Eastern China Jewelry Event Targets New Luxury Consumers

Hangzhou—the capital city and political, economic and cultural center of Zhejiang province—will host, Treasures Hangzhou, a new jewelry event in Eastern China October 24 to 26 at the Hyatt Regency Hangzhou.

The event will give the province’s jewelry consumers, private collectors and high-end jewelry retailers the opportunity to purchase jewelry, diamonds, gemstones, pearls and jadeite from international jewelry designers and manufacturers. Among these exhibitors are Hini Star Ltd, Golden Dynasty (HK) Ltd, Shenzhen Color And Diamond Jewellery Co Ltd, SYM Jewellery Co Ltd and Houlang Jewellery (Shanghai) Co Ltd.

The show is jointly organized by UBM China, the International Colored Gemstone Association and the Jewelry Jade Industry Association of Zhejiang.

Hangzhou, located about 100 miles southwest of Shanghai, is one of China’s second-tier cities whose consumer market is growing. Like in the rest of China, there are a growing number of high-end consumers in Hangzhou eager to enjoy a better lifestyle. According to the 2010-2011 World Luxury Association survey, Hangzhou ranks first among China’s second-and third-tier cities as having the highest consumption of high-end goods apart from Beijing, Shanghai and Guangzhou. A report released by Goldman Sachs showed that over the next five years, second-and third-tier cities including Hangzhou, Wenzhou and Ningbo, will account for much China’s high-end consumer market.

Nationwide, total consumption of gems and jewelry reached 70 billion Chinese yuan renminbi ($11 billion) in 2010. Of this figure, diamonds account for more than $1.1 billion, making China potentially the world’s largest diamond consumer market and the world’s second largest diamond processing country, according to the World Luxury Association. Jade also accounts for a large part of the total figure.

Treasures Hangzhou will be held concurrently with the “Liang Zhu Bei” Zhejiang Jade Carving Exhibition, also at the Hyatt Regency Hangzhou. This prominent carving art event in attracts art lovers and collectors throughout China, including high-net-worth individuals. During the Fair, a series of professional seminars will be held to give visitors the chance to enrich their knowledge of collecting and investing in high-end jewelry.

Richemont Reports Widespread Sales Growth Led by Jewelry Sales but Cautions on Future Profits

Cie. Financiere Richemont SA said Wednesday that sales for the five-month period ended August 31 increased 29 percent year-over-year, led by strong growth for all of its brands throughout all regions. At constant exchange rates, sales increased by 35 percent.

However, the company cautions that the rising Swiss franc and uncertain economic conditions make the remainder of the year difficult to predict. In a move to stop the surge of the Swiss franc against other currencies, the Swiss National Bank capped the franc’s rate against the euro at an exchange rate below 1.20 francs to help the country’s exports. The Swiss currency dropped more than 8 percent against the euro Tuesday. It is unclear whether the SNB’s decision played into Richemont’s outlook.

On a region-by-region basis, sales growth in Europe, the company’s largest market, was robust (up 21 percent), reflecting purchases made by local clients and tourists, the luxury goods company said. The Asia-Pacific region continues to lead the way with a 46 percent growth in sales for the period. This stems from sustained consumer confidence in that region and increased investment by the company in its brands (known as Maisons) and distribution networks. Sales growth in the Americas increased a notable 26 percent, year-over-year. Sales in Japan increased 7 percent, despite the aftermath of the natural disasters which struck that country in March.

Retail sales grew 37 percent due to the expansion of the Geneva-based company’s retail networks, particularly in the Asia-Pacific region, and strong growth at the e-commerce site, Net-A-Porter.

The company’s wholesale business increased 22 percent during the five-month period.
 
