$2 Million Richard Mille RM 56-02 Sapphire Tourbillon

Cutting edge watchmaker, Richard Mille, has introduced the RM 56-02 Sapphire Tourbillon with a new movement. It will be unveiled at the Watches & Wonders event in Hong Kong in late September but here is an early look at the luxury brand’s latest example of extreme horology. It is reportedly priced at just over $2 million and is limited to 10 examples worldwide.

This new piece incorporates the same sapphire case design and sapphire baseplate, bridges and third wheel of its previous two models, the RM 56 and RM 56-01, and took cues from the mechanical architecture of the cabled suspended movement in its highly acclaimed RM 27-01 Rafael Nadal. 

The baseplate of the RM 56-02, created from grade 5 titanium, is entirely suspended within the sapphire watchcase by a single braided cable of 0.35mm thickness, woven within a system of four pulleys on posts at the movement’s corners and another six pulleys placed along the movement’s periphery. The tension of the cable is controlled by a miniature ratchet at 9 o’clock. This entire cable unit is attached to a separate indicator located below 12 o’clock so the cable tension is easily seen.

Other parts of the movement have also been optimized for transparency. In this case Richard Mille’s engineers have added to the previous use of sapphire movement parts in the Rafael Nadal watch with a new design of a winding barrel bridge, tourbillon and center bridges in sapphire. 

The three-part ergonomically curving sapphire case of the RM 56-02, designed to hug the wrist, is milled and ground from blocks of solid sapphire by Stettler in Lyss, Switzerland. It took 40 days of 24/7 continuous machining in order to produce one case followed by 400 hours of machining and finishing for the different movement bridges.

The case of the RM 56-02, with anti-glare protection on both front and back bezels, is waterproof to 30 meters due to two transparent nitrile O-rings assembled with 24 spline screws in grade 5 titanium. The partially translucent strap created from Aerospace Nano by Biwi SA, exclusively for Richard Mille, provides a silky and almost organic responsiveness to the skin that complements the ergonomic attributes of the RM 56-02 on the wrist, the company said. 

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Daryl Wickstrom To Lead Sotheby’s International Jewelry And Watch Divisions

Sotheby’s on Friday named longtime executive Daryl Wickstrom as international managing director of Sotheby’s Worldwide Jewelry and Watch Divisions. In this newly-created role, he will be tasked with expanding activity and growing sales in these areas, which experienced record results in recent years, the New York-based multinational company said in a statement. 

Wickstrom will work closely with David Bennett, Lisa Hubbard and Quek Chin Yeow, the company’s three Jewelry chairmen, Tim Bourne, worldwide head of Watches, and Patti Wong, chairman of Sotheby’s Diamonds, the company said. He will oversee activities in North America, Europe and Asia, as well as the company’s expanding Sotheby’s Diamonds retail business and related private sales activity.

The announcement was made by Bruno Vinciguerra, Sotheby’s chief operating officer. 

Wickstrom joined Sotheby’s in 1996 and was appointed executive VP and deputy chairman, Asia, in July 2008. He was instrumental in developing the growth strategy in Asia and particularly Sotheby’s expansion in China. During his time in this role, total sales in Asia surpassed $1 billion in 2011.

From 2002 through 2008 Wickstrom served as managing director of Sotheby’s Global Auction Division. During his tenure, he orchestrated many significant single-owner sales and helped launch of Sotheby’s Diamonds retail venture in 2005, the company said.  

In 2013, Sotheby’s saw its highest-ever annual totals for its jewelry and watch categories, with worldwide Jewelry sales achieving $529 million, and worldwide Watch sales reaching $97 million. This spring, Sotheby’s set new benchmark prices for: any jadeite jewel and any jewel by Cartier (the Hutton-Mdivani Necklace, $27.4 million); any yellow diamond and any jewel by Graff (the Graff Vivid Yellow, $16.3 million); and any ruby (29.62-Carat Oval Burmese Ruby, $7.3 million). In addition, world auction records were set this spring at Sotheby’s for several iconic models by Patek Philippe: any Ref. 5207P ($867,000); any contemporary time-only watch by the firm ($737,000); any Celestial model ($545,000); and any Ref. 5033 ($509,000).

