Watchmaker F.P. Journe And Jeweler Martin Katz Partner On ‘Elegant’ Electromechanical Timepiece

Luxury independent watchmaker, F.P. Journe, has unveiled the “élégante” ladies watch, which the company says is the “only electromechanical movement conceived and created for the luxury market.”

An electromechanical movement, like the name suggests, combines electrical and mechanical processes and procedures.

It is also the first ladies watch created by the luxury watchmaker, known for its innovation and inventiveness. In this case, the main feature of this timepiece is a mechanical motion detector visible on the dial at 5 o’clock. When the watch is not worn, it stops after about 30 minutes and goes into standby mode. The microprocessor continues to keep time while the mechanical parts—gears, rotors and hands—stop moving in order to save energy.

When the élégante is worn again, it automatically sets itself to the correct time, taking the shortest path—either clockwise or counter clockwise—again for energy conservation. With this system the electronic components are projected to last 10 years if worn and up to 18 years in standby mode.

All the mechanical elements were manufactured by F.P. Journe. The electronic components were developed by a Swiss engineer and were made in Switzerland, with a microprocessor specifically created for the watch.

The watch is the result of eight years of research, particularly the electromechanical caliber 1210 with its patented two-rotor motor, according to the watch brand.

For the aesthetic portion of the watch, Mr. Journe consulted with luxury jeweler, Martin Katz, known for his diamond jewelry designs. Katz said he has been a long time admirer and client of Mr. Journe.

“Our style aesthetic and quality of work are perfectly aligned, so to share in the design process of the women’s watch collection for a brand I truly respect was an exciting project for me,” Katz said.

The élégante comes with a luminescent dial with a subdial at 6 o’clock. The patented flat “tourtise” case design is available in three colors, each using a different material, and seven colored rubber straps. For example, the titanium version is available in all colors. The 18k red gold version comes with a chocolate strap; and the platinum PT 950 version with a dark blue strap. 

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Valentine’s Day: 10 Lovely Ladies’ Watches with Muscle

The Margot by Christophe Claret

Women deserve timepieces that are not only beautiful and stylish but also have the power and complexity of men’s watches. In other words they should have watches with robust movements and advanced complications. 

During the past few years watch companies have been listening to women who want their watches to be more than just pretty face. 

Keeping this in mind I curated 10 watches in which the majority combine beauty with muscle.

The Margot watch from independent watchmaker Christophe Claret  (top picture) creatively answers the timeless French question, “He loves me... he loves me not.” The center of the dial has a daisy. At each press of a pusher at 2 o’clock one or two petals of the flower disappear. At the same time a “sentiment” is displayed on the dial at 5 o’clock, along with a chime: un peu (a little), beaucoup (a lot), passionnément (passionately), à la folie (madly) and pas du tout (not at all). Both the petals and expressions are presented randomly. Pressing the reset pusher at 4 o’clock makes all petals reappear around the pistil. The blue mother-of-pearl outer dial has pear-shaped diamonds at 3 o’clock, 6 o’clock and 9 o’clock. The display back reveals the EMT17 automatic rotor, a carved, flower-shaped carrousel of colors, with a central cabochon concealing the rotor’s ball bearings.

The Breguet Reine de Naples is a highly complicated watch in a bejeweled oval-shaped case. The 18k white gold bezel and case are set with 131 baguette diamonds. The flange is set with 73 brilliant-cut diamonds and the crown is set with a briolette diamond. Dial in 18k gold enhanced with 147 brilliant-cut diamonds. Complication showing the day and night in the upper half, with the sun represented by the Breguet balance-wheel and a hand-engraved titanium moon, together rotating in 24 hours. The watch is powered by Breguet automatic movement.

The Chopard Happy Sport Tourbillon Joaillerie houses a Chopard L.U.C 02.16-L tourbillon movement. Available in 18k white or rose gold, the diamonds represent snow that entirely carpets the dial. The tourbillon bridge is gem-set and the bezel is embellished with 36 trapeze-cut diamonds. The crown features baguette-cut diamonds and a briolette-cut diamond. Seven diamonds on the tourbillon spin between two sapphire crystals. 

Bulgari Lucea Black is housed in an 18k pink gold case and crown and cabochon-cut pink stone set with a diamond. Powered by the caliber B77 automatic movement with the date window at 3 o’clock. Black dial with sunburst guilloché motif, pink gold-plated hands, hour-markers and Roman numerals.