All brands enjoyed solid growth. Jewelry brands (Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels) led the way with 34 percent growth in sales for the period. Sales at watch brands (Jaeger-LeCoultre, Piaget, IWC, Baume & Mercier, Vacheron Constantin, Officine Panerai, A. Lange & Söhne and Roger Dubuis) grew 28 percent for the period. Montblanc sales increased 10 percent. Sales in a category listed as “Other” (Alfred Dunhill, Chloé, Lancel and Net-A-Porter.Com as well as other smaller brands and watch component manufacturing activities for third parties) increased 24 percent.

The company is also in a joint venture with Ralph Lauren’s watch and jewelry business.

Richemont’s net cash position for the period is 2.6 billion euros ($3.6 billion).

Richemont expects its sales and operating profit for the first six months of this year to be significantly higher than the comparative period.

“Based on the strengthening of the Swiss Franc between March 2011 and today, the Group will incur a significant translation loss on its cash balances,” the company said in a statement. Further, the accounting gain recognized in the comparative period relating to the acquisition of Net-A-Porter of € 101 million will not re-occur. Accordingly, Richemont expects attributable profit to be broadly in line with the prior year despite a significantly higher operating profit.”

Johann Rupert, Richemont executive chairman and Group CEO, added: “The rest of the financial year is difficult to predict. The problems of fiscal deficits generally and Euro zone difficulties in particular are likely to act as a drag on business prospects for companies in the period ahead, especially if the growth markets are affected. To hope for a continuation of the current good trading levels in such circumstances may be over-optimistic. In addition, we must keep in mind the demanding comparative figures against which sales in the coming six months will be measured.

“Moreover, the impact of the Swiss franc’s appreciation against the euro and other major currencies obviously poses a challenge for all Swiss exporters. For Richemont, with a significant production base, our headquarters and many of our Maisons located in Switzerland, the stronger Swiss franc will continue to be negative for our cost of sales and operating expenses, maintaining negative pressure on our margins.”

Centurion Jewelry Design Competition

Centurion is holding its fourth annual Emerging Designers Competition. Six winning jewelry designers will receive a complimentary exhibit at Centurion 2012, the 11th annual Centurion Show. The annual invitation only luxury jewelry trade show will be held Jan. 29-31, 2012, in Scottsdale, Ariz.

The competition is open to all designers, regardless of experiences, formal training or background in jewelry design, as long as they have never before exhibited in a fine jewelry show in the U.S.; have the ability to exhibit at a trade fair; and have the ability to supply high end retailers should they want to purchase the line.

The deadline for entries is October 15. For rules and how to participate, follow this link to the PDF entry form. The form must be completed and e-mailed along with three high resolution images and descriptions (the images may be sent in several emails if more than 3 megs each). Emails should go directly to hh@centurionjewelry.com. Again, the entry deadline for the competition is October 15.

Just in case the link doesn't work, here is the URL: http://www.h2consult.com/Centurion_2012_Emerging_Designers_Competition_Entry_Form.pdf 

The competition is sponsored by Stuller, a manufacturer and distributor of jewelry and jewelry related products based in Lafayette, La.

The Noor Collection from Ivanka Trump Fine Jewelry

Oversized cocktail rings encasing large black onyx gem inside lacy white-gold cages is the cornerstone of the Noor collection.

In a private suite at the Mandalay Bay resort in Las Vegas on a floor dominated by the private suites of the Swiss luxury watch companies, Ivanka Trump Fine Jewelry showcased the Noor collection, as part of Las Vegas Jewelry Week.

Black onyx pendant with 18k white gold and diamonds on silk cord.

The Noor collection, unveiled for the event held during the first week of June, is a line of art-deco style jewels inspired by the sensual transparency of vintage lace, the play of light through its delicate pattern, and the intricate ornamentation of the mosaic and arabesque patterns in Byzantine architecture. The name of the collection is derived from the Arabic word that means “light.”

Mother of pearl with rock crystal overlay center stone with diamonds and black enamel.

The jewelry highlights geometric motifs through the use of enamel, onyx, pearls and white agate with diamonds serving as the foundation of the collection. The materials are set in 18k white or yellow gold.

