25-Carat Ruby Ring By Cartier Fetches World Auction Record $30.4 Million

Additional reporting by Gretchen Friedrich, Jewelry News Network social media manager

The 25.59-carat “Sunrise Ruby” by Cartier smashes estimates to fetch $30.38 million, a world record for a price of a ruby at auction. It was the surprising top lot Sotheby’s Geneva Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels Sale held Tuesday at the Hôtel Beau-Rivage. 

Known as the “Sunrise Ruby,” it’s described as a “unique treasure of nature” by the Swiss Gemmological Institute. The ruby didn’t receive any heat treatment and the color is described by that famous auction moniker for exceptional rubies, “pigeon’s blood” red: the rarest and most sought-after of hues. 

The ruby was the high point in a jewelry auction that saw many highs, taking in approximately $134 million, with 93.5 percent of the 484 lots sold. The top ten results were a mix of colored gems and diamonds along with white diamonds, natural pearls and three other Cartier jewels. 

Going into the auction, the top lot was expected to be the “Historic Pink,”  (pictured above) an 8.72-carat Fancy Vivid Pink diamond that the auction house described as “extremely rare and highly important.” This turned out to be the second highest lot of the sale, fetching $16 million, within its estimate. The jewel is believed to have been part of the collection of Princess Mathilde, the niece of Napoleon Bonaparte. The stone, which has VS2 clarity, is also distinguished by its classic non-modified cushion cut, unusual in a pink diamond, Sotheby’s said. 

A custom-made diamond necklace of more than 190 carats by Cartier (pictured above) sold for $7.25 million. The piece was designed as a cascade of diamonds, the front accented with a floral motif and suspending a fringe of nine pear-shaped stones.

Despite an auction season that has had its share of high and lows, one category of jewelry that continues to see consistently higher prices are natural pearls. This auction didn’t disappoint as three pearl jewels were among the top 10 lots.

The first was a natural pearl and diamond necklace that has at least least some Cartier lineage (signed clasp and case stamp) that sold for $7 million (pictured above), well above its high estimate. It is composed of two graduated strands of 78 natural pearls on a clasp set with a marquise-shaped diamond weighing 4.39 carats.

In addition, a single strand necklace composed of a graduated row of natural pearls measuring from 7.95 to 12.40mm, on a barrel clasp set with brilliant-cut diamonds sold for $3.8 million, totally obliterating its high estimate of approximately $527,000.

The other Cartier pieces that sparkled at the auction were a brooch set with a 30.23-carat Kashmir sapphire that sold for $6.1 million; and sapphire and diamond earrings of the same design made with two Burmese Mogok sapphires of 15.77 and 16.90 carats. This sold for $3.43 million, well above its high estimate.

The other top lots are as follows:

* A 32-carat colorless diamond ring sold for more than $4 million. It was one of two colorless diamonds among the top 10 lots.

* The other was a pair of earrings each suspending a cushion-shaped diamond weighing 10.02 and 10.03 carats, from a line of single-cut diamonds, which sold for $3.2 million.

* Rounding out the top 10 was a natural pearl and diamond ear clips that sold for $3.2 million.

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Graff to Unveil Secret Watch at Baselworld 2015

Graff Diamonds will mark its second year at Baselworld by unveiling an elaborate brooch made with layers of sapphire and diamond beads that reveal a petite watch embellished with more diamonds and sapphires.

It is called the Sapphire and Diamond Beaded Tassel Secret Watch.

The brooch is a complex piece with multiple layers of beaded tassels that can be worn three ways: as a single piece, as individual brooches, or as a single brooch with a tassel. It uses more than 330 carats of sapphires and 40 carats of diamonds and took “many” months to make, the company said. One of the tassel groupings conceals a tiny pavé diamond watch face suspended from a platinum chain.

The jewelry watch was designed and crafted at Graff’s London headquarters. The technique used to create a cascading beaded tassel required matching sapphire beads in order to create a consistent three dimensional element no matter how the jewel is worn.

“For me, gemstone beads embody fluidity and movement so I created a design for a piece with row upon row of draped sapphires and diamonds, which lead the eye towards a dynamic three dimensional tassel,” said Anne-Eva Geffroy, Graff Diamonds design director. “The inclusion of a secret watch, delicately suspended from a platinum chain is highly unique, adding a further element of surprise and intrigue.”

Framing the tassel are two ornate brooches with pear shape sapphires at their centers embraced by an arrangement of white diamonds united by five rows of sapphire and diamond beads.

The watch is made in Graff tradition of jewelry timepieces Geffroy said.

“Jeweled and secret timepieces for ladies have formed an important part of our collection for many years and continue to be a popular choice among our clientele globally,” she said.

Baselworld will be held March 19 – 26 in Basel, Switzerland.

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Colorful Louis Comfort Tiffany Antique Jewelry Suite Fetches $161,000 at Bonhams

Photo credit: image courtesy of Bonhams

A rare antique jewelry suite of sapphire, demantoid garnet and enamel attributed to Louis Comfort Tiffany sold for $161,000 (including premium), soaring past its high estimate at Bonhams Fine Jewelry auction in New York.