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Lalique Opens First Jewelry Boutique In A Century And Unveils New Jewelry Collection

Entrance of the new Lalique jewelry boutique in Paris at 20 rue de la Paix.

It took over a century for Lalique to return to its roots and did so in a big way.

Lalique Soleil de Gaïa Necklace consisting of three rows of hematite beads (86 517ctw.), two rows of 82 bezel-set blue sapphires (11.13ctw.), green sapphires (30 4.39 ctw.) and 16 yellow sapphires (2.28 ctw.), set in yellow gold. In addition, two Scarabée motifs in yellow gold paved with one 160 diamonds (5.66 ctw.), 108 black spinels (4.16 ctw.), two hematites (4.43ctw.), four triplets of cabochon-cut opal (14.49 ctw.) and engraved white mother-of-pearl, lacquer. The piece can used for five different looks.

The French luxury recently opened its first jewelry-dedicated boutique since its founder opened the first store nearly 110 years ago.

Lalique chandelier made of 2,500 Gourmande rings serves as the centerpiece for its new jewelry-dedicated boutique in Paris.

The 860-square-foot fine jewelry showcase is in the heart of Paris at 20 rue de la Paix, near where the firm’s founder, René Lalique, opened his first jewelry store in 1905. He later went on to specialize in glasswork. In addition to jewelry, the company is now known for its crystal and glasswork in uses ranging from decorative and functional items to large works of art, and for its perfumes.

Lalique Soleil de Gaïa Rrng

The 430-square-foot-space displays some 200 pieces from the brand’s fine jewelry and high jewelry collections, as well as a selection of iconic pieces such as the Gourmande ring and the Mascottes cufflinks. Bridal jewelry will be shown at a dedicated space nearby.

First floor of the Lalique jewelry boutique.

If a customer wanted to see more Gourmande rings he or she would simply have to look up where a chandelier sparkles with the light of 2,500 Gourmande rings.

Lalique Soleil de Gaïa pendant

One level below, a 430-square-foot area serves as a private salon in an intimate setting reflecting the 1900 World’s Fair. Here, the brand’s crystal craftsmanship and its latest collaborative designs, featuring limited edition pieces such as the Lalique-Parmigiani Fleurier table clocks, crystal perfume bottles and the Caran d’Ache line of pens, will be on display.

VIP room of the Lalique jewelry boutique

In a tribute to René Lalique, the store, designed by the Pustetto Agency, reflects both Art Nouveau and Art Deco themes. Its Art-Nouveau inspired lines are extended to the design of the wall displays and staircase that leads to the private salon with Aster panels in Lalique crystal decorated with a plant motif in micro-relief (pictured below).

Lalique celebrated the new opening this week with the release of a new Art Deco jewelry collection, Soleil de Gaïa. The company said the opening of the new shop seals the resurrection of the brand’s two-year return to the rebirth of fine jewelry.

Jewelry display in the VIP room.

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Record-Breaking Henry Graves ‘Supercomplication’ To Be Sold At Sotheby's

The Henry Graves Supercomplication, Patek Philippe, 1933

The watch that set a worldwide auction record 15 years ago will return to the block in November at Sotheby’s Geneva sale of Important Watches November 14. The Henry Graves “Supercomplication” has an estimate in excess of CHF 15 million ($16.8 million).

The Henry Graves Supercomplication made by Patek Philippe in 1933 is the most complicated watch ever made completely by human hand, Sotheby’s said. It is also considered to be the world’s most famous watch. It’s reappearance on the market after its record sale will coincide with Patek Philippe’s 175th anniversary celebrations. 

Sotheby’s first sold the timepiece in New York in December 1999, with an estimate of $3-5 million. It sparked an extended bidding war and sold for a record-breaking $11 million, becoming the most expensive timepiece ever sold at auction.