South Seas pearl cocktail ring with black enamel and diamond scrollwork.

 

Trump said she began the design process for this collection in 2010 while traveling to Morocco, Turkey and Azerbaijan. Oversized cocktail rings encasing large black onyx gems inside lacy white-gold cages, where the stones are visible through the pattern, were a cornerstone of the design aesthetic.

Rock crystal cocktail ring with diamonds and black enamel in 18k gold.

The Ivanka Trump Noor Collection ranges from $1,200 to $50,000 retail prices, with a special one-of-a-kind necklace featuring over 3,000 diamonds valued at $150,000.

Angelina Jolie, Robert Procop Unveil Jewelry Collection for Charity

As reported in December, Angelina Jolie and Robert Procop were teaming up to create a jewelry line with statement gemstones. For the Golden Globes in January Jolie wore a pair of emerald earrings from the collection (pictured), which set off a wave of emeralds and other green gemstones worn by the stars and celebrities on the Oscars red carpet.

Now the duo recently unveiled the collection, “Style of Jolie,” during an invitation only museum quality exhibition at Julien's Auctions in Beverly Hills. All proceeds from the sale of the line will go toward Jolie’s foundation, “Education Partnership for Children of Conflict.”

“What we're showing here is a collection that Angelina and I have been working on for the last nine months or so, building not only a part of her style but real artistic forms using gemstones as a centerpiece,” Procop, the former CEO of Asprey, said in the video below. “But our main mission is helping children in crisis be educating children around the world.”



The collection (individual pieces can be viewed on the Robert Procop Exceptional Jewels website) includes a five-row quartz tablet bracelet, pear-shaped citrine and cushion-cut necklace, and green beryl tablet earrings.

The collection is still available for private viewing at Julien's. Appointments can be made by contacting creativestudio@robertprocop.com.

Kirsten Dunst Poses Nude for Bulgari’s New Ad Campaign

Actress Kirsten Dunst has been out of the spotlight for at least a year but now she’s back in a big way by baring all for a new Bulgari fragrance and jewelry advertisement.

With Florence’s Boboli Gardens as the backdrop, Dunst wears little more than purple fabric, jewels from the Italian luxury jeweler’s new Mediterranean Eden Collection and a large bottle of Mon Jasmin Noir, the company’s new fragrance. She lies seductively with her co-star: a (presumably stuffed) lion. The advertisement campaign was shot by Mert Alas & Marcus Piggott.

You may remember a similar ad campaign with actress Juilanne Moore lying seductively covered with nothing but a handbag, Bulgari jewels and two live lion cubs. An oversized billboard of the ad was slated to run on Doge's Palace overlooking St. Mark's Square in Venice. But the mayor deemed the ad inappropriate for the location.

The Bulgari ad campaign will make its debut in the April issues of fashion magazines and the Mediterranean Eden Collection will be in Bulgari stores worldwide by May, according to media reports. There are no reports of a picture from the new campaign appearing in St. Mark’s Square.

You can view more photographs from the campaign here.

The Return of Marina B Jewelry

Atomo Necklace, one of Marina B's most recognizable designs among jewelry connoisseurs and collectors.

Marina B, the one-time internationally known luxury jewelry brand, has returned under the direction of Windsor Jewelers, a New York City estate jewelry firm.

An official re-launch of the brand was held February 11 at the new Manhattan Marina B showroom (589 Fifth Avenue) where the company’s new jewelry creations were unveiled. The new collection is largely based on the archived pieces and designs of Marina Bulgari, who founded the brand in the mid-1970s. During the 1980s and ’90s, the brand was worn by movie stars like Sophia Loren, and other women of international society and best-dressed lists.

Toupies Pendant Earrings

Windsor Jewelers CEO Paul Lubetsky, a passionate fan of Marina B's designs, acquired a collection of Marina B pieces in order to prepare for the revitalization of the brand.