Baume & Mercier Promesse is a watch practically created for Valentine's Day. Polished and satin-finished steel, this 34 mm watch is powered by a Swiss-made automatic caliber. The silver-colored “drapé guilloché” dial is accented by gilt Roman numerals and diamond-set indexes.

The sale of the Frédérique Constant Ladies Automatic World Heart Federation supports the World Heart Federation’s “Hearts of Children” campaign. The 34mm bi-color stainless steel and plated rose gold case has a bezel set with 48 diamonds. The dial has the WHF logo in the center. It is powered by the FC-303 caliber, automatic movement decorated with the WHF logo and “Hearts of Children” on engraved sunray bridges.

As the name suggests, Girard-Perregaux Cat's Eye Anniversary, celebrates the collection’s 10-year anniversary with a dial blanketed in metallic rays. The dial features a gray-tinted white mother-of-pearl backdrop with 73 sapphires at tips of the rays ranging from bright to pastel pink. The bezel of the iconic oblong case is adorned with 62 brilliant-cut diamonds. It is powered by the GP03300 automatic movement.

Harry Winston Avenue Classic Diamond Drops is set with 29 brilliant-cut diamonds. The white gold case of this watch serves as a frame to showcase the composition of the dial, like a window gazing out towards the sky. The textured base of the dial is shown in shades of grays, creating a contrast to the sparkle of the diamonds. A snow-setting featuring 190 brilliant-cut gems cascades down the dial, providing movement and emotion.

Carl F. Bucherer Pathos Diva stainless steel and 18k rose gold watch is powered by the caliber CFB 1963 automatic movement.

Tissot T-LADY T072 features a rose-gold, PVD case, brown MOP dial surrounded by mother-of-pearl and a two-tone bracelet. It is powered by the Powermatic 80 automatic movement. 

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Montblanc Launches Bohème Watch Collection with Elegant, Elaborate Performance in Shanghai

Celebrities from around the world in attendance with Jérôme Lambert, Montblanc International CEO (fourth from left) at the Bohème ladies watch collection launch.

Luxury brand Montblanc chose Shanghai for the global introduction of its new Bohème ladies watch collection with a star-studded affair on August 28 at the Children’s Art Theatre attended by several hundred invited guests and media. 

In doing so the luxury brand showed to the world that the traditionally masculine brand is looking to the ladies market for growth, that it values its long relationship with China, and that it is able to create a buzz in one of the largest and fastest growing markets in the world.

Montblanc Bohème Perpetual Calendar Jewellery

The event itself was a large-scale production held in a circular theater setting with colorful performances that could rival Las Vegas in terms of spectacle with musicians, dancers and models rising up from beneath the floor of the theater in various places. Several celebrities from around the world strolled the red carpet outside the theater and participated in the performance’s grand finale. The guests of honor were Taiwanese-born actress and Montblanc Brand Ambassador Kwai Lun Mei and Australian actor Chris Hemsworth, a designated friend of the brand. Prior to the performance, watch making demonstrations were held in the lobby of the theater. 

The performance during the August 28 unveiling of the Bohème ladies watch line at the Children’s Art Theatre in Shanghai, China.

Jérôme Lambert, Montblanc International CEO, said the luxury brand’s relationship with China goes back to 1992 and has grown to become one of its top three markets. The company now has 105 points of sale, including 47 mono-brand boutiques. Needless to say the country is very important to the luxury brand.

Colorful Italian Leather Straps for Bohème Watches created by Montblanc’s leather manufacturing operation in Florence, Italy. In addition to traditional styles, the straps are available in yellow, orange, and two shades of blue. 

Then there are the female shoppers, whose appetite in China (and in much of the world) for luxury goods continues to grow. This is the where Montblanc, a traditionally masculine luxury brand, is focusing its efforts. 

Montblanc ambassador and actress Gwei Lun-Mei was the
guest of honor at the global launch of the Bohème watch collection.

“More than 35 percent of our clientele of Montblanc (worldwide) are ladies, but they are buying a lot for their husbands or boyfriends,” said Jérôme Lambert, Montblanc International CEO. “We do believe there is an opportunity to bring them along to the maison…. We know ladies are very determined when it comes to luxury goods these days in China. It’s a natural extension of the market.”

Models wear Bohème watches on stage during the Bohème global launch event at the Children’s Art Theatre in Shanghai, China

Lambert added that products for women now account for 20 percent of Montblanc’s inventory.

Bohème Date Automatic Jewellery

The Bohème ladies watch collection feature both a feminine exterior with precious gems and metals while inside it is powered by serious movements and complications. It is an extension of a feminine writing instruments collection under the same name. The lead item in this collection is the “Bohème Perpetual Calendar Jewellery.”

The Montblanc name and star logo clearly visible on the exterior of the Children’s Art Theatre.

The 36mm watch features a silver guilloché dial that shows the month and leap year cycle at 12 o’clock, date at 3 o’clock, moon phases at 6 o’clock and day of the week at 9 o’clock. The bezel of the red-gold case is adorned with 60 diamonds and the winding crown is topped with a diamond in the shape of the Montblanc star emblem. 

Actor Chris Hemsworth, a friend of the Montblanc brand, attends the launch of the Bohème collection.

The watch is powered by the automatic caliber MB 29.15, which was introduced at Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) in January for the Montblanc Meisterstück Heritage Perpetual Calendar men’s watch, which distinguished itself as perhaps the first watch with a perpetual calendar and a moon phase for 10,000 euros. The perpetual calendar requires no manual adjustment until the year 2100. However, if a correction is needed, tiny controls hidden inside the watch allow for fast and easy adjustments.

Musicians perform at the global launch of the Bohème watch collection.

The Bohème Date Automatic features several styles of diamonds, gold and stainless steel with mother-of-pearl, diamond pavé or guilloche dial finishes. The 30mm watch features an elongated date display at 6 o’clock. The shape serves as the signature style of the Bohème collection.

Bohème was traditionally a collection of feminine writing instruments. It's fitting that new writing instruments would accompany the introduction of the Bohème watch collection.

Floral Arabic numerals with “filet sauté” minute scale, the blued or red gold-plated leaf-shaped hour-and minute-hand and the central second hand extended with the Montblanc star emblem. It is powered by a MB 24.14 automatic movement. The bezel of the jewelry version of the watch can be adorned with 62 diamonds and a dial topped with 8 diamonds. 

Celebrity blogger Chiara Ferragni

Lambert, who has led Montblanc for a little over a year has been credited with finding synergies between the brand’s various manufacturing facilities. In this case, he used Montblanc’s leather manufacturing operation in Florence, Italy, to create colorful watch straps for the Bohème collection, thus giving buyers more options when selecting watches. In addition to traditional styles, the wristbands are available in yellow, orange, and two shades of blue. 

Bohème red gold and silver jewelry collection to accompany the new watch collection.

“We believe that cross fertilization, in this case leather and watches, combines itself quite nicely,” Lambert said. “It’s a good way for us to sustain a better approach to a lifestyle.”

Jérôme Lambert, Montblanc International CEO

The Bohème collection also includes complementary jewelry and writing instruments. 

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Baume & Mercier Reveals ‘Promesse’ Ladies Watch Collection in New York

Actress Jessica Pare introduces the Promesse collection while Alain Zimmerman, Baume & Mercier’s CEO, and Rudy Chavez, Baume & Mercier’s North American president, look on. Behind them are the padlocks where guests were able to make a “promise” to themselves. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

Baume & Mercier unveiled its first new ladies watch collection in nearly 10 years during an event in New York attended by Swiss watch brand’s top officials along with several celebrities, including actress Jessica Pare of Mad Men.

Baume & Mercier Promesse 10157 in stainless steel with a drapé guilloché dial.

The company unveiled the “Promesse” timepiece collection during the June 18 event at Gotham Hall, also attended by Star Jones and Supermodel Emme. The line consist of 14 pieces in two sizes, 30 and 34mm, and are available in a Swiss-made quartz or automatic movement that can be viewed through a transparent caseback. The collection is inspired by the unconventional watches the company created for ladies in the 1970s.

The automatic movement.

The watches combine different decorative and functional elements. All of the pieces employ an oval bezel that surround a round dial, the signature nod to one of its1970 models. Most of the models use a drapé (draped) guilloché design for its dials while others employ colorful mother-of-pearl. All of the dials also use Roman numerals at the 12, 3, 6 and 9 o’clock positions. Most use diamond markers on the remaining indices. Diamonds, mother-of-pearl, or red gold (creating a two-tone effect) are also used to further enhance the bezels. The watch straps are available in stainless steel, a two-tone combination (stainless steel and plated red gold), white satin, or black alligator.