“The list of superlatives which can be attached to this icon of the 20th century is truly extraordinary,” Tim Bourne, Sotheby’s worldwide head of Watches, and Daryn Schnipper, chairman of Sotheby’s Watch Division, said in a joint statement. “Indisputably the ‘Holy Grail’ of watches, The Henry Graves Supercomplication combines the Renaissance ideal of the unity of beauty and craftsmanship with the apogee of science.”

In 1925, Patek Philippe was commissioned by Henry Graves, a prominent New York banker, to produce the most complicated watch in the world. The product of three years of research and five years of effort it resulted in a gold openface minute repeating chronograph clockwatch with Westminster chimes. Among its features are a perpetual calendar, moon phases, sidereal time, power reserve, and indications for time of sunset and sunrise and the night sky of New York City. With a total of 24 horological complications, The Graves watch retained the title of the world’s most complicated watch for 56 years and even then was only surpassed by technicians working with the aid of computer-assisted machines.

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Two Young Italian Jewelry Brands Bring Bold New Designs to the US

Italian Design Ltd. Snow White Red Apple Ring

Even the Italian jewelry industry needs new blood to bring innovative ideas to its storied design and craftsmanship tradition. Two new companies have heeded the call and more recently brought their new designs to the US by way of Las Vegas jewelry week.

Italian Design Ltd. and Qayten J.E.T. have little in common except a desire to bring a modern approach to the great tradition of Italian jewelry craftsmanship and design.

Italian Design Ltd. Snow White Red Apple Ring opened to reveal Snow White.

Silvia and Alberto Prandoni, the sibling founders of Italian Design Ltd. are proud of their Italian design heritage. However, they are equally influenced by traditional bespoke and limited editions jewelry created by international luxury jewelry houses, such as Bulgari, Van Cleef & Arpels and Tiffany & Co. The four-year-old company produces jewelry with innovative designs and precious materials (particularly colored gems) that tell intimate stories.

Italian Design Ltd. Lava Earrings made with irregular-shaped fire opals.

“We want to go back to haute jewelry design choosing stones and materials of absolute quality, interpreted with an original design that will adapt to and reflect individual personalities,” said Alberto Prandoni, the company’s CEO. “We create unique pieces or a limited number of up to eight pieces. We propose color variations and modifications to perfectly satisfy the desires of those who turn to us for our customization capabilities.”

There's also a good bit of whimsy and versatility incorporated into their jewelry. Some pieces are designed to be worn several ways. For example, the top of the “Snow White Red Apple Ring” opens to reveal Snow White. The ring can then be converted to a necklace and other uses. 

Italian Design Ltd.  Circus Ring can be worn multiple ways.

“We design rings, bracelets or necklaces as if they were living objects with their own personal stories,” he added.

“Our approach enables us to reach the individual and to interpret his or her requests,” Silvia Prandoni said. “It is certainly a less direct path but one that gives great satisfaction.” 

Qayten Paisley Collection earrings

Qayten is a company I have written about previously. I first met the founders at Baselworld 2013. It specializes in using modern technology to create contemporary three-dimensional pieces that are both beautiful and easy to wear. In fact the name defines the company. Qayten, is Sanskrit meaning “origin” and the abbreviation J.E.T., stands for “Jewellery Estetica Technology.”

Maddalena Allegretti, marketing and sales manager, says this means its creations “fuse aesthetics, technical innovation and forward-thinking design while honoring the traditional techniques at the heart of jewelry making.”

Qayten TT Bracelet made with rare, ethically sourced Indonesian wood.

The Bologna-based jewelry brand uses all types of materials, from 18k gold and platinum, diamonds and colored gems, natural Akoya and South Seas pearls; and even with rare woods that are ethically sourced.

“Our jewelry is modern now and for years to come,” she says. “It’s sophisticated with high perceived value, high quality of materials, including rare collectible materials.”

Qayten diamond Bologna necklace.