“This is the most exciting first step I've taken in a long time to re-launch a brand,” Lubetsky said. “The pieces that we've acquired are enduringly chic and contemporary and embody the Marina B look of elegance and distinction.”

Among his acquisitions were hundreds of original sketches from Marina B herself. “It didn't take me long to realize that I'd stumbled upon a treasure, something that's hard to come by in this day and age,” Lubetsky said.

Twin ring

The new Marian B pieces were manufactured in accordance with the brand’s original standards and produced by many of the original craftsmen, Lubetsky said. All of the jewelry is made with 18k gold, with many featuring precious gemstones and pavé diamonds. Retail prices begin at $5,000 with one-of-a-kind pieces being more expensive.

Marina Bulgari, who lives in Monte Carlo, hails from one of the world's famous jewelry dynasties, Bulgari, and created jewelry for the firm until the mid-1970s. After the death of her father, she started Marina B, in Geneva.

Say Love with Ladybug Jewelry on Valentine’s Day

Maybe it’s a little too late for present giving on Valentine’s Day, but just in case you missed the unforgettable day this may be the way to save your relationship.

The Aaron Basha Lady Bug Collection of rings, earrings, necklaces and bracelets features playful designs surrounding the spotted Ladybug. The Madison Avenue retailer and jewelry designer says these bugs are a “symbol of good luck and good wishes.”

The collection was on display at the Centurion 2011 luxury jewelry show in Tucson. It is available at the Aaron Basha flagship boutique in Manhattan, and Aaron Basha fine jewelry retail partners worldwide.

The Techique and Beauty of Garavelli Jewelry

Elisabetta Molina Valerani is obviously proud of the heritage of Garavelli, the Valenza, Italy-based jewelry company. Started in 1920, the family-owned firm is now managed by the fourth generation and has well-known reputation of creating beautiful, quality products.

But Valerani, speaking with JNN at Centurion 2011 luxury jewelry show, said she is most proud of the company’s new products, which combine classic designs with modern techniques.

For example, the rings, necklaces and bracelets of Garavelli’s Coil collection (above), use triangular-shaped settings to house rows of colored diamonds (including natural blue diamonds). The result is that the 18k gold rings are flexible. 

Meanwhile, the earrings, pendants, bracelets and necklaces of the company’s Eternity Collection (left), features diamond pave that covers 18k white, yellow and rose gold shaped in circle and heart-shaped patterns.

The multicolored palette includes diamonds, sapphires and other precious stones, thus creating limitless variations.

Italian Craftsmanship and Design from Antonini

Well-crafted gold, diamond highlights and colorful gems are among the hallmarks of new collections from Italian jewelry company, Antonini.

The company introduced its Extraordinaire collection during the Centurion 2011 jewelry show. The gold earrings, cocktail rings and necklaces are embellished with pavé diamonds and gemstones. There were two 18k white gold rings from the collection on display—each centered with a large sapphire, a five-ct. pink and an 8.7 blue. The stone on each ring was surrounded by diamond pave patterns that fell irregularly over the gold like water. It’s a classic design with modern touches.

K. Wolfgang Möckel, the company’s U.S. representative, said the collection was designed to complement its recently released Anniversary collection, created for the company’s 90th anniversary. One of the pieces from the collection on display was a rose gold necklace and pendant, highlighted with a spattering of champaign diamonds.

Left, necklace and pendant from Anniversary collection. Above right, Bangle from Milano collection and rings from Extraordinaire.

A bangle of interlocking rose gold strands on display was part the company’s Milano collection, which honors the city’s rich architectural history. The city is also the home of Antonini.