The suite, created for Tiffany & Co., circa 1920, is led by a pendant centered by an oval, irregularly-domed cabochon sapphire. It sits within a scrolling frame suspending a flexible swag, accented by circular and oval-cut demantoid garnets and sapphires, highlighted by enamel floral sprays and suspended from a chain of floral links. It is completed by a box clasp set with circular-cut sapphires, pendant earrings en suite; chain and pendant earrings.

Photo credit: image courtesy of Bonhams

The top lot of the evening was an 8.45-carat Cartier diamond ring (pictured above). The rectangular step-cut diamond within a pierced and openwork pavé-set diamond surround sold for $293,000. 

Despite being the top lot, the diamond ring must have felt a bit lonely at the sale dominated by rare sapphires, emeralds and other colored gems. As a signed piece, it was among many that were in high demand at the December 8 sale, which realized $4.1 million. 

“More contemporary signed jewels continue to thrive in the auction environment,” said Susan Abeles, VP and director of the Jewelry at Bonhams North America, “The sale was dominated by colorful estate property which was well received by an international audience.”

Other highlights of the sale include:

Photo credit: image courtesy of Bonhams

* A 3.2-carat Kashmir sapphire and diamond ring that fetched $118,750, almost twice the high estimate.

Photo credit: image courtesy of Bonhams

* A sapphire and diamond brooch with a diamond weight of 6.85 carats, which realized $112,500, nine times the high estimate.  

Photo credit: image courtesy of Bonhams

* A Colombian emerald and diamond ring, featuring a large emerald cabochon weighing approximately 50 carats surrounded by diamonds. It achieved $106,250, over 3.5 times the high estimate.

* A late Art Deco ruby and diamond bracelet, circa 1935, with a total diamond weight of 14.00 carats, which sold for $106,250, well past its high estimate.

* Natural button pearl diamond ear studs, each over 10mm, realizing $45,000, close to 6.5 times its high estimate. 

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50-Carat Flawless Diamond Sells for $9.5 Million

50.52-Carat Pear-Shaped Diamond that sold for $9.5 million.
CHRISTIE'S IMAGES LTD. 2012

NEW YORK — Big diamonds sparkled during Christie’s sale of Magnificent Jewels in New York on Tuesday. Leading the way was a pear-shaped D color flawless diamond of 50.52 cts., which sold for $9.5 million, or $188,000 per carat, to a private collector. The stone is mounted in platinum and may be worn suspended from a necklace with a 2.28 carat, circular-cut D-color diamond surmount.

It was one of several major diamond lots sold during the auction of 369 lots held during two sessions Tuesday. The other top sellers were:

CHRISTIE'S IMAGES LTD. 2012

* A pair of pear-shaped fancy yellow and colorless diamond ear pendants of 52.78 and 50.31 cts.(pictured above)  that achieved $4.5 million. The diamonds are surmounted by circular-cut fancy yellow and white diamonds Mounted in yellow and white gold. The pendants may be easily swapped or detached completely, giving the owner three options for how to wear them. Its estimate was $4.5 - $6.5 million. The buyer was listed by Christie’s as Aleks Paul of Essex Global Trading.

CHRISTIE'S IMAGES LTD. 2012

* A 68.35-carat oval-cut fancy intense yellow, internally flawless diamond sold for $3.16 million. The gem with excellent polish and symmetry had an estimate of $2.2 - $3.2 million.

CHRISTIE'S IMAGES LTD. 2012

* A pear-shape fancy light pink SI1 diamond ring sold for of 10.52 cts sold for $2.21 million, or $210,000 per carat; well above its estimate of $1 million to $1.5 million.

* A 28.20-carat square-cut fancy intense yellow VVS1 diamond ring by Van Cleef & Arpels that sold for $902,000.

CHRISTIE'S IMAGES LTD. 2012

* A 10.05-carat pear-shaped diamond on a ring, flanked on either side by a pear-shaped diamond, mounted in platinum took in more than $1.2 million.

* A 12.05-carat pear-shape F color flawless diamond that sold for $842,500.

* An 11.68-carat marquise-cut F color VS1 diamond ring by Harry Winston that sold for $746,500.

All totaled, the auction achieved $50 million and had a sell-through rate of 87 percent by lot and 93 percent by value.

“Private collectors and dealers reacted more than positively to a 369-lot auction that was finely-tuned in terms of prices and selection of gems to current market conditions,” said Rahul Kadakia, Head of Jewelry, Christie’s Americas and Switzerland. “Natural pearls, colorless flawless diamonds, and colored diamonds of high quality once again dominated the day, making for a vibrant atmosphere in the saleroom.”

CHRISTIE'S IMAGES LTD. 2012

Natural pearls again proved to be a dynamic force in the auction market. This was underscored by the sale of a double strand natural pearl necklace for $3.66 million (pictured above). It has 120 large-sized individual pearls, ranging in size from 6.50 mm to 12.25 mm in diameter, and ranging in coloration from white to light cream, with subtle rosé and green overtones and superb luster. It is accented with a 3-carat, D color diamond clasp signed by Cartier. Its estimate was $2.8 – $3.5 million.