Baume & Mercier Promesse 10166 with black mother-of-pearl black dial with a “drapé guilloché” and 61 diamonds.

There are enough subtle variations in its 14 models to create several options for women who purchase this watch. The Promesse (French for Promise ) is being marketed to self-purchasing women, inspiring them “to hold a promise close to their heart while celebrating their unique individuality through their own timepiece.” This notion was reinforced at a June 18 event in New York marking the US release of the timepieces. Guests were given a padlock and asked to inscribe their own personal promise before locking it to a metal stage prop modeled after the romantic bridges in Paris.

Baume & Mercier Promesse-10163 combines steel and red gold-capped steel with a silver-colored “drapé guilloché dial.

In addition to the celebrities, Baume & Mercier’s global CEO, Alain Zimmerman and North American president, Rudy Chavez were in attendance. Pare wore the Promesse 10160, an oval, mother of pearl, steel bracelet watch with 30 diamonds set on the bezel (pictured below).

The watches will be available in September at select retailers nationwide and online, starting at $1,900.

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From the Artistic to the Mechanical, Ladies Watches at SIHH 2014

Ballon Bleu De Cartier Floral-Marquetry Parrot Watch

After a detour into mechanical movements and masculine looks last year, the 16 luxury brands at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) for 2014 returned largely to watches for ladies that highlight artistry and jewelry. That’s not to say there aren’t many mechanical timepieces on offer at this year’s show. What there is, however, is more variety than in previous years. The new releases this year give women have a choice between pure beauty, high-end mechanics or both.

Ballon Bleu De Cartier Floral-Marquetry Parrot Watch
This year, Cartier has taken up what it says is a new craft in watchmaking: floral marquetry, along with jewelry, to create a colorful parrot on the dial of this watch with a blue and the orangey-yellow plumage, a deep black of the beak, an emerald green eye and sparkling white diamonds in the background of the dial and on the crown on the 18k white and pink gold watch.

To create this dial (top image), flower petals were gathered and colored. Then each petal was stuck onto a thin piece of wood and cut into the desired shape using a marquetry saw. The material contrasts with the shine of the onyx beak and emerald eye. The grey and black feathers surrounding the eye were created with miniature painting.

The 42mm watch is powered by the Cartier Caliber 049. It is available in a limited edition of 20 pieces.

Parmigiani: The Tonda Pomellato
This watch collection is a partnership between Swiss luxury watch brand Parmigiani and Italian luxury jewelry brand Pomellato. Three of the four watches in this line are based on Pomellato’s “Arabesque” collection, characterized by an openwork lace-like design in rose gold, which gives way to transparent elements with colored gems.

The Arabesque style of the Pomellato ring that provided the inspiration of the watch design.

The Arabesque pattern was reproduced using two distinct treatments. First, the dial received an opaline surface treatment. Then the arabesque pattern is superimpose through a silkscreen printed transfer which covers the opaline. A second sand-blasting treatment is then applied, which adheres to all the surfaces not covered by the transfer. The result is the pattern, which has the appearance of a shadow, that seems to be flush with the dial. The watch is powered by the automatic Caliber PF701. The 39mm 18k rose gold case set with 28 round diamonds along the bezel.

Piaget Rose Passion
This is a classic “secret watch” in 18k white gold set with a total of 707 brilliant-cut diamonds and one pink sapphire. The timepiece comes with a white satin strap. The petite dial of the watch can be hidden within the rose-shaped bejeweled watch case.

Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Fabuleux Ornements – Ottoman architecture
This piece is part of a four-watch collection that showcases several of the brand’s skeletonization and engraving skills and reflects a different culture and moment in history. For this piece Ottoman architecture was the inspiration. A pink-gold lattice motif is perched on a mother-of-pearl base. The gold grid-work in scrolling patterns is studded with half-pearl beads.

However, this watch is more than just an elaborately sculptured pretty face. It is powered by the in-house manufactured and engraved Caliber 1003SQ. The hand-wound movement with 117 components is exceptionally petite, just 21.1mm in diameter and 1.64mm thick.

Richard Mille Tourbillon Natalie Portman
This timepiece is created in partnership with Oscar award-winning actress Natalie Portman, who is also a worldwide partner of the brand. The aesthetic focus of this watch is a diamond-encrusted stylized spider that appears trapped in a tonneau-shaped, diamond-covered case. The abdomen of the spider supports the bridges of the tourbillon (made of grade 5 titanium), and its legs support the two winding barrels. The RM19-01 manual winding tourbillon caliber is assembled around a black rhodium-plated, 18k white gold black sapphire set baseplate, a first for Richard Mille. It is available in a limited edition of 20 pieces. It will be worn by the actress at events worldwide.