Centurion Names Six Emerging Design Contest Winners

Dusty Angles by Nuttapon (Kenny) Yongkiettakul

The Centurion 2011 jewelry show has named six winners of Centurion’s Emerging Designer Contest during its opening dinner held Saturday. The winners are:

* William Belack, Belack Jewelry Design, United States

* Pamela Harari, Pamela Harari Jewelry Design, Israel

* Amitai Kav, Amitai Kav, Israel

* Valerie Ostenak, VOSTENAKstudios, USA

* JJ Williams, JJ Number 8, USA

* Nuttapon (Kenny) Yongkiettakul, Thailand

“We are very proud to be able to find and introduce these amazing emerging designers to the prestige jewelry industry,” said Centurion President Howard Hauben. “In addition to winning the competition, we offer the top retailers in the country the chance to meet these up‐and‐comers and view their award winning pieces.”

None of the winning designers has ever exhibited in a US Fine Jewelry trade show prior to Centurion 2011. Winning pieces were chosen by a popular vote of prestige retail jewelers in late 2010 based on their combination of uniqueness and salability. 

William Belack
Belack Jewelry Design 

www.belackjewelry.com

United States

786‐553‐4003

william@belackinc.com

Hand‐made jewelry using a conceptual design process, fusing natural stones along with ancient ideas and workmanship in the art of jewelry making. Pieces are created to fill a narrative within our design approach.

  

Pamela Harari

Pamela Harari Jewelry Design 

www.pamelaharari.com

Israel, +972‐523276319

pharari@netvision.net.il

Harari has been using different techniques, unusual rough materials for 28 years. Brought up in Leeds in the North of England, Pamela studied jewelry design at the Jacob Cramer College of Art, and then went on to do an apprenticeship in Paris before emigrating to Israel. Today, she lives and designs from her home in Kadima a small farming town in Israel. When choosing stones, she prefers the ones with little imperfections for that “little something” that makes them unique, and perfect in themselves. The idea is to use an element from nature or history and through the stone, color and cut, design the jewel. It starts by finding an exceptional stone, developing a design original in content, and then producing the piece ready for setting and finish. Her jewelry collection is created from pieces made with a mélange of materials of high carat gold and rare hand cut gems.

Amitai Kav 

www.amitaikav.com

Israel, +972‐2‐6794749

kavkatan@inter.net.il

Original and personal design in gold, inspired by the region ‐ the Egyption,  the Bedoin and Oriental elements. Born in 1941, Kibbutz Negba, Israel,  Amitai Kav is a self‐taught jeweler. His work is on display now at Mobilia  Gallery, Cambridge, Mass., Jewish Museum, New York City, Skirball Cultural  Center, Los Angeles, Luvaton–Kav Gallery, Jerusalem, and Shuki  Freiman Gallery, Jerusalem.

Valerie Ostenak 

VOSTENAKstudio

www.valerieostenak.com

USA, 928‐646‐7078

valerio@vostenakstudios.com

VOSTENAKstudios, a sole proprietorship, is focused on design of bespoke sculptural jewelry for discerning collectors, with some collections able to extend into high‐end design limited production markets. The use of steel speaks to the customer’s desire for an alternative to high karat gold while maintaining an exclusive and creative look, and incorporates those elements  they are familiar with: e.g., 14K, pearls, Swarovski crystals. Design style is organic and flowing. Inspired by the sensuous movement of roots, vines, and water, and the timeless seasonal changes of trees.

 JJ Williams

JJ Number8

www.jjnumber8.com

USA, 949‐636‐6975

jj@jjnumber8.com 

JJ Number 8 is fresh, graceful and elegant. It is a beautiful and inspiring collection. The number 8 symbolizes good luck and happiness. JJ Number 8’s jewelry has a powerful allure and its brand has a magnetic connection with women.

Nuttapon (Kenny) Yongkiettakul (top photo)

Thailand, +662‐243‐2446

nuttapon.y@gmail.com

With the contemporary approach to jewelry design, the collection displays the beauty of nature and the art within the irregularity and randomness of it. The collection harmonizes modern structures and ideas together with the uniqueness of shapes and patterns.