 million the company achieved in 2013 in this category. This is without including Sotheby’s London jewelry sale held Thursday. The auction house estimates that sales for 2014 will exceed $600 million.

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Christie’s Magnificent Jewels Sale Fetches $66.6 Million

89.23-carat, pear-shaped D-color VVS1 diamond sold for nearly $11.1 million.

Christie’s New York ended the auction's house's fine jewelry sale season in the Americas with its Magnificent Jewels sale Wednesday that fetched more than $66.6 million (including premiums), producing a final tally in 2014 of approximately $188 million for the Americas. Worldwide jewelry sales amounted to about $740 million, although a complete sales report will be released by the auction house in January 2015.

The top lot of the New York sale was an 89.23-carat, pear-shaped D-color VVS1 diamond (top photo) that sold for nearly $11.1 million (including premium). The diamond, mounted in a platinum setting, sold at $124,000 per carat. 

Other sales of note included a pair of pear-shaped fancy light yellow diamond ear pendants of 52.88 and 51.46 carats (pictured above) that sold for more than $5.4 million, double its presale estimate; and a 5.25-carat Burmese ruby ring by Harry Winston that fetched $1.65 million, more than triple its low estimate.

Other highlights of the sale include the following:

* A colored diamond suite of 593.61 carats, by Jahan that sold for $4.6 million (the necklace is pictured above).

A 21.30-carat, oval-cut fancy light pink Golconda diamond that sold for $4.25 million, or $200,000 per carat.

* A 32.32-carat, oval-cut D-color VVS1 Potentially Internally Flawless diamond by Bulgari sold for more than $4 million, or $126,000 per carat.

* A 32.72-carat, rectangular-cut D-color VS1 diamond sold for $2.4 million, or $74,000 per carat.

* A 1.42-carat, oval-cut fancy red VS2 diamond sold for $2.16 million or more than $1.5 million per carat.

* A 14.28-carat, marquise-cut fancy brownish pink Internally Flawless diamond sold for more than $2 million, or $143,000 per carat.

* A 5.70-carat, rectangular-cut fancy blue VS1 diamond sold for more than $2 million, or $360,000 per carat.

* A single-strand natural pearl and diamond necklace measuring from 13.10 to 8.00 mm sold for $1.8 million.

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