Founded in 2012 the firm’s first trip to the US turned out to be quite fruitful in terms of exposure. Its Bologna necklace received two honors at the Couture Jewelry Show in Las Vegas: First Place in the “Diamonds above $20,000 Retail” category and First Runner Up in the “Debuting” category.

“The calling cards of this brand are invisible connections, en tremblant settings, she says. “This is jewelry that demands to be touched, turned over in the hands and admired as much for its technical mastery as it’s visual.”

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De Beers CEO Talks Up Forevermark

Diamond drop earrings by Slane with 9.24 round brilliant "exceptional" diamond and 8.14 round brilliant "exceptional" diamond set in platinum.

Diamond brands are not new and in the past decade the number of brands has grown substantially. The effectiveness of diamond branding has been debated in the jewelry industry for just as long. As opposed to an LVMH handbag or Gucci shoes where the workmanship and logos are easy to see; a diamond’s attributes are extremely difficult to see with the naked eye.

The recent announcement that the Hearts on Fire diamond brand is being acquired by the Hong Kong-based retail giant, Chow Tai Fook, for $150 million, shows that at least some brands have real value. The “world’s largest pure-play jeweler” said it will sell the diamond brand through its retail network of more than 2,000 points-of-sale in the Hong Kong, Macau and Mainland China markets.

"Center of My Universe" fancy yellow diamond earrings by Premier Gem set in 18k white gold, 10.05 ctw.

Needless to say Philippe Mellier, De Beers Group CEO, is a believer in brands. Of course part of his job is to promote De Beers diamond brand, Forevermark. To do this he made a rare appearance in the US during Las Vegas jewelry week to help promote a new Forevermark marketing and advertising campaign for the US market.

“There is a demand for branded diamonds and discerning customers are looking for the very best with the name of De Beers behind it to certify that they are the shiniest, the best and what is very, very important is that they are responsibly sourced,” he said.

"PURE Collection" by Precision Set six prong solitaire ring set in platinum, 1.50 ctw.

Each Forevermark diamond has a unique identification number and the Forevermark icon inscribed on the diamond. The inscription is 1/5000th the depth of a human hair. Obviously it cannot be seen by the naked eye. All diamonds over a half-carat also comes with a Forevermark grading report.

“A discerning customer knows that the diamond he or she bought has been inscribed with the Forevermark and logo and the number that makes that diamond very unique and traceable,” he said.

All of the diamonds comes from nine De Beers mines (seven in southern Africa and two in Canada). De Beers’ hold over the diamond industry from mining to market isn’t what it used to be, but it still sells its diamonds through what are known as sights. Sightholders (diamond manufacturers and dealers) are approved by De Beers and are invited to buy diamond rough from its mines. The sightholders have the option of purchasing a box of rough without knowing what is inside based on a price set by De Beers.

"Center of My Universe" double cushion halo fancy yellow diamond ring by H.J. Namdar set in 18k white gold 4.27 ctw.

Among the sightholders are diamond companies that are approved to receive boxes with what Mellier described as containing the top five percent of rough diamonds from De Beers in terms of quality. The 30 diamond companies can do what they want with the rough, including the 5 percent gems. However, if they wish to sell them as Forevermark diamonds, either lose or in jewelry, they will need to return them to De Beers to have them inscribed.

“They are buying these boxes because they are suitable for Forevermark but they don’t always cut and polish them for Forevermark. They can do it for all of their applications,” he said. When they are cut and polished they send them to us for engraving and inscription and they all come with a Forevermark certificate.”

Diamond riviera necklace by Rahaminov set in platinum, 55.26 ctw.

The Forevermark brand was first launched in Hong Kong, China and Japan in 2008. It is now in 1,350 retail doors in 29 countries. Forevermark came to the US in 2011 and now is available at 400 doors. Mellier speaks with pride of the brand’s market reach and its recent milestone of inscribing its one millionth diamond. But sales are something that he didn’t discuss.