Ralph Lauren Stirrup
The stirrup name refers to the shape of the case. This year the designer came up with two new medium-sized editions of the watch line—in steel and the one pictured in 18k gold with the case and chain-link bracelet covered in more than 1,900 diamonds in 20 different sizes. It is powered by the caliber RL057 quartz movement.

Lady Arpels Zodiac Taurus Extraordinary Dial
This is one of a collection of 12 watches that replicate the Western Zodiac signs created by Van Cleef & Arpels. The colorful dial depicts a white gold and diamond pavé Taurus the Bull on top of translucent enamel in the shape of leaves with blue flowers made of lapis lazuli with white-gold stars with a small diamond in the center of each. The 38mm white gold case has a bezel set with round diamonds. It has a hand-wound mechanical movement and is available in a limited edition of 22 pieces.

Ballon Blanc de Cartier
This jewelry watch has a mother-of-pearl flinqué (hand-engraved) dial and blue-steel, sword-shaped hands. A single round diamond at 4 o’clock stands out among other smaller round diamonds that encircle the bezel. The 24 mm 18k pink gold case is finished with a bracelet consisting of five rows of smooth 18k pink gold beads.

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Glashütte Original Uses $35 Million Mansion To Introduce Ladies Watch Collection

The Waterfall Mansion in New York was the setting for the Glashütte Original unveiling of the Pavonina Collection. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

German watch manufacturer Glashütte Original presented its Pavonina Collection of ladies watches during a 1920’s theme party at the Waterfall Mansion in New York City.

Cushion-shaped 18k red gold case and white mother-of-pearl dial and guilloche finished. The settings and date window enhanced with red gold; rhodium and red gold plated feuille hands. 18k red gold metal bracelet design mirrors the cushion shape of the case.

A total of 20 new models of the watch line were presented in an exhibit setting on the second and third floors of the townhouse mansion, which has a listing price of $35 million. The multi-story waterfall, the signature highlight of the building on New York’s Upper East Side, was backlit in the Pavonina color of “royal purple” with the design theme of petals containing the names of the guests in attendance.

The Waterfall Mansion signature waterfall backlit with the "Royal Purple" and petal display of the Pavonina Collection. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

Dieter Pachner, Glashütte Original Global VP of Sales, explained that the cushion-shaped case design of the watches is the same design of popular ladies watches in the 1920s. The period is important for women as time of liberation and independence from the constraints of society, he said. The case comes in stainless steel, 18k red gold, and in a stainless steel and red gold combination.

Cushion-shaped stainless steel case with a dial made of galvanized ruthenium with guilloche finish; set with 12 diamonds. Settings and date window enhanced with red gold; rhodium and white gold plated feuille hands. Anthracite satin strap attached to lugs set with 42 diamonds.

As part of the 1920s theme of the event, several rooms contained portraits of women pioneers from the 20th Century and furnishings represented the period. One case contained vintage Glashütte Original ladies watches.

One of the Glashütte Original's 1920s-era watches on display. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

The dials for the quartz-powered watches were created in house in a range of designs that include mother of pearl and diamond motifs. The stainless steel models are offered with dials in either galvanized silver or ruthenium (a platinum group metal); with cabochon or diamond indexes as hour markers. bi-color models are available in mother of pearl or galvanized ruthenium dials. There are other options.

18k red gold case, galvanized black dial with guilloche finish and 12 diamonds as hour markers. Settings and date window enhanced with red gold; rhodium and red gold plated feuille hands. Fine black Louisiana alligator bracelet attached to flexible lugs set with 42 diamonds.

The collection also includes several choices of metal bracelets and colorful satin straps along with a “quick-change” pin that makes it easy to replace straps and bracelets. The metal bracelets are available in stainless steel, red gold and bi-color versions—the latter with alternating stainless steel and red gold links. The satin straps are offered in petrol green, violet or rich anthracite, or high-gloss patent leather in mocca brown and violet.

A couple of the new watches on display. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

 
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Cushion-shaped 18k red gold case and white enamel dial set with 98 diamonds. The settings and date window are enhanced with red gold; rhodium and red gold plated feuille hands. Violet satin strap nattached to lug decorated with 21 diamonds.