During the morning session, a single strand of 83 natural pearls, measuring from approximately 3.15 to 9.75 mm, sold for $158,500, nearly double its high estimate; and an antique diamond and sapphire brooch set with a natural baroque pearl, measuring approximately 15.90 – 16.70 x 20.40 mm, brought in $170,500, nearly tripling its high estimate.

CHRISTIE'S IMAGES LTD. 2012

In addition, a 32.31-carat cushion cut Burmese sapphire ring (pictured above) sold for $986,500, nearly double the high estimate of $500,000.

Bidding was robust throughout the day, gaining strength in the afternoon session, with dealers in the back of Christie's saleroom loudly clamoring for attention, competing with those in the front of the room and many phone and online bidders.

Sharing the auctioneer duties was Kadakia, along with Christie's Asia president, François Curiel, the Christie’s jewelry veteran who moved to Hong Kong recently to head the auction house’s jewelry operation in the booming Asia market.

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50-Carat Diamond to Lead Christie’s Upcoming Auction

Diamond ear pendants, 52.78 cts. and 50.31 cts. (117.04 cts total with surmounts). Estimate: $4.5 million - $6.5 million.

Christie’s first sale of the fall jewelry season will include three diamonds of more than 50 carats each and a rare double strand of large natural pearls.

The two-session sale on October 16 at Christie’s Rockefeller Center saleroom also includes signature jewels, rare gemstones and more statement diamonds among its 372 lots. It is expected to achieve more than $35 million.

The top colorless diamond in Christie’s New York Magnificent Jewels sale is a pear-shaped D-color flawless diamond of 50.52 carats with excellent polish and symmetry. The stone is mounted in platinum and may be worn suspended from a necklace with a 2.28 carat, circular-cut D-color diamond surmount. The estimate is available on request.

Among the colored diamond highlights is an oval-cut fancy intense yellow, internally flawless diamond of 68.35 carats with excellent polish and symmetry. It has an estimate of $2.2 - $3.2 million.

In addition, a pair of diamond ear pendants brings together a pear-shaped fancy yellow diamond of 52.78 carats and a pear-shaped white diamond of 50.31 carats surmounted by circular-cut fancy yellow and white diamonds Mounted in yellow and white gold, the pendants may be easily swapped or detached completely, giving the owner three options for how to wear them. Its estimate is $4.5 - $6.5 million.

The double strand natural pearl necklace is formed of 120 large-sized individual pearlsRanging in size from 6.50 mm to 12.25 mm in diameter, the pearls range in coloration from white to light cream, with subtle rosé and green overtones and superb luster. It is accented with a 3-carat, D color diamond clasp signed by Cartier. Its estimate is $2.8 – $3.5 million. The auction house said it is “one of the finest to come to auction at Christie’s in the last five years.”

The sale will 130 signed jewels by Buccellati, Bulgari, Cartier, Graff, Marina B., Oscar Heyman & Brothers, Tiffany & Co., Van Cleef & Arpels, David Webb, Harry Winston and Raymond Yard.

Among the highlights of iconic design is a “honeycomb” motif ruby and diamond bracelet by Van Cleef & Arpels. Crafted from hexagonal-cut rubies and diamonds, the gems are set using the firm’s trademark “mystery-set” technique which eliminates any visible prongs from the surface of the bracelet. Its estimate is $100,000 - $150,000)

The sale also includes a selection of jewels by Marina B, granddaughter of Sottiro Bulgari. The sale features a number of her designs accompanied by their original renderings, including a ruby and gold “Simona” bangle set with a shield-shaped fancy yellow diamond (estimate: $50,000 - $70,000), a “Georgina” ring featuring an oval-cut ruby of 10.54 carats (estimate: $200,000-300,000) and a pair of diamond, amethyst and pink tourmaline “MBC” ear pendants (estimate: $25,000-35,000).

One-of-a-kind creations by the Indian designer Viren Bhagat are among the most coveted of contemporary jewelry designs on the auction market today. As a special fundraising item within the sale, Christie’s offering a pair of “flower blossom” pearl and diamond ear clips by Bhagat (estimate: $30,000-50,000). The sale will benefit the Salaam Bombay Children’s Fund, a decade-old organization that works with disadvantaged children across India to empower them with opportunities and skills that enable them to make the right choices for their health, education and livelihood.

Others sale highlights include:

* Pear-shaped diamond ring of 10.05 carats, D color, internally flawless. Estimate: $1 million – 1.5 million.

* Pear-shaped fancy light pink diamond ring of 10.52 carats by Galt. Estimate: $900,000 – 1.1 million.

* Pair of pear-shaped diamond ear pendants of 6.94 carats and 6.79 carats. Estimate: $600,000 – $800,000.

* Colombian emerald and diamond ear pendants of 22.12 carats and 21.47 carats by Van Cleef & Arpels. Estimate: $600,000 – 800,000.

* Cushion-cut Burmese sapphire diamond ring of 32.31 carats. Estimate: $350,000 – $500,000.

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