Mellier’s rare presence in the US was part of a big push by Forevermark during the annual tradeshows in Las Vegas. It included the first look of its latest US multi-media advertising campaign (“Promise”) that will launch in September and bringing in Waris Ahluwalia, a successful jewelry designer who is perhaps better known as an actor in Wes Anderson films. He designed a jewelry collection with Forevermark diamonds. In addition, throughout the Las Vegas jewelry trade fairs there were displays of Forevermark diamond jewelry created by the brand’s 30 or so diamond manufacturing partners. Mellier said Forevermark is looking for more partners.

Bridal jewelry will account for a little more than half of all Forevermark product, which I found surprising because De Beers pretty much invented the modern bridal jewelry industry in the US. Mellier said romance and emotion will continue to be the focus of the campaign and the jewelry but it will include milepost events throughout one’s life.

“We have all sorts of other jewelry because a lot of customers are repeats,” he said. “You only have one bridal but there are birthdays, wedding anniversaries and for this repeat purchase it’s obviously not bridal.”

The marketing and advertising campaign is designed to hit the target customer seven times, Mellier said. However, he admits that it will never be as prolific as its “A Diamond is Forever” campaign.

“We are unfortunately smaller than before,” he said. “At one time we had 80 percent of the world market. We are still by value the biggest company in the world with slightly more than a third of the world market so we spend according to our need and our volume. Forevermark is what we really want to focus on.”

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Baume & Mercier Reveals ‘Promesse’ Ladies Watch Collection in New York

Actress Jessica Pare introduces the Promesse collection while Alain Zimmerman, Baume & Mercier’s CEO, and Rudy Chavez, Baume & Mercier’s North American president, look on. Behind them are the padlocks where guests were able to make a “promise” to themselves. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

Baume & Mercier unveiled its first new ladies watch collection in nearly 10 years during an event in New York attended by Swiss watch brand’s top officials along with several celebrities, including actress Jessica Pare of Mad Men.

Baume & Mercier Promesse 10157 in stainless steel with a drapé guilloché dial.

The company unveiled the “Promesse” timepiece collection during the June 18 event at Gotham Hall, also attended by Star Jones and Supermodel Emme. The line consist of 14 pieces in two sizes, 30 and 34mm, and are available in a Swiss-made quartz or automatic movement that can be viewed through a transparent caseback. The collection is inspired by the unconventional watches the company created for ladies in the 1970s.

The automatic movement.

The watches combine different decorative and functional elements. All of the pieces employ an oval bezel that surround a round dial, the signature nod to one of its1970 models. Most of the models use a drapé (draped) guilloché design for its dials while others employ colorful mother-of-pearl. All of the dials also use Roman numerals at the 12, 3, 6 and 9 o’clock positions. Most use diamond markers on the remaining indices. Diamonds, mother-of-pearl, or red gold (creating a two-tone effect) are also used to further enhance the bezels. The watch straps are available in stainless steel, a two-tone combination (stainless steel and plated red gold), white satin, or black alligator.

Baume & Mercier Promesse 10166 with black mother-of-pearl black dial with a “drapé guilloché” and 61 diamonds.

There are enough subtle variations in its 14 models to create several options for women who purchase this watch. The Promesse (French for Promise ) is being marketed to self-purchasing women, inspiring them “to hold a promise close to their heart while celebrating their unique individuality through their own timepiece.” This notion was reinforced at a June 18 event in New York marking the US release of the timepieces. Guests were given a padlock and asked to inscribe their own personal promise before locking it to a metal stage prop modeled after the romantic bridges in Paris.

Baume & Mercier Promesse-10163 combines steel and red gold-capped steel with a silver-colored “drapé guilloché dial.

In addition to the celebrities, Baume & Mercier’s global CEO, Alain Zimmerman and North American president, Rudy Chavez were in attendance. Pare wore the Promesse 10160, an oval, mother of pearl, steel bracelet watch with 30 diamonds set on the bezel (pictured below).

The watches will be available in September at select retailers nationwide and online, starting at $1,900